keAiko18’s LCM ‘24 Type-S

[optronix]

Thanks! and yes i get it. I also wanted to have center caps. It will look better, nicer, and clean. But, the last time i checked and tried searching for center caps, they don't have any made to fit the CE28SL's.
So, if you know of any shop or website that does offer center caps for the SL model, please lmk cuz i will definitely go look into it.

Which lower ball joints did you go with for reference?
The thing that i am still tryna figure out is finding a competent and trustworthy shop to perform these adjustments and alignment type work. I usually perform all work/maintenance/mods myself, except work that require specific large tooling or machinery, like an alignment rack.

I look forward to your pics!

Never thought of this which ones u recommend

Sorry I had fully intended on getting out and taking pics but the day got away from me and now it's very clearly dark. Tomorrow I'll try again!

But I went with EVS tuning. Slightly different design than the Whitelines, but ultimately I can't say one is superior to the other. The EVS tuning give you 3 points of adjustment via various orientations of eccentric washers where the bolts pass through the assembly; 0, -1, and -2 degrees. I have mine in the most aggressive setting, without strut tower pins pulled, and I have almost exactly -3.5 degrees negative camber for each front wheel.

I believe the Whitelines may allow for more if that's your thing. They use a similar concept but the washers are held in place by pins. It might just be me overthinking but this design turned me off just a bit because it feels like the pins are conceptually more flimsy than having the washer mount flush within the assembly like the EVS. But several people including @Zygrene have been using the Whitelines in anger for many track days and they've held up just fine. (They are also ~$50-75 more expensive than the EVS from what I've found though).

One of the prolific members of the CivicXI boards and FL5 track rat, PointByPatrol (i.e., Ben, one of the most knowledgeable and friendly dudes available for this platform), also made this great video from when he installed his. His pins are pulled and he got -4.2 degrees! He says that's too much though so he's backing it up to -3.2. But it seems like a straightforward install if you want to do it yourself, then take it somewhere to get it aligned. Really you'll just be validating your expectations for camber (you're probably around -1.5 front/-2.5 rear right now on your springs and adjust expectations from there), and making sure your toe is where it should be and nothing shifted around during all the banging and clanging from the install!

(Also make sure to do him a solid and like and subscribe for more great content from Ben, his exploits make us all better!!!

Also definitely Zygrene for even more ITS-specific content!)

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[Nivek2slick]

Sorry I had fully intended on getting out and taking pics but the day got away from me and now it's very clearly dark. Tomorrow I'll try again!

But I went with EVS tuning. Slightly different design than the Whitelines, but ultimately I can't say one is superior to the other. The EVS tuning give you 3 points of adjustment via various orientations of eccentric washers where the bolts pass through the assembly; 0, -1, and -2 degrees. I have mine in the most aggressive setting, without strut tower pins pulled, and I have almost exactly -3.5 degrees negative camber for each front wheel.

I believe the Whitelines may allow for more if that's your thing. They use a similar concept but the washers are held in place by pins. It might just be me overthinking but this design turned me off just a bit because it feels like the pins are conceptually more flimsy than having the washer mount flush within the assembly like the EVS. But several people including @Zygrene have been using the Whitelines in anger for many track days and they've held up just fine. (They are also ~$50-75 more expensive than the EVS from what I've found though).

One of the prolific members of the CivicXI boards and FL5 track rat, PointByPatrol (i.e., Ben, one of the most knowledgeable and friendly dudes available for this platform), also made this great video from when he installed his. His pins are pulled and he got -4.2 degrees! He says that's too much though so he's backing it up to -3.2. But it seems like a straightforward install if you want to do it yourself, then take it somewhere to get it aligned. Really you'll just be validating your expectations for camber (you're probably around -1.5 front/-2.5 rear right now on your springs and adjust expectations from there), and making sure your toe is where it should be and nothing shifted around during all the banging and clanging from the install!

(Also make sure to do him a solid and like and subscribe for more great content from Ben, his exploits make us all better!!!

Also definitely Zygrene for even more ITS-specific content!)

Dang lots of info I never even thought of and I'm lowered on h&r and about to go 10.5 wide 285/30/19 tires on apex wheels so getting this will help

 

[optronix]

Dang lots of info I never even thought of and I'm lowered on h&r and about to go 10.5 wide 285/30/19 tires on apex wheels so getting this will help

If you're going to go 10.5, absolutely. I've heard it doesn't rub but the camber will ensure it doesn't. Your grip will be insane.

I'm curious to see how -3.5 will affect tire wear, but others have reported that it's still not enough to have a huge effect. Toe is what will chew through your tires. I think I recall someone who installed springs and did not get an alignment, and they ate through their tires in ~10k miles. Toe was probably out if I were to guess...

But I've decided I'm leaving the OEM PS4S on for a few months as sacrificial tires. If all is well and I can't notice much additional wear in the shoulders, I'll stay where I'm at. If I do, I'll probably back off to -2.5.

 

[Nivek2slick]

If you're going to go 10.5, absolutely. I've heard it doesn't rub but the camber will ensure it doesn't. Your grip will be insane.

I'm curious to see how -3.5 will affect tire wear, but others have reported that it's still not enough to have a huge effect. Toe is what will chew through your tires. I think I recall someone who installed springs and did not get an alignment, and they ate through their tires in ~10k miles. Toe was probably out if I were to guess...

But I've decided I'm leaving the OEM PS4S on for a few months as sacrificial tires. If all is well and I can't notice much additional wear in the shoulders, I'll stay where I'm at. If I do, I'll probably back off to -2.5.

I'll get it aligned and all but one of reasons is one of my tires has to get replaced so I'm like here we go I'll look into getting what u recommend

 

[Nivek2slick]

If you're going to go 10.5, absolutely. I've heard it doesn't rub but the camber will ensure it doesn't. Your grip will be insane.

I'm curious to see how -3.5 will affect tire wear, but others have reported that it's still not enough to have a huge effect. Toe is what will chew through your tires. I think I recall someone who installed springs and did not get an alignment, and they ate through their tires in ~10k miles. Toe was probably out if I were to guess...

But I've decided I'm leaving the OEM PS4S on for a few months as sacrificial tires. If all is well and I can't notice much additional wear in the shoulders, I'll stay where I'm at. If I do, I'll probably back off to -2.5.

So if you were me you would buy these with my setup

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