5thHatchback
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I have been incredibly excited for this product to release. This is the TSP Gesi Catted Downpipe for the 23+ Acura Integra. It started with a simple email and slight nudging to be one of the first to be able to purchase the downpipe directly from TSP. Corey over at TSP reached out and let me know they had inventory trickeling in and ofcourse I had to jump on the opportunity to get one purchased and installed.
1.) Guaranteed No CEL ( 5" GESI EPA certified catalytic converter).
2.) I wanted a freer flowing exhaust.
3.) I wanted the sound that this should produce to emanate from the economy L15.
4.) This design is similar in characteristics to the PRL that has been discontinued.
6.) Solid platform for any additional modification that are made to the vehicle.
7.) Replaces the gaping hole of PRL pulling out of the market.
1.) Unboxing
2.) Install
3.) Impressions and sound/video clips
Downpipe was well protected and shipping took two (2) days to get to my location. Nothing appears to be damaged and came delivered via FedEx. The package contains the downpipe, bolts, nuts, gaskets, wiring extension and TSP sticker/decal (At least 5+ HP).
Tools: This cannot be overstated enough. If you do not have the right tools, think twice before doing the install solo, with hand tools. I had initially planned to use a right angle impact driver and the model I owned was woefully inadequate to remove the nuts from the turbo studs. The shop had air tools and the necessary extensions. Crisis over.
Side Note: Looking for recommendations for high powered battery impact drivers and power wratchets.
The best way to explain the install is a step by step method that I think makes the most sense for order of operations.
I used the video link as a blueprint for the install:
Lui Rivera PRL Downpipe Install
Why this downpipe is important?:
1.) Guaranteed No CEL ( 5" GESI EPA certified catalytic converter).
2.) I wanted a freer flowing exhaust.
3.) I wanted the sound that this should produce to emanate from the economy L15.
4.) This design is similar in characteristics to the PRL that has been discontinued.
6.) Solid platform for any additional modification that are made to the vehicle.
7.) Replaces the gaping hole of PRL pulling out of the market.
I plan on breaking this up in a couple of parts:
1.) Unboxing
2.) Install
3.) Impressions and sound/video clips
Pt.1 - Unboxing:
Downpipe was well protected and shipping took two (2) days to get to my location. Nothing appears to be damaged and came delivered via FedEx. The package contains the downpipe, bolts, nuts, gaskets, wiring extension and TSP sticker/decal (At least 5+ HP).
Pt. 2 - Install:
Admittedly, I do not have as many pictures as I would of liked of the install. I remembered to get a couple, but it was of the downpipe comparisons once the oe was off of the vehicle. I went to a local rent a lift location and was able to get the project started. While the installation itself was rather easy I did run into several challenges which required one of the techs to help me troubleshoot the issue. The process ended up taking me two (2) hours. I wasn't expecting it to take as long as it did, if im being honest. The short five mile trip from my work location to the shop required the car needing to be cooled down for at least 30 minutes. I initially wasn't planning on re-using the heat shields but after realizing how effective they are, I would have been a complete idiot to not reuse them.
Tools: This cannot be overstated enough. If you do not have the right tools, think twice before doing the install solo, with hand tools. I had initially planned to use a right angle impact driver and the model I owned was woefully inadequate to remove the nuts from the turbo studs. The shop had air tools and the necessary extensions. Crisis over.
Side Note: Looking for recommendations for high powered battery impact drivers and power wratchets.
The best way to explain the install is a step by step method that I think makes the most sense for order of operations.
- Drive vehicle on lift.
- Open hood
- Remove air intake cover (2x metal clips on housing) and silicon tube (2x phillips headed bolts or can use wratchet (Now have access to downpipe)
- Remove heatshield (3x 10or12mm bolts)
- With the downpipe revealed, liberally spray with pb blaster or equivalent on the 4x 14MM nuts (2x bolts, 2x stud nuts)
- Raise lift
- Remove metal protective shield and black cladding it attaches too. (Gives complete access to the front pipe and downpipe location) Combination of plastic shroud clips and phillips headed screws
- Remove 2x brackets securing downpipe and front pipe (4x 14MM bolts) Don't forget to spray with PB blaster
- Remove three (3) nuts securing downpipe to front pipe (Downpipe should be free on bottom end)
- Lower lift
- Begin the journey of removing the two (2) 14mm bolts and two (2) 14mm stud nuts.
- This was the absolute worst part of the job. Why? You may ask, it is so easy. Both of the turbo studs backed out along with the nut. If I was smart and forward thinking, I would have asked Corey over at TSP for the titanium hardware. Would have much rather dealt with installing new hardware than messing around with the studs, nuts and bolts.
- Remove o2 sensor, located bottom 3rd of downpipe
- With the downpipe free, lower from the top. A second set of hands comes in clutch here.
- With the oe downpipe removed, go ahead and swap over the heatshield. Oddly enough, there are 4x 10mm bolts and 1x 12mm bolt that secures the heatshield.
- With one turbo stud without the nut attached, I was able to get it threaded back into the turbo. I used this as my starting point for attaching the new downpipe. The downpipe gasket was reused.
- DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE four(4) included WASHERS.
- Why you ask? Because, I did. You will reach a certain point where the stud nuts cannot be tightened anymore with a painful looking gap. Mind you, I hand tightened the nuts and bolts, so it wasn't too difficult to back out.
- At this point, in an effort to expedite my process, the shop tech jumped on the top with the lift raised and I went below to finish attaching the bottom portion of the downpipe to the front pipe and install the downpipe/frontpipe hangars.
- DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE included GASKET.
- The new hardware that came with the downpipe to connect the downpipe/frontpipe was amazing quality and the number one reason I wish I would have used new hardware on the turbo/downpipe mounting point.
- With the downpipe and frontpipe connected, the tech lowered the 02 sensor from the top and I went ahead and attached it. I did not use the supplied (EXTENSION). I re-routed the wires a bit and was able to get a clean fit that didnt touch up against the heatshield components.
- At this point, everything should be secured. Re-install lower shield/shroud.
- Lower lift, re-attach heatshield piece, (See., step. 4)
- Re-install air intake cover and piping.
- You are finally done.
I used the video link as a blueprint for the install:
Lui Rivera PRL Downpipe Install
Pt. 3 - Impressions:
Once I figure out how to embed videos, I will upload before and after. The embedded video option doesn't seem to allow the upload of my videos.
Spoiler Alert: It sounds F'ing awesome.
Thermal R&D Front Pipe Back Exhaust - Cold Start:
Cold Start - Side & Rear
Thermal R&D Front Pipe Back Exhaust & TSP Downpipe - Cold Start:
Cold Start - Side & Rear
Once I figure out how to embed videos, I will upload before and after. The embedded video option doesn't seem to allow the upload of my videos.
Spoiler Alert: It sounds F'ing awesome.
Thermal R&D Front Pipe Back Exhaust - Cold Start:
Cold Start - Side & Rear
Thermal R&D Front Pipe Back Exhaust & TSP Downpipe - Cold Start:
Cold Start - Side & Rear
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