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It could be turned off in the settings under keyless access in the head unit also

I’ve been able to use the Acura app to lock the car with the keys in it. Did it on accident one time without realizing the keys had slipped out my pocket. Panicked then realize I could unlock it with the app lol

If you do it through the cluster it’s update all or nothing. If I can recall you can reset selected items through the head unit under vehicle settings and maintenance info. I always just do it with a scan tool. Seeing how it was your first service I assume it was just a A1 service which oil...

I haven’t tried using ktuner to read codes but I’m pretty sure it only reads check engine light codes, you would need a scanner that could read all the modules in the car to access TPMS stuff

Interesting that it flagged all tires, it should have only flagged the one (unless you lowered all tires under 27psi). What is it that is popping up that you are clearing ? You should not have to clear anything for the warnings to clear. All you need is the tire pressure to be above 27psi (have...

Light came on, but still not showing psi on the cluster ?

Release the air in the tire under 27psi see if the low tire light comes on for that wheel. if it comes on sensor is working and transmitting psi to the BCM and BCM isn’t telling the cluster the tire pressure or if the low tire light doesn’t comes on than either the BCM hasn’t memorized the...

With the creation of the type r and now the type s it has severely hindered Honda making bigger engines because unless the type r or s see bigger engines or higher hp figures. They will not create any new engine or drivetrain that will come remotely close to those hp numbers since it will cut...

It’s a regular lead acid battery, not AGM

Try to find a bidirectional scan tool and run the injector test. Or watch your short and long fuel trims see if it’s running lean. First clues of bad injectors.

Had my CF spoiler replaced about a year ago for that issue. When I took it in I mentioned it the service advisor and he already knew what I was talking about. They just had to send pictures for warranty approval and they replaced it for me. It’s been a year now with the new one and no issue with...

You shouldn’t be charged any fee at all, it would all fall under warranty and be free of charge unless you were the cause of something or your car is salvaged.

Might be a comms issue with the temp/blend door actuator or the actuator itself

For the CVT’s (shares same trim piece), to put the car in neutral if the vehicle is dead. Emergency neutral slot

Have you tried removing the spacers and seeing if the clicking goes away?

Happy TG! Which ones are permanent or current, and the can network ones might be when you had the module disconnected but ignition on. Or PM me the report so I can have the full scan

I’m away from my work computer so won’t be able to do much, but for shits and giggles.. to rule out any stupid setting preventing you from initializing your sensors. Do a vehicle setting’s reset from the radio

When testing the rear make sure all connectors and module is disconnected at all components, same when testing the front sensors. Right Rear Corner Sensor Connector: 3: is your communication line (have 1 test lead connected here and the other at right rear center sensor connector #2, Ohms...

For the rears try placing the cars in reverse and see if you get the 12v while using the ground (16). next step might be tedious, but you gotta check out each individual sensor and see if they’re getting the 12 V to be sure edit: I dont see any indication whether the sensors are ground switched...

If there's no data being transmitted when you move something closer or further away then I would verify power and grounds at the module and then at the individual sensors. As an added check I would verify the connection from the sensors to the module by Ohms checking the wires, just to rule...