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Which Acuity parts needed to just remove lateral slop on shifter?

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Ash @ S2i Audio

Ash @ S2i Audio

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Ash
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That's the one I used, with the caveat that you should point the loop forwards (away from the driver) rather than towards the driver as the instructions suggest, in order to maintain clearance for a wire harness that passes behind the CMC damper bracket.

Also, and I cannot overstate this enough, set yourself up for success to have a perfectly bled clutch hydraulic system. Vacuum bleeders are not it. Get a pressure/power bleeder.

My instructions/etc for all of this are here: https://www.integraforums.com/forum...t-1-10th-second-of-lag-delay-per-shift.59333/
I prefer pressure bleeders too, but didn't have the correct adapter for the MC in our cars, so I tried a vacuum bleeder and it actually ended up working really really well. And it was FAST.
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I am happy with the performance of the OEM Honda fluid in cold weather. I've also been really happy with Redline MT-90 in cold weather (in my truck) so I'm going to give MTL a shot. If I don't like it, ACDelco Synchromesh FM will be next up.

I also got the Acuity bushings to do "while I'm in there."
Got this done today. The Acuity bushings aren't a crazy difference when you already have the full 4-way Acuity shifter, but they do make some difference and they aren't awful to install.

The Redline MTL made quite a difference. I am going to reserve full judgement until the car gets cold soaked to ~0°F again. And looking at the forecast, that may not happen until next year.

The synchro engagement is now much smoother. Before with the Honda MTL, it felt a little bit gritty. Now it's very slick. This is similar to my experience going from OEM Toyota fluid to Redline MT-90 in my truck.

I think I'm at the point now where I'm happy with how everything feels. I might try some things to get the knob a touch higher, but the shifting feels pretty great now. I don't see a need to futz with the detent springs at all.
 
 





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