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What I did with the airbags was to help the back end not sag when pulling my trailer. It also slightly helps handling by keeping the car level and helps it to not look like a late 60's or early 70's Pontiac - those came off the lots looking like they were dragging ass. I don't think they...

It appears so. I did some checking this morning and they appeared to work - Checked the pressure and after 2 days they were sitting right at 30psi. I had overfilled them Wednesday, because I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing. It's about 20°F cooler this morning, so I'm going to say...

Yes, and very easily. In their initial response with the explanation about hub centric and lug centric wheels, they offered to send me a hub-centric ring as an alternative to returning the wheel. I told them I would prefer to return it and within an hour or so, they responded with a prepaid...

For at least the weekend. Yesterday, I did all the work at the auto hobby shop at my local military base, so I could use a lift. The only work I have left that using a lift would be very nice is running the power wire from the battery to the back; I'll need to drop at least one cover from...

That's exactly what I was thinking and exactly how I was going to test it. Thanks for validating my thoughts. The second harness I posted is for a 2023 Honda HRV. Honda says it has LED brake lights and none of the connecting wires in the harness has those little boxes. I think I'll be safe...

I'm not sure. I got a set based on Airsprings recommendation. I installed them yesterday, and they look too short. I was going to test them today, but it's supposed to rain all day. I'll check them tomorrow.

I have. I entered my VIN and hit submit and...nothing happens. When I click the help link, I'm told I'm not authorized to view that page. Tried on FF, Chrome, and *gasp* Edge and the exact same thing doesn't happen. I'll probable end up "toning it out" with a multimeter, but I'm not looking...

Yes, I know I can do that, but I'd rather see a wiring diagram that tells me which is which. At the very least it would save me having to make an extra long set of test leads.

I installed my hitch today. It went pretty smooth until I went to install the trailer wiring. The hitch for the Civic XI may fit the Integra, but the wiring harness does not. The lights come out easily enough. There are 4 bolts along the bottom and one on the top outboard corner. Remove...

In my experience, it goes away with a heavier shift knob. I put on a 500gm Billetworkz, which was stupid expensive, but my shifts are easy and close to butter smooth.

I have lithium batteries in my motorcycles. On something as light as a bike, the weight savings are a little more significant, but still relatively minor. It can also help with handling, if the battery is mounted higher on the bike - like the one mounted just behind the headstock on my KTM...

You are correct, but he installed it only to use a hitch mounted bike rack. I will be towing a trailer, so I have to get the lights out to connect the wiring harness for the trailer lights.

I got a response from Modern Spare this morning. I don't know that much about cars, but I'm pretty sure that matching the wheel bore to the hub diameter is pretty critical. Modern Spare's response included an explanation of the difference between hub centric and lug centric.

I took my car and parts to the dealer to get an estimate for installation. It's going to be expensive. I don't have a good history with bumper covers. The only other time I tried to remove/reinstall one was with my GTI and I broke one of the most important clips - on the corner - and the...

I see what you're talking about. In some of the photos in this thread and the one on Redline's site, I'm having trouble seeing the tops of the tires, so it's hard for me to gauge. I agree with you about the camber not being hugely affected, but if I do lower mine, I'm going to get the arms...

The bore of a wheel is the diameter of the hole in the middle. It is a critical measurement because it has to precisely mate with the hub on the car. If you look at my picture, the hub is the small raised ring that has no rust on it. You can see the space between it and the wheel bore easily...

Eibach says the drop is 1.3" front and 1.0" rear.

Yes it is and no it didn't. The bore of the wheel is something over 70mm, when I'm pretty sure it should be 64.1mm. I'm sure I could get an adapter for it, but now it's a matter of principle. They charge a hell of a lot of money for a wheel/tire they say fits and send me one that doesn't...

I thought about that, but a half-hearted try made me think I might damage it.

Didn't know what was there?