Disable Fake Engine Noise

[creaturemachine]

Unless it's trying to make you sound like the Jetsons how would one even know?

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[MikeMc]

Never noticed the fake noise...
Do you have to be in Sport+ "all the way", or also in individual with the engine on Sport+?

I'm always in individual with the engine on Sport+ and never noticed it.

From the CTR forums, it seems to be very noticeable in the CTR.

In Sport+ at the high end of the rpm range. I also don’t notice it as fake but the Acura dealer didn’t deny it when I asked him to remove the module. It would be the same module that controls the ANC and I also need to get rid of that. I’m guessing that it’s behind the glovebox, but I don’t like guessing.

 

[ABPDE5]

Certainly not hearing any of this

 

[SocalDE5]

Certainly not hearing any of this

Lol. This is too much. In engine bay and exhaust...with cabin.

If I put a mic on my stomach you may hear bubble guts n stuff.

 

[VersionX1]

Lol. This is too much. In engine bay and exhaust...with cabin.

If I put a mic on my stomach you may here bubble guts n stuff.

This guy is wound a little too tight. I've seen his videos before. He acts like I did in my twenties. MODS MODS MODS! Calm down Dominic Torreto.

To each their own though I guess.

 

[JohnV]

My A-Spec absolutely has piped in sounds. I blew the subwoofer early on and got these terrible buzzing sounds as I accelerated. At first my dealer denied that such a thing existed, except in an NSX. When I pushed they admitted it's there, but wouldn't/couldn't disable it.
Dealer replaced it for me, and so I can sort of detect the difference when I have the window open. I still think I'd like to disable it, but I'm getting used to it.
OTOH, my wife's RDX has these completely inappropriate sounds. Outside, you hear the basic four cylinder sounds, but in the car it sounds much more racy.

 

[MikeMc]

My A-Spec absolutely has piped in sounds. I blew the subwoofer early on and got these terrible buzzing sounds as I accelerated. At first my dealer denied that such a thing existed, except in an NSX. When I pushed they admitted it's there, but wouldn't/couldn't disable it.
Dealer replaced it for me, and so I can sort of detect the difference when I have the window open. I still think I'd like to disable it, but I'm getting used to it.
OTOH, my wife's RDX has these completely inappropriate sounds. Outside, you hear the basic four cylinder sounds, but in the car it sounds much more racy.

Exactly. If it’s done well, you’re not supposed to notice it. It’s supposed to sound completely natural and not fake. You would only notice it if something happened to the subwoofer. But I don’t know. It sounds like people on this forum changed out their subwoofer and they didn’t notice any odd sounds afterward so maybe it’s not necessary to disable the module.

 

[FredS2000]

Question to those that have unplugged the anc/asc module above the glovebox. Does the bluetooth mic still function for phone calls and other voice commands/google assistant?

I followed the wiring diagrams and all 3 headliner mics go to it, and the front center one is the one for, as Honda calls is, hands free link.

I'm also curious, does the module do active cancellation/fake sounds with the audio system on/playing music?

 

[ghostkp]

Question to those that have unplugged the anc/asc module above the glovebox. Does the bluetooth mic still function for phone calls and other voice commands/google assistant?

I followed the wiring diagrams and all 3 headliner mics go to it, and the front center one is the one for, as Honda calls is, hands free link.

I'm also curious, does the module do active cancellation/fake sounds with the audio system on/playing music?

Non related but where you get the wiring diagrams? Are our cars finally on alldata

 

[FredS2000]

I use Mitchell 1 at work, it's taken forever for them to get just the wiring diagrams on their site. The anc/asc unit is integrated into the audio system and on two different networks. I wish they'd just have a fuse for that unit, but the fuse that powers it, powers a bunch of other units as well.

 

[ghostkp]

I use Mitchell 1 at work, it's taken forever for them to get just the wiring diagrams on their site. The anc/asc unit is integrated into the audio system and on two different networks. I wish they'd just have a fuse for that unit, but the fuse that powers it, powers a bunch of other units as well.

Could you perhaps get me the wiring diagram for the BCM? I'm trying to find the headlight wire that goes to 12v when head lights kick on. If I can't get it inside I'm going to run it straight from the headlight.

 

[FredS2000]

I took a quick look at the power distribution, bcm and exterior lights diagrams. Mitchell lets me print the diagrams, I can't save diagrams to send, at least here at home.

There are two fuses (27 and 30) that send constant 12v to the lamp assemblies, both 15a in the underhood fuse box. Based on what I see, there is NO 12v feed to the headlights for hi-low, it's all done with 5v signal lines from the bcm to the modules within the lamps themselves.

You can test this at the left lamp, light blue, 12v feed; black, ground; purple, turn signal input; red and blue, I can only guess, as they aren't labeled yet. Beam control and/or drl control.

Disconnecting the headlamp key on, will probably set codes in the bcm.

 

[ghostkp]

I took a quick look at the power distribution, bcm and exterior lights diagrams. Mitchell lets me print the diagrams, I can't save diagrams to send, at least here at home.

There are two fuses (27 and 30) that send constant 12v to the lamp assemblies, both 15a in the underhood fuse box. Based on what I see, there is NO 12v feed to the headlights for hi-low, it's all done with 5v signal lines from the bcm to the modules within the lamps themselves.

You can test this at the left lamp, light blue, 12v feed; black, ground; purple, turn signal input; red and blue, I can only guess, as they aren't labeled yet. Beam control and/or drl control.

Disconnecting the headlamp key on, will probably set codes in the bcm.

Jesus, I hope my relays activate with 5V, if not I'll have to buy some. They make it so much more complicated, but I feel like interior footwell lights on 24/7 is a waste

 

[FredS2000]

Do you have the lighted sill plates? If so, they run on 12v, from what I recall. The fuses that feed the plates should have only 12v when the doors are open. If not, the wiring is already there to tap into. What are you using for lamps for footwell lights?

 

[ghostkp]

Do you have the lighted sill plates? If so, they run on 12v, from what I recall. The fuses that feed the plates should have only 12v when the doors are open. If not, the wiring is already there to tap into. What are you using for lamps for footwell lights?

I drove with Opt7 Aura Pro for Ambient lighting at night for years, I kind of miss it. However, their kits now have to be switched on every time rather than always on when powered, and I lost my original module back when my old Aspec Tech got totaled.

This time, I bought LEDGLOW, as they had an option for my motorcycle that tied into the brakes to flash red. I hope they're good, but I don't do the flashy rainbow stuff, just ambient lighting. This time I'll go a dim red. It does have a dome light trigger I could tie into as well.

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