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The titanium shift knob for the DE5 is the same part# as the S2000 shift knob. It's more of a matte finish. I have the same, was a bit disappointed that the lettering was not red though but I do have a skunk2 shift knob on the side if I ever want to change things up.

Don't think it's CARB legal since it should come with a CARB sticker with an EO# I tried to do some research on PRL to see if it was but no information available which lead me to assume it's not as well. I'm was thinking about getting the takeda intake since it will be quicker to swap back to...

looks good. Do you know if they are going to make the whole lip CF? I hope it similar to the HRC where the Bezels are gloss black and the center piece is CF.

Yeah, I'm just being paranoid :p. From what I gathered and reading around, most motors have a certain level of tolerance being over and it's only a problem when you put like 2qts+ when it starts to get slushy from that extra oil.

Not sure why I didn't think of that lol... I did suck probably .15-.2 qts out just to be safe. I'm sure it would have been fine either way.. Probably just too paranoid...

hm... I did warm the car up a bit and left it draining till like it was like just slow dripping. Reading around some put 5.5qt with the FK8/FL5, pretty much the same motor. I did install a fumoto valve, so I can drain a little if needed. Just lazy to put the car back up jacks and remove the...

Did my first oil change today and adding 5.7qt went over the upper limit of the dip stick by a few mm. Was 5.7qts too much? It looks like that what the manual recommended

nice comparison.. would like some drive-by / cabin sound clips when you get a chance.

How is the sound comparison in the cabin with the K&N Drop-In versus the Takeda. I have a Sprint/Spoon drop-in and can barely hear any of the "whoosh" sound if Windows are up. Debating to upgrade to the Takeda for the better sound factor lol.

Looks like you're going to wire it if yours didn't come with turn signals initially. Probably should have gotten kit "C" since I believe it comes with extra harness/wiring for it. That's why I was making a little stink about mikstore charging "C" and "F" the same price when you get less harness...

IMO, I wouldn't swap out the base until you tested the mirror before hand. I know it will save time and I was tempted to do it but you don't want to be in that situation when everything is swapped and something is broken. With my luck, something always goes wrong during shipping. Plus you can...

What did you use to polish the black out?

Odd that yours drop, my AA been pretty stable and haven't had any drop issue. But to answer your question, I think there is an option in Developer Settings in the AA where you uncheck "Wireless Android Auto"

as mention, it's rev-hang. I had it on my 8thgen civic and had to get a tune to fix it but flashing the ECU was easier since didn't require an unlock like the DE5. Post#28 explains it better https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/revving-issue-during-upshifts.52138/page-2

Looks good! Haven't done the rear "A" black chrome yet since I couldn't find a matching front "A" black chrome that fits. As you mention, worsts come to worst we can always paint it but I read they tend to fade overtime.

No, but you have to be careful removing it since it's held by two small pins and circle clip.

Felt the same too.. I was hoping the "S" was darker but already bought it so end up using it. Doesn't look too bad on white but kind of blends in a tad bit in the front grill

NICE! I was actually thinking about looking for an OEM button switch style that fits in the blank spot but haven't really spent some time on it yet. I was hoping there was room behind the button to hide the module there and just run 1 wire to the 12v in the mirror and find a different ground but...

Shouldn't be an issue. Both the DE4 and DE5 share the same part number for the center console (Box assembly). The civic and integra share the same dimension only difference is depth.

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