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bpebler

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Added Homelink mirror from a civic touring and wired up my Garmin Dashcam Mini 2. Front one hides nicely behind the mirror and hard wired it to the fuse box.

For the rear I had a 12v cigarette socket laying around, figured i'd wire that up in the trunk and connect that rear wire via USB. Trickiest part is feeding the micro USB head through the rubber wire cover on the hatch.

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Do you have constant power with the fuse box hookup or just ignition? I’m about to finally tackle this same setup this weekend, but I’m thinking of just using the Dongar adapter I have and using a mirror tap into the map lights connector for the Uniden. If I’m reading correctly for parking mode to work it needs constant power plus wifi connection. Staying in a hotel next month & trying to prepare lol

I was thinking of using more of these in the future in the rear also!
 

Azkyrie6

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Do you have constant power with the fuse box hookup or just ignition? I’m about to finally tackle this same setup this weekend, but I’m thinking of just using the Dongar adapter I have and using a mirror tap into the map lights connector for the Uniden. If I’m reading correctly for parking mode to work it needs constant power plus wifi connection. Staying in a hotel next month & trying to prepare lol

I was thinking of using more of these in the future in the rear also!
For this retractable plate holder, I placed the controller inside the engine bay and wired directly to the batteries. Though, there are fuses in the engine to tap into if you want the protection. I wanted constant power incase I forget and can just display the plates as I walk away.

Edit: Hmm my dash cam records for up to 45 seconds when parked if it senses something. Though it would make sense to have Wifi to upload the video to servers. I suppose just make sure your cam doesn't constantly or record often throughout the night? Not sure with the sensitivity on these things but that would be a possible way to drain our batteries
 

bpebler

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For this retractable plate holder, I placed the controller inside the engine bay and wired directly to the batteries. Though, there are fuses in the engine to tap into if you want the protection. I wanted constant power incase I forget and can just display the plates as I walk away.

Edit: Hmm my dash cam records for up to 45 seconds when parked if it senses something. Though it would make sense to have Wifi to upload the video to servers. I suppose just make sure your cam doesn't constantly or record often throughout the night? Not sure with the sensitivity on these things but that would be a possible way to drain our batteries
So the Garmin Mini 2 has an option, both a constant power cable that goes to battery/fuse box & they also have one that hooks up to OBD for constant power which has settings for 10 minutes, 24 hours, or non stop. Most reviews are good but those that aren’t are having those issues that I’m trying to avoid. As much as I’d like to have constant power, I don’t want it if it’s going to drain the battery.
 

SilverRocket

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I went to go pick up my back seat protectors that the dealership owed me since the were on backorder when the car arrived mid November.

Got home and I checked the condition..... Sleeping cozily, covered in my garage at 50% relative humidity at 14C (57F). I have about 10 more weeks before I have the pleasure of driving it again. πŸ˜”
 

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Azkyrie6

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So the Garmin Mini 2 has an option, both a constant power cable that goes to battery/fuse box & they also have one that hooks up to OBD for constant power which has settings for 10 minutes, 24 hours, or non stop. Most reviews are good but those that aren’t are having those issues that I’m trying to avoid. As much as I’d like to have constant power, I don’t want it if it’s going to drain the battery.
so I finally looked into what they call a constant power cable is. The Time settings are just as you mentioned.

I would opt for the one that goes straight to the battery/fuse box. Just because OBD has so many circuits and ECU running thorough it, so your adapter can glitch and get confused whether or not your car is in parking mode. Which can force it to be on when it should and drain your battery.

alternatively you can build it yourself :)

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you can have combinations of switches, limit switches to cut off power, timers (like garmin constant power), just as an example. Bit more involved but many of these functions have pre-built codes available online, then you can piece in different features. Some neat things would be like, shut off if recording for more than one hour, shut off on constant current draw detected etc. These are more small project ideas than anything.

$49 bit on the pricey side but if it’s quality and you want something simple that works. Pick the battery/fuses options with the 3 timer options.
 

Azkyrie6

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I went to go pick up my back seat protectors that the dealership owed me since the were on backorder when the car arrived mid November.

Got home and I checked the condition..... Sleeping cozily, covered in my garage at 50% relative humidity at 14C (57F). I have about 10 more weeks before I have the pleasure of driving it again. πŸ˜”
Well some of us are trucking the Integra through winter storms lol. But you’ll have at least preserved it from these harsh conditions. See you in ten weeks lol
 

bpebler

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so I finally looked into what they call a constant power cable is. The Time settings are just as you mentioned.

I would opt for the one that goes straight to the battery/fuse box. Just because OBD has so many circuits and ECU running thorough it, so your adapter can glitch and get confused whether or not your car is in parking mode. Which can force it to be on when it should and drain your battery.

alternatively you can build it yourself :)

72BE5E7D-7182-4CE6-955E-929B02083AA9.jpeg


you can have combinations of switches, limit switches to cut off power, timers (like garmin constant power), just as an example. Bit more involved but many of these functions have pre-built codes available online, then you can piece in different features. Some neat things would be like, shut off if recording for more than one hour, shut off on constant current draw detected etc. These are more small project ideas than anything.

$49 bit on the pricey side but if it’s quality and you want something simple that works. Pick the battery/fuses options with the 3 timer options.
That sounds cool! Didn’t know about that electrical customization. But you are high up in the electrical field as well. πŸ˜„

So only the OBD constant has the 3 time options for some reason, but the cheaper $35 parking mode cable looks just to have an inline fuse & box of some sort. Very little description on their website.
 

Azkyrie6

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That sounds cool! Didn’t know about that electrical customization. But you are high up in the electrical field as well. πŸ˜„

So only the OBD constant has the 3 time options for some reason, but the cheaper $35 parking mode cable looks just to have an inline fuse & box of some sort. Very little description on their website.
wow you’re right, that garmin parking mode cable has very little information. I just see a little black box with no indication of what it does. Since it has no selectable timers, go with many available options.

this is the one I have:
Dash Cam Hardwire Kit,Type-C Hard Wire Kit,USB C Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam, Plozoe 12V-24V to 5V Car Dash Camera Charger Power Cord, Gift 4 Fuse Tap Cable and Installation Tool(11.5ftοΌ‰ https://a.co/d/0drmoun

The little module is internally fused, has over voltage and under voltage protection which means as your battery depletes, the 12V will slowly decrease. The module will cut the circuit to preserve your battery so you won’t wake up empty unable to start your car.

yes you don’t get to select 24 hours but if your voltage is dropping too much, your dash cam is recording way more than it should be.

there’s options with override if you need. I think the garmin camera should be able to select motion or vibration record modes. Otherwise it’ll just constantly record if you’re parked in a busy area or some random couple decided to have sexy time on your hood all night.

Unless garmin parking mode cable has other features, seems expensive for the simple things it does

edit: nothing bout being high up in electrical world. I started as electrician because I was broke and sick of delivering Chinese food. Then I decided to go back to school because I didn’t want to climb ladders at 60 years old. It’s just a job to me to provide. We all do diff things and should share our knowledge :)
 

bpebler

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wow you’re right, that garmin parking mode cable has very little information. I just see a little black box with no indication of what it does. Since it has no selectable timers, go with many available options.

this is the one I have:
Dash Cam Hardwire Kit,Type-C Hard Wire Kit,USB C Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam, Plozoe 12V-24V to 5V Car Dash Camera Charger Power Cord, Gift 4 Fuse Tap Cable and Installation Tool(11.5ftοΌ‰ https://a.co/d/0drmoun

The little module is internally fused, has over voltage and under voltage protection which means as your battery depletes, the 12V will slowly decrease. The module will cut the circuit to preserve your battery so you won’t wake up empty unable to start your car.

yes you don’t get to select 24 hours but if your voltage is dropping too much, your dash cam is recording way more than it should be.

there’s options with override if you need. I think the garmin camera should be able to select motion or vibration record modes. Otherwise it’ll just constantly record if you’re parked in a busy area or some random couple decided to have sexy time on your hood all night.

Unless garmin parking mode cable has other features, seems expensive for the simple things it does

edit: nothing bout being high up in electrical world. I started as electrician because I was broke and sick of delivering Chinese food. Then I decided to go back to school because I didn’t want to climb ladders at 60 years old. It’s just a job to me to provide. We all do diff things and should share our knowledge :)
Good share! Definitely a penny for the Garmin stuff. I’m not sure why it even goes from 10 minutes to 24 hours. Seems a couple options in between would make sense.

Sounds we have a similar past of working up - I just chose the wrong trade of flat roofing when I should’ve followed electrical! πŸ˜‚ But it ended up being rewarding eventually - just a work from home roof spec nerd now. I hear ya with ladders - I don’t think I’d want to climb them at even 50, but I’ll find out in about 10 years I guess. πŸ˜„
 

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Azkyrie6

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Good share! Definitely a penny for the Garmin stuff. I’m not sure why it even goes from 10 minutes to 24 hours. Seems a couple options in between would make sense.

Sounds we have a similar past of working up - I just chose the wrong trade of flat roofing when I should’ve followed electrical! πŸ˜‚ But it ended up being rewarding eventually - just a work from home roof spec nerd now. I hear ya with ladders - I don’t think I’d want to climb them at even 50, but I’ll find out in about 10 years I guess. πŸ˜„
a jobs a job to me. I don’t buy into the whole β€˜status’ thing. Doesn’t matter how we get there so long as we get there, like the narrow gate. If ya know what I mean 🀣
 

bpebler

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a jobs a job to me. I don’t buy into the whole β€˜status’ thing. Doesn’t matter how we get there so long as we get there, like the narrow gate. If ya know what I mean 🀣
100% with you there! I’m definitely not a status guy or one to try to fit in/be a part of the boys club. Hard enough getting through the gate without all that to mess with. πŸ˜†
 

starman

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Do you have constant power with the fuse box hookup or just ignition? I’m about to finally tackle this same setup this weekend, but I’m thinking of just using the Dongar adapter I have and using a mirror tap into the map lights connector for the Uniden. If I’m reading correctly for parking mode to work it needs constant power plus wifi connection. Staying in a hotel next month & trying to prepare lol

I was thinking of using more of these in the future in the rear also!
Hey, so bpebler & Azkyrie6 pretty much answered the question. I've had these Garmin Mini 2's for years and has been swapped around into 3 different cars. I should upgrade to a 2k or even 4k dash, but i just like the small size and hides away nicely behind my mirror.

I actually have the Parking Mode hardwire kit both cameras, but it drained the battery on my last car. Ideally, it's best to connect the Parking cable to a portable battery and have that battery connected to the cars acc. fuse to charge it when driving.

The app itself have the "vibration" adjustment settings in the App itself. It was fine, but i suppose a firmware update might have caused it to use more battery? Either case, i'm not too worried about it. I park in a garage at home and in a private deck at work.

That said, i still used the parking hardwire kit for the front, but I just joined both Gamin's constant and acc. wires together so that it is only powered on when the car is on. (Fuse 45 i think this is)

For the rear i would have used my other parking mode kit, but i took advantage of the 12v cigarette lighter i had laying around from a previous project and just wired it via USB in the back.

The Garmin app joins both cameras together (using the timestamp) so you get Picture in Picture view option if you wish to export video that way.
 

starman

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Today I installed the overpriced Black emblems. TypeS emblems were super easy. Heat gun and a fishing line came right off. The front TypeS does NOT require bumper removal, but it is the only one that has two guide pins which the Black one does not have. It's easy enough to center it though.

Rear A mark wasn't bad either. I took a good 15 minutes figuring if I wanted to remove the black vinyl so that it's Black on Gold, vs Black on Black. Either looked good, but figured i'd try something different and I like the Black on Gold look.

Front A annoyingly is help by two Philips screws in the back. There is NO WAY to get access to those screws unless you remove the entire front bumper.

I used the AType instructions for guidance. I did everything like the manual said, every clip and bolt released. I got as far as getting it mostly off, at least enough for me to disconnect the 5 sensors. Maybe I needed two people, but the bottom was refusing to slide off and I was afraid something would break. Since the top side was partially removed already, I saw that there was enough of an opening for me to squeeze my hand in with a tiny screwdriver to unscrew the A emblem.

I held on to the two tiny screws for dear life as I know if it fell, I had no choice but to remove the bumper haha. Either case I got it on and happy with results.

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KindaACarGuy

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Front Aannoyingly is by two Philips screws in the back. There is NO WAY to get access to those screws unless you remove the entire front bumper.

I used the AType instructions for guidance. I did everything like the manual said, every clip and bolt released. I got as far as getting it mostly off, at least enough for me to disconnect the 5 sensors. Maybe I needed two people, but the bottom was refusing to slide off and I was afraid something would break. Since the top side was partially removed already, I saw that there was enough of an opening for me to squeeze my hand in with a tiny screwdriver to unscrew the A emblem.

I held on to the two tiny screws for dear life as I know if it fell, I had no choice but to remove the bumper haha. Either case I got it on and happy with results.
Good work! They look really nice. So, in the end was there something you missed on the front bumper? Did you just need to tug a little harder or have two people?
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