Rear AC vents part kit from 2022 Civic

[acurax]

I need to test my new connection for the illumination and post additional info on it once complete...

So, if you just wanted to make a harness to integrate the Honda OEM USB-C module it wouldn't require as much and you would use the existing harness for the rear center console the keyless entry module.

To tie into the front USB-C you'll need these connectors and each will be split off to the original front

Front USB Illumination to the rear USB-C connection.

• Tyco Electronics (TE) 1473143-1 (Black, 2 POS, Contact Side)
  • TE 1123343-1 (025 Receptacle Contact)(Socket)
• Found on Ali-Express w/ wires terminated(2 POS, Socket Side) (Not made by TE, but TE confirmed Honda did/does)
  • If you get it w/o the terminals - TE 1376109-1 (025 Tab Contact)(Pin)

The yellow wire matches to green and the red wire to white for the rear USB illumination.

USB-C connection to the rear USB-C connection.

• JAE MX34003PF1 (Gray, 3 POS, Pin Side Cable)
  • JAE M34P75C4F2 (Pin Contact MX34)
• JAE MX34003SF1 (Gray, 3 POS, Socket Side Cable)
  • JAE M34S75C4F1 (Socket Contact MX34)

The rear USB-C connector is:

• JAE MX34005SF1 (Gray, 5 POS, Socket Side Cable)
  • JAE M34S75C4F1 (Socket Contact MX34)

Here's the connector layout:

To get the illumination working with the dimming, the connection to tap into looks to be the illumination for the front USB ports. It's a two pin, black connector with yellow and red wires. The red wire matches to the white and the yellow to the green for the rear USB connector. I'll post additional info.


Wires 3 (white) & 7 (green) will be split between the parking brake/brake hold and the rear USB-C ports. All wires will go from the Pin Side (MX34012PF1) to the same location in the Socket Side (MX34012SF1) and then wires that split off of the 3 (green) and 7 (white) will go to positions 4 & 5 respectively for the USB-C 5P connector.

Here's a wiring diagram I put together which should help anyone wanting to build their own adapter harness for the Type-S. If you're using the non-Type-S console harness in a Type-S then this would obviously be a little different, but I think it includes enough information to figure it out. The connection for the non-Type-S console harness is reflected by C216/C217.

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[nateb55]

Also, I was able to buy just the splitter for $70 from mikstoreph by reaching out to them on facebook. All of the other parts for the rear vents w/ USB I obtained through Honda/Acura, either JDM Yamato or US based dealership's online.

What did you end up using for the under console ducts if you didn't get from the kit. I noticed that these ones on Yamato look like they might work since they go off to the right hand side of the console instead of the left (Items 28 and 30 for a 2023 Type R)

 

[acurax]

Those are what I used, though the first section did push against the passenger side center console trim panel. Also, where they connect together it shows a plastic clip, but that mounts the first section to the rear of the shift lever floor mount, which I did not get since I'm unsure if it would prevent the duct from being pushed in by the center console passenger side trim panel.

 

[acurax]

For anyone that's wondering, you're only tapping into the parking brake/brake hold connector for the lighting system connection. So everything is just passing through except those two wires which you are split to also be directed to the rear USB ports. I didn't want to splice into the factory harness which is why I went the route of building my own adapter harness, but to each their own.

These wires all tie back to thermal joints 5 (bottom) and 6 (top):

Which are located somewhere on the dash harness in this region. I think they are inside of the plastic piece I boxed in red. Running dedicated wires into that might be too much of a hassle.

 

[nateb55]

Those are what I used, though the first section did push against the passenger side center console trim panel. Also, where they connect together it shows a plastic clip, but that mounts the first section to the rear of the shift lever floor mount, which I did not get since I'm unsure if it would prevent the duct from being pushed in by the center console passenger side trim panel.

Gotcha. I'm curious if it would even fit or work since it's for a rhd car. I'm planning on going this route but I have a hybrid racing shifter so maybe there will a little more clearance
I have a suspicion it also has the splitter but I haven't been able to track down a parts diagram for the air box on a JDM civic to confirm

Also putting together an order for the harness. I appreciate the research you did on all the part numbers.

 

[acurax]

Gotcha. I'm curious if it would even fit or work since it's for a rhd car. I'm planning on going this route but I have a hybrid racing shifter so maybe there will a little more clearance
I have a suspicion it also has the splitter but I haven't been able to track down a parts diagram for the air box on a JDM civic to confirm

Also putting together an order for the harness. I appreciate the research you did on all the part numbers.

What I ran into with the splitter is that unless you purchase the whole heater sub-assembly you can't get it. That said, I found that the Acura ADX has a splitter (79106-3Y0-H51) which looks very much like the one I got from mikstoreph.

 

[itsgr8]

Just placed the order for the dual type-c variant. Are there any read-to-purchase/ship options for 2025 DE5? Maybe a splitter of some sort that allow us to split the power supply from the front usb ports.

https://mikstoreph.com/products/civic-2022-rear-ac-assembly-kit?variant=47410644648186

 

[akoza]

Just placed the order for the dual type-c variant. Are there any read-to-purchase/ship options for 2025 DE5? Maybe a splitter of some sort that allow us to split the power supply from the front usb ports.

https://mikstoreph.com/products/civic-2022-rear-ac-assembly-kit?variant=47410644648186

I'd be hesitant to steal power from the front USB ports or cigarette lighter. My understanding is they used to that and then switched to the connector in your picture which plugs into the fusebox. Do you have anything against using that one?

 

[itsgr8]

I'd be hesitant to steal power from the front USB ports or cigarette lighter. My understanding is they used to that and then switched to the connector in your picture which plugs into the fusebox. Do you have anything against using that one?

Not really, just that i don't know where the fuse box is. Us it in the cabin or engine bay?

 

[akoza]

Not really, just that i don't know where the fuse box is. Us it in the cabin or engine bay?

Here's a DIY video I made when I installed the HomeLink MIrror. If you watch from 5:18 to 7:05, you'll see how to get access to the fusebox and which plug to use. They both connect to the same spot so when later installed my USB ports I had to plug into a passthrough connector that came with the harness on the HomeLink mirror. If you don't have a HomeLink mirror then you have nothing to worry about here and can just the spot on the fusebox.

 

[akoza]

Here's a DIY video I made when I installed the HomeLink MIrror. If you watch from 5:18 to 7:05, you'll see how to get access to the fusebox and which plug to use. They both connect to the same spot so when later installed my USB ports I had to plug into a passthrough connector that came with the harness on the HomeLink mirror. If you don't have a HomeLink mirror then you have nothing to worry about here and can just the spot on the fusebox.

Not really, just that i don't know where the fuse box is. Us it in the cabin or engine bay?

For your case, you shouldn't need to remove that triangular side panel or the one above the fusebox (that was only for routing a wire up the A-pillar) but you can screw the ground connection under that second panel like I did in the video. You'll just have to get under there and route the harness under the steering wheel and zip tie it along some other wires, making sure you don't get in the way of the pedals, knee airbag, or steering column.

 

[acurax]

For your case, you shouldn't need to remove that triangular side panel or the one above the fusebox (that was only for routing a wire up the A-pillar) but you can screw the ground connection under that second panel like I did in the video. You'll just have to get under there and route the harness under the steering wheel and zip tie it along some other wires, making sure you don't get in the way of the pedals, knee airbag, or steering column.

Though, if you want to ground to a factory ground there is one behind the the side panel which was close enough for me to ground my homelink mirror to and likely the same would be true for your USB ground.

 

[itsgr8]

Though, if you want to ground to a factory ground there is one behind the the side panel which was close enough for me to ground my homelink mirror to and likely the same would be true for your USB ground.

Thanks for the suggestions! Will report back once all parts arrive

 

[nateb55]

TLDR : Using the Honda parts will net a more solid "plug and play" experience at a higher cost and possibly having the buy the mik kit anyways vs the mik lower cost "some fitting may be required"

Got all the parts in to install the rear AC kit. Originally I was going to go with all oem parts minus the air splitter since you can't seem to get that as a standalone anywhere. I reached out to mikstore to see if they would send me just the splitter for the air box but after a few messages they ghosted me. I ended up biting the bullet and just ordering the full kit from them knowing I wasn't going to be using hardly anything from their kit.

As an upside I do have side by side comparison between the two sets of parts.

To start off, some of the parts in the mik kit appear to have Honda part numbers on them but they seem not necessary bad in quality, but they don't feel like oem quality. I'm not sure if they're just knock offs or if they're some super low cost region specific parts.

The mik parts are on the left and Honda parts are on the right in all of these pictures.

The main difference I noticed on the back panels was the texturing. The Honda part is more pronounced and seemed to match the finish in the rest of the car a lot better. Also the mik part uses a slightly different arrangement to mount the rear vent and duct.

The rear vent itself in the mik is was stood out the most to me as a knock off. Can't show it in a picture but the directional movement of the vent seem cheap and flimsy. There almost no resistance to them at all. Also the marking on the shut off wheel is a bit messed up and the rubber textured part of the shut off is kinda loose fitting on the vent. The Honda part movement doesn't seem overly stiff in comparison but adjusting it doesn't make me think hitting a bump in the road my change the adjustment. The shut off wheel overall feels more solid.

The duct mounting is another big difference. The mik duct just slides over the vent and has a bit of foam to seal it. It also gets screwed into the back panel to secure it. The Honda duct actually clips into the vent assembly and also had foam to seal it. The bottom of the duct clips into the back panel instead of screws. The Honda parts had harness clip mount on the duct itself vs the mik was on the panel.

For the chargers I went with the dual USB C from an A Spec Technology package and the mik was their dual USB A + USB C. This is where the most complexity of installation is going to show up. The Honda part snaps into the back panel no problem. If you have an A Spec Tech then you can reuse your old charger and it's plug and play. For the Type S and non tech cars, it requires tapping into the car wiring elseware to make it work. The Honda back panel did come with a blank cover plate if you want to forgoe the charger.
The mik charger came with a harness that jumpers off the cigarette lighter. I had problems with screws on the charger interfering with the panel when I tried to test fit it. Im sure you could force it in without too much effort but I was worried about scratching up the back panel too much if I tried to remove it. Quality wise the Honda charger has significantly more weight to it than the mik charger.
This is purely subjective but to me at least the mik store screams cheap electronics that may or may not fail unreasonable quick. It's also void of any certification or markings.

Mik ^

Honda ^

I didn't take any pictures of the air ducts as they seemed fairly unremarkable. The Honda route I went with uses a 2 part system vs the mik is one long tube.

Installing either will still require the Type R console box and finding a way to attach the top lid or cutting a hole in your factory box

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