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Sorry I'm late to this conversation, but this might work: https://www.yellr.com/ I asked them if it works for an FL5 (because DE5 is so new) and they said: I believe the Yellow Box should be compatible. Not sure if Plug-n-play Harness would be available. Most likely it will be Splice Harness...

Per IIHS.org: Newer airbags have a safety belt sensor and use an algorithm to decide whether to deploy the bag in a given crash, depending on whether people are using safety belts. For unbelted occupants, a front airbag will typically deploy when the crash is the equivalent of an impact into...

Have you tried threading those nuts onto the wheel studs of your ITS? I think the nuts you have are M12 x 1.5, not M14 x 1.5. That would explain why the pointy end is so small. Let us know if they work.

They were steel lug nuts, these exactly: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124689867495. The diameter at the base of the scored/compressed area of the machined-down conical lug nuts is a very consistent .680 inch (17.3 mm) for all five. That's the ID at the top of the "virgin" conical lug nut seats on...

I like #4. I use a Shift Beeper in my S2000. Unfortunately Bob "Modifry" has retired and I can't find any other source.

You're welcome! And check out motorsportreg.com for events near you.

If you plan on becoming a serious track rat you should consider getting a Garmin Catalyst (ask @Zygrene how he likes his). It's much more than a lap timer/data logger/video recorder - it's an AI driving instructor. It will help you find the fast way around the track much more quickly and fine...

No, because the concave side of the wheel will be facing down. But all this stuff fits UNDER the wheel And I have refined it a bit further by sliding a piece of rubber tubing over the Coupler Nut (that's sticking up) and then I close the jack so it's squeezing down on the rubber tube. That way...

For those installing single-adjustable shocks for the first time, here's a useful guide: https://motoiq.com/how-to-adjust-your-shocks-part-one-single-adjustable-shocks. From that post, here's a Cause & Effect List for shock settings that might be worth printing and taking to the track with you...

Yes, I considered that however I wanted a solution that could be implemented without special tools or services. Some machine shops might be hesitant due to liability concerns. Furthermore, the original lug nut seats are formed to shape, so there is a raised lip around the circumference of each...

Perhaps you'd like this Honda VFR800 powered 1959 Berkeley

You could buy a "new" S2000 Type R from Evasive.

@NSXavier posted a great video showing the entire process in great detail, but was forced by his employer to remove it. Maybe you can PM him to get it. Here is the master mechanic at work.

They were called NSX & S2000.

They prefer to use their glowing descriptions as opposed to actual specs because many of them are not that different from stock, or their competitors. @Savagegeese said FL5 and DE5 use the same springs, but who knows, they could be mistaken. Many of the aftermarket spring packages use slightly...

@Zygrene said it was 4.5K / 4.5K at 0:31 into his Ohlins shock review video, but I don't know where he got that info. Best I could find was this on FK8 OEM springs: OEM: Spring Rate Front: - 4.7 kgf/mm Spring Rate Rear: - 4.2 kgf/mm

Thanks for your report - I'm glad to hear everything went well. Is your load cover raised up at the front or the back? Initially mine was at the back until I put a 1.5" spacer (scrap of 2x2) under the tire at the front (see last photo in Post #1). That made the plane of the wheel and tire...

When you start torqueing down lug nuts the holes will get smaller, so you will need to open them back up or they will collapse around the studs and the wheel will be stuck on the hub (this almost happened to me). So proceed with torqueing the nuts slowly and progressively and remove and inspect...

Here's a video: and another with more info:

How about asking @NSXavier