Dynamat Installation

[ZeroGSR]

My plan is to replace my red door panels with black, and since I am taking everything apart anyway, would there be any noticeable benefit to applying some dynamat or similar product? I have never done it before, so any tips if it would be helpful or where to apply it would be appreciated.

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[koatic]

I used to compete in car audio competitions years ago.. Dynamat was top notch keeping rattles to a minimum and internal DB high but at a premium cost and it was pretty heavy adding weight. Dynamat may have improved tech over the years to more lightweight dampening but not a value add IMO unless you are replacing the ELS audio with competition quality. (why would you do that in an ITS? IMO)

 

[wagood]

From what I can tell the doors let in a good amount of noise (along with the rest of the car...) so there will probably be some benefit if done right, but not as much as if you were to do the whole thing. I vote you watch some YouTube videos on installation, do it, and get back to us with results, but it's your money and time so understandable if you decide not to.

The carAV subreddit has a good number of posts on sound deadening you can read through for more info if you do decide to do it.

 

[motopsycha]

I did not like the amount of road noise I was getting and recently went through an extensive effort to improve it.

I used three products in my efforts, CLD sheets from Siless (similar to dynamat), a hybrid 3 layer (CLD, closed cell foam and noise blocking product) from Siless and 2 thicknesses of Thinsulate sound insulation product from 3M.

Reay hatch and trunk space: I applied CLD product to the sheet metal in the back hatch areas. I removed the rear interior panels and back seat and hit all the panels that had some resonance. I also layered some of the hybrid material in the areas around the wheel wells. I applied the thicker thinsulate material on the backside of the side panels and the thinner material covering the floor/spare tire well. I also put a layer of thinsulate under the rear seat.

Doors: CLD on the exterior skins as well as flat areas on the interior. I applied the Thinsulate on bare areas of the door cards not covered by existing thisulate. There was actually some nice thinsulate panels already installed on front and back door panels.

Wheel wells: The rear I applied a layer of the thin thinsulate on the backside of the liner. On the the front I applied some of the hybrid material on the backside of the plastic liner followed by a layer of thinsulate.

Other areas: I put a layer of the hybrid material + thinsulate on the plastic piece that fills the gap between the fender and front door hinge. I also put thinsulate material behind the front driver and passenger kick panels. Finally I addressed the b-pillar with a combination of CLD, hybrid material and thinsulate.

All this took a weekend of work. I am happy with the results. It helps cut the tire noise from rough roads to a tolerable level and makes highway cruising much more pleasant.

 

[ZeroGSR]

Thanks for the tips, my intent was to cut down on road noise, reduce the chance of rattles, and just make the doors feel more premium. Good to hear they already have some thinsulate. Watching some videos, and looking at the weight of some of these products, I will probably pass for now. I am not that anal about it, just thought if I already had it exposed it might be worth doing something, but considering I likely wouldn't do it correctly, it's probably not worth the effort. Plus damn this stuff is expensive...

 

[Halliel32]

It's a good idea to clean the surface and test-fit each piece of Dynamat prior to exposing the adhesive on the back side. Installation is as simple as peeling off the protective paper and laying the Dynamat in place.

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