Type S Winter Wheels / Fitment Specs

[RUNN1N]

Did you need hub centric spacers with this ?

Nope! At least not that I know of. The set came with lugs, and the installer said the OEM lugs (and my wheel locks) were too large to work for them.

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[hypersss]

Anyone know what the jack point height is on the ITS? I don't have the car yet, but I'm shopping for a jack so that I can change to winter tires ASAP once I bring it home.

Looking at a few different jacks, I'm seeing minimum lift heights anywhere from 3.35 to 5.75 inches.

 

[norsairius]

Anyone know what the jack point height is on the ITS? I don't have the car yet, but I'm shopping for a jack so that I can change to winter tires ASAP once I bring it home.

Looking at a few different jacks, I'm seeing minimum lift heights anywhere from 3.35 to 5.75 inches.

Lower profile is probably better since this car sits pretty low. I've got something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html - specs say minimum height of 3.5 inches and that was enough, plus some extra room, to get the jack positioned and then jack the car up from there.

That said, I've been seeing more about the jack points on the ITS and I'm wondering: What's the issue with using a floor jack at the corner jack points? Is there concern about potential damage to the pinch welds? If so, could we just use a jack pad or hockey puck and be fine?

Or is there another reason why we should only use the front/rear jack points to lift the car up and then only use jack stands on the corner jack points?

I ask because I've always been fine using a floor jack at the jack points at each corner on all of my previous cars, but this is the first car I've had where I've seen at least a few discussions that recommend otherwise.

The rear jack point to get both rear wheels off the ground is easy enough to get to, but the front center jack point is set way far back.

 

[ChromaPop]

Lower profile is probably better since this car sits pretty low. I've got something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html - specs say minimum height of 3.5 inches and that was enough, plus some extra room, to get the jack positioned and then jack the car up from there.

That said, I've been seeing more about the jack points on the ITS and I'm wondering: What's the issue with using a floor jack at the corner jack points? Is there concern about potential damage to the pinch welds? If so, could we just use a jack pad or hockey puck and be fine?

Or is there another reason why we should only use the front/rear jack points to lift the car up and then only use jack stands on the corner jack points?

I ask because I've always been fine using a floor jack at the jack points at each corner on all of my previous cars, but this is the first car I've had where I've seen at least a few discussions that recommend otherwise.

The rear jack point to get both rear wheels off the ground is easy enough to get to, but the front center jack point is set way far back.

All great questions. I for one need a good video on the top recommended way to do this.

 

[sarspants]

All great questions. I for one need a good video on the top recommended way to do this.

This video should do it though I have to admit I didn't try it. For just swapping out the wheels and not being under the car I just used my jack at each of the corner lift points using a hockey puck and didn't bother with jack stands for a quick up and down. If I was doing an oil change or something longer like a brake job I would definitely use jack stands.

 

[ChromaPop]

This video should do it though I have to admit I didn't try it. For just swapping out the wheels and not being under the car I just used my jack at each of the corner lift points using a hockey puck and didn't bother with jack stands for a quick up and down. If I was doing an oil change or something longer like a brake job I would definitely use jack stands.

Not seeing a video link?

 

[sarspants]

Not seeing a video link?

oops, fixed!

 

[acklam]

Here is my economical setup. I didn't go for any nice brand stuff and saved some $.

Some no brand wheels. 18x8 +40 offset. The shop says they are called "REV" wheels.. They also throw in some Acura wheel caps for free to complete that OEM like look.

Nexen Winspike 3 tires. 235/40 R18. Korean made. Some online reviews say they are pretty good for the price.... I will see how they hold up against Toronto winter.

 

[Midnight_VTEC]

Here is what I did today, my winter setup. Superspeed wheels on Conti’s.

Got them from a Wheelsco, TMPS was supposed to be preprogrammed but it’s not working…sigh. I went for a thorough drive but still don’t sync up. Guess I’m heading to the dealer Tuesday.

 

[hypersss]

RE: the jack point height; I was wondering about the corner points. I’ve just measured their height as 6’’ at the front and 6.5’’ at the rear. Basically any regular jack should work for those.

For the front center jack point I guess height is irrelevant since even long-reach jacks couldn’t get to it unless the front-end had already been raised quite a bit (with ramps, etc).

 

[crepr12]

Here is my economical setup. I didn't go for any nice brand stuff and saved some $.

Some no brand wheels. 18x8 +40 offset. The shop says they are called "REV" wheels.. They also throw in some Acura wheel caps for free to complete that OEM like look.

Nexen Winspike 3 tires. 235/40 R18. Korean made. Some online reviews say they are pretty good for the price.... I will see how they hold up against Toronto winter.

jmho...never go cheap on tires only things that connects you with the road...Good luck

 

[acklam]

Fair comment, and I generally agreed. That's why I did a lot of research first. I have bought Korean tires in a few occasions and have had good results so far - but I always do my research first.

 

[norsairius]

For anyone who have swapped to their winter setup already: Are you noticing flatspotting overnight?

I feel like the flatspotting I'm getting with the Vredstein Wintrac Pro tires is pretty bad as the car feels bumpy when I first drive off in the morning, but maybe it's because I haven't had a car with a suspension like the ITS in a long time.

I thought maybe it was a wheel balance issue or worse: maybe I had made a mistake while swapping to the winter set. The ride feels fine though when I'm driving back home after I drive the car for a bit, get to my destination, park it for a while, etc.

Edit: Maybe it's related, maybe not, but I also hear some creaking when I turn the steering wheel after backing out of my driveway. Seems to happen while I have my foot on the brake because I back out onto a slight hill. Doesn't happen all the time though.

 

[crepr12]

Not my Michs all season 4, but back in my Conti's DWS (Fxd thanks #Norsairius) days they would flat spot, but the issue would be gone in less than a mile of driving.

 

[norsairius]

Not my Michs all season 4, but back in my DSW days they would flat spot, but the issue would be gone in less than a mile of driving.

Your comment on DSW (or is it DWS? Whatever - same three letters anyway haha) leads me to believe that the softer compound probably makes the flatspotting more prominent (which would make sense), but I may jack up each corner and check things are tight just in case.

I just don't remember winter tires being like this on my other cars where I've run a dedicated winter set, but then those had different suspension tunings and more sidewall too (even if only a little, 45 ratio on the last set I had, 40 with this set).

I've scheduled an appointment to get the wheel balance checked, but it's a couple weeks out. I think it's busy everywhere with everyone getting their cars winter-ready!

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