Rear brake pads need changed 3k miles

[Car00071]

That sounds way hotter than I could even get the rears on track with very hard and very late braking. Something sounds off in your scenario... Can you drive along normally for 5 miles and hit a bit of stop and go, then measure your rotor temps each side? They shouldn't be hot. Maybe 210F tops, even with vsa on. If they're pushing 350+ there are dragging issues.

EBC yellows in general i don't like. I haven't used an ebc pad I'd write anything positive about honestly, with a couple of their race pads as the only exceptions. The yellows like a moderate temp range, but they give up noise, dust, and wear for decent bite and low cost. Comparatively, the ferodo ds2500 and Porterfield r4 are quieter, more bitey when hot, and wear better, but even more dusty and more expensive. For street driving I'd honestly recommend some form of nicer ceramic compound, like the brembo or akebono street stuff, or even something like the carbotech or gloc fleet or autox pads. Their autox pads are the ebc yellow equivalents but they tend to be more rotor and life friendly.

Yeah I would like to buy a thermometer gun and try it. I run paragon p3 in the front and wanted to get those but they were a week out and my rear pads were basically down to metal last time. I don’t think they are dragging anymore since I can’t hear or smell them. The pad is low so maybe it has backed off now? Feels like it could be an EPB thing.

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[boosted_canoe]

Stoplight racers are the hardest on brakes. On track, we usually take a full lap or half lap for cool down where you don't touch the brakes at all, you just coast around corners until you get to paddock and then leave the car in gear with no parking brake. A few mins later you move the car a couple feet to move the pad.

This isn't necessary on the street, but if you drive it hard or stop hard in stop and go traffic, its better for the brakes to get a bit of cool down time through slow driving and easy braking before parking.

In general, these cars seem to have unusually high rear wear and it's not just vsa. I would expect rears of this size to typically have a life of 50-80k mi, so 10-20k is a far cry from "normal" wear for any car. I personally wonder if the epb is maybe just too aggressive from factory, but who knows.

maybe it's the hill-start/traffic-stop assist features combined with Agile Handling assist or whatever they call it. i definitely notice brake drag when taking off with the trafffic assist button enabled.

 

[koatic]

I am at 11k and down to about 2mm on stock rears with two track days. Paragon p3 upfront also down to about 5mm. Already ordered dixcel pads all around. I don’t think you should be going through a rear set at 3k. Am curious as well if you having an issue with the parking brake motors not fully disengaging. Please let us know what you find out

 

[Krazydan19]

Looks like I’m in the market too. 7k miles. What are the pads to get ? Lower dust? Crazy oil can out last rear pads!

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Out of curiosity, for you folks with brakes wearing out quickly, what does the brake fluid look like? Have you done a bleed by chance?

I ask because my factory fill looked 5 years old...

 

[StingertimeNC]

Do you think old nasty fluid would accelerate the wear?

I've changed mine and bled twice in the last 12 months. I have about 6.6k miles on the car after a year and have been running Hawk HPS 5.0 rear pads for the last 10 months, including 6 track days. Although, I'm on the slower side of track drivers. Outside of the track I'm pretty gentle on the car.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Looks like I’m in the market too. 7k miles. What are the pads to get ? Lower dust? Crazy oil can out last rear pads!

I think I would go with Paragon P3 pads all around if you're not tracking. More aggressive than stock but no more dust than oem pads in my experience. I'm running them on the front right now.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Do you think old nasty fluid would accelerate the wear?

I've changed mine and bled twice in the last 12 months. I have about 6.6k miles on the car after a year and have been running Hawk HPS 5.0 rear pads for the last 10 months, including 6 track days. Although, I'm on the slower side of track drivers. Outside of the track I'm pretty gentle on the car.

It can. If there are bubbles or sediment impeding some of the fluid flow to the front calipers, it would put more cimparative brake pressure at the rear. It would have to be a longer term problem and isn't particularly likely. Honestly, with how filthy my fluid was, I was actually concerned when I had the yellow "brake" light pop up on track. It's why I mention it, since you can't rule something stupid like that out.

 

[Krazydan19]

I think I would go with Paragon P3 pads all around if you're not tracking. More aggressive than stock but no more dust than oem pads in my experience. I'm running them on the front right now.

Do you say no dust? Or no worse dust ?

 

[StingertimeNC]

Dust is equal to or less than OEM pads, with the Paragon P3's.

 

[dockleryxk]

Out of curiosity, for you folks with brakes wearing out quickly, what does the brake fluid look like? Have you done a bleed by chance?

I ask because my factory fill looked 5 years old...

For real? That's rough

 

[Victorofhavoc]

For real? That's rough

For real... Mountains of sediment in the reservoir and all. Spent 2-3 trips to the dealer where they were in the area and never noticed either... I found it for track day prep.

https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/back-on-track.52484/post-862759

 

[Car00071]

I am at 11k and down to about 2mm on stock rears with two track days. Paragon p3 upfront also down to about 5mm. Already ordered dixcel pads all around. I don’t think you should be going through a rear set at 3k. Am curious as well if you having an issue with the parking brake motors not fully disengaging. Please let us know what you find out

Got my rear pads, rotors and rear left caliper changed. They found that my rear left caliper was "stuck" and "hanging up" which caused it to wear the pads premature. A little confused because both sides wore down fast, not just the rear left side. Maybe it caused the parking brake to not calibrate properly when my pads were last changed. Car feels faster but could be placebo. I used to previously hear them squealing when driving with no brake application but no longer hear them.

 

[koatic]

Got my rear pads, rotors and rear left caliper changed. They found that my rear left caliper was "stuck" and "hanging up" which caused it to wear the pads premature. A little confused because both sides wore down fast, not just the rear left side. Maybe it caused the parking brake to not calibrate properly when my pads were last changed. Car feels faster but could be placebo. I used to previously hear them squealing when driving with no brake application but no longer hear them.

Thanks for the update. First time I have heard parking brake sticking on ITS

 

[Car00071]

Thanks for the update. First time I have heard parking brake sticking on ITS

Yep, just speculation. Not sure what exactly was happening to cause it to wear so fast.

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