I think there is one big factor everyone is overlooking-brake vectoring. The car uses the rear brakes to help rotate around corners which leads to excessive wear in the rear (and also the superb handling everyone raves about). This is well documented on the R and has to be the same for the S.
Personally I don't bother with bondo either and use 2 coats of the paint I've selected to match my wheels.
I use a little mouse sander and progressively work from rough to fine grades, usually ending with 2000 or something like that. It gets it pretty smooth and ready for paint.
That being...
Honestly, it might just be about the easiest mod to do. Go ahead and get a spare A pillar clip in case of breakage (one may have come with your harness) and it's basically risk free as well.
Well, it's finally time I come back and close the loop on this. About a year ago, my A Spec was totaled, but luckily I was fine. I mourned that car for months and refused come back here and revisit that day. Because of the car market last winter and other life circumstances, I elected to find...
100% hogwash. If the car is rated for dot 4 (which they seem to admit), any properly rated dot 4 brake fluid will not invalidate the warranty. These dealers openly flaunt moss-magnuson.
They will fit. The question is why? They are pretty much the same exact wheel right down to weight. Save up and buy some lighter aftermarket wheels for the track.
The PRL mount NVH are minimal at most.
Your problem was clearly caused by a faulty OEM mount....what's to say that any replacement OEM mount won't fail in similar fashion?
Personally I'd rather put in an aftermarket so I wouldn't have to worry.
I'm not sure what to tell you on the switch. The part number in my thread is the exact part number I ordered from JDM yamato, and in fact the correct switch showed up in my mail a few weeks later. I just went back and checked the original order email and it lists that part number.
When i go...
i can confirm, the A spec tech does not have the needed chip in the driver's switch assembly. (or at least mine doesn't). A fact i was unaware of when I started my little journey. This necessitated sourcing the correct window switch assembly, which in turn pushed up my costs to the point that...
Well, its worth popping yours open to double check. From my understanding sometimes Honda/Acura will pick parts off the shelf depending on what's available. It's very easy and you never know.
Also, I saw some discussion above about the reverse tilt feature on the tech package. Be advised that...
Wow. You learn something new everyday. Sure enough, with my mirror switch on R, and in reverse, my passenger side mirror dips. However, it doesn't automatically go back when I take it out of reverse which makes this feature a lot less useful, IMO. 🤷♀️
As far as wiring goes once I get both...
My car uses the same 14 pin connector on both sides; the drivers side uses 8 of those 14 spots, while while the passenger side uses 12 spots. Interesting that you should mention the reverse tilt thing. I'm not positive I've ever actually seen it work. I've got some testing to do.
How many...
@akoza
The good news is that mikstore was fairly responsive and I've got a reply.
They bad news is that they seem convinced that my problem is due to mine being an acura, and they do not guarantee fit with acura (only honda). Well, we know that's not true because the same kit worked fine...
Yeah I thought about sperating the motor from the housing assembly to swap them but that's a no go unfortunately
I agree my problem is one of two possibilities
1. Like you said I got some random off the shelf part or
2. This is a difference between aspec and type s.
Probably 1
I don't...
Do you have a picture to compare your driver's side and passenger side mirror control module? This is my driver's side and it's much smaller than my passenger side
Note the 3 screws on driver's side vs
4 on the passenger side.