The thing about electronic suspensions is that the firmness settings are based off shock travel and how quickly the car needs to come back to "level". This is affected by ride height because the car thinks the shocks are all partially compressed. It's "adaptive" to the driving situation which is what makes it so good (and fast).
. I'm just surprised you weren't wearing socks and flip flops, lol.
Yes, it could get complicated rather quickly trying to find the right setup. Ill just go with gut instinct, as long as nothing catastrophic is happening, my next upgrades for the suspension is going to be caber kits and sway bars so we will see how that goes.The thing about electronic suspensions is that the firmness settings are based off shock travel and how quickly the car needs to come back to "level". This is affected by ride height because the car thinks the shocks are all partially compressed. It's "adaptive" to the driving situation which is what makes it so good (and fast).
On my gti i went through various complicated paths of spring, coilover sleeve, custom helper, and varying bump stop lengths to get around the shortened and "pre-compressed" strut problem to no avail. I even went to coils, which improved the ride, but the car was just too stiff on a monotube and I wanted to go back to adjusting with a button. Even adjusting the static starting range for the shock and resetting the system at full droop (via obd on the vw with a tool called obd eleven) didn't totally remove the crashiness at times.
It's as you say "the nature of (modifying)". There are golden goose coil setups out there, but they do cost an arm and a leg, and will take a mountain of proper tuning time to get right (and better) over stock.
Good luck in your journey
Also, hoodie and bro shorts in 60 degree weather is so Florida
seems like you've gone deeper than I have in this rabbit hole. what I mean by raggedy is that it doesn't feel OEM anymore, OEM will always be the best quality. but either way I'm happy with it
Camber changes "where" your tire wears, but it doesn't change how fast it wears. That's toe. Under compression, the wheels will toe in, which provides stability and some extra turn in on the outside wheel seeing compression through a turn. Lowering the car compresses the suspension arms in all cases, leading to alignment changes. Excess toe adds drag on the tire when cruising along.
Nah, I'll agree that it doesn't feel like it did from the factory. But for me that's a net positive... the only negative element I've experienced from any mods I've done was with the extra offset from the aftermarket wheels. I only went an extra 15mm out (+45), but instantly noticed added torque steer and slightly reduced steering feel. But not enough to offset (pardon the pun) the aesthetics.
With no camber adjustment from the factory what's the point?Nah, I'll agree that it doesn't feel like it did from the factory. But for me that's a net positive... the only negative element I've experienced from any mods I've done was with the extra offset from the aftermarket wheels. I only went an extra 15mm out (+45), but instantly noticed added torque steer and slightly reduced steering feel. But not enough to offset (pardon the pun) the aesthetics.
I'll echo the question about alignment- I want to say I recall @Integra23 saying he didn't do one.
It has adjustment. Not a ton, but it's there.
I just checked and my factory alignment had 1/8" toe in on front right. If that was lowered by say an inch, it would gain likely 0.2 degrees, or about 1/16.
