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RRP RSX-S

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Is the unit supposed to have some play in the obd2 port? While fully seated, which doesn’t seem very deep, it still has a good amount of movement from left to right. It doesn’t click in or anything.

The reason I was even messing with it is today by chance I looked down while driving and saw the little light off. Turns out I was on map 1 as well as opposed to the saved map 2. I had to unplug it and plug it back in for it to start flashing again. Hasn’t happened before or after yet. And as you “wiggle” it, the light stays flashing. So it wasn’t loose or anything. I’m not sure why it decided the one time not to connect. But it’s a bit annoying that I feel like I have to check everytime I get in now.
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Is the unit supposed to have some play in the obd2 port? While fully seated, which doesn’t seem very deep, it still has a good amount of movement from left to right. It doesn’t click in or anything.

The reason I was even messing with it is today by chance I looked down while driving and saw the little light off. Turns out I was on map 1 as well as opposed to the saved map 2. I had to unplug it and plug it back in for it to start flashing again. Hasn’t happened before or after yet. And as you “wiggle” it, the light stays flashing. So it wasn’t loose or anything. I’m not sure why it decided the one time not to connect. But it’s a bit annoying that I feel like I have to check everytime I get in now.
Yes mine also has some wiggle but I never have an issue.
 

KTuner

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We have a fairly standard size connector. Unfortunately from vehicle model to vehicle model varies a little bit on the factory connector. Fit it on as tight as you can. For instance the 10G Civic guys say it's too tight of a fit... go figure.
 

RRP RSX-S

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We have a fairly standard size connector. Unfortunately from vehicle model to vehicle model varies a little bit on the factory connector. Fit it on as tight as you can. For instance the 10G Civic guys say it's too tight of a fit... go figure.
That’s weird. What are your thoughts on the random non connect? Fluke or is the hardware possibly bad? I would think if it was bad it wouldn’t work at all. Not randomly not turn on once out of dozens of times.
 

KTuner

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I would think if it was bad it wouldn’t work at all.
You would be correct. If reseating it works then it wasn't seated all the way. If you're pulling it off and putting it back on it's not getting communication with the ECU to wake it up. They do sleep after two minutes of inactivity. The LED is off in that scenario, so check for that as well.
 

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RB2490

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Acura Integra Ktuner for 2023 Integra is live! 20220825_130855

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Finally did my little intake. Sounds good and a long drive in traffic fuel trims looks okay pretty much similar to stock. Air fuel ratios during pulls seem to sit around 10.7 which was better than the low 10s I was getting before. Today it's 94f and without an airbox a short ram suffers in this car. Knock control did shoot up today but nothing insane. Waiting for 3d printed box to finish and then once I know it's perfect I'll print out a nice one with logos and stuff.
 
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RB2490

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Ok so ever since I applied the 3d printed airbox it seems that my stft during normal driving is around -5% - -3%. But I've seen ltft go as high as -7% during highway driving but stop and go it drops back down to to -4 - -3%. Im going to make a revised airbox but my question @KTuner is if I need to revise the maf scaling should I basically check what the maf is doing during idle and cruising and since it's always negative should I be adding a positive % somewhere in the scaling to help even it out or should I be scaling negatively
 

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Never mind founds a very useful video
 

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what is reduce rev hang on the throttle response, does that disable rev hang?
 

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If the description for the item in the list indicates "w/ reduced rev hang" then rev hang is reduced. If the description does not contain "w/ reduced rev hang" then it is factory. There is no mention or indication of any levels for that.
 

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@KTuner quick question. So after more driving with the intake I made my ltft have gone up to -7 while cruising and stop and go traffic seems to level it out to -2 to 0. When im cruising my stft will hit between -7 to -5. I changed the MAF curve and i hope im doing this correctly but maf hz between 2800 -4000 and 5400-6000 seem to have the worst stft so adjusted the maf there by -3%(didnt want to get too aggresive since its my first time) and the fuel trim avg when done to -5 to -3 now when cruising but I just want to make sure im scaling in the right direction. If the fuel trims are negative pretty much all the time, I should be scaling negatively to help balance it as close to zero correct?
 

KTuner

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If you're pulling fuel in trims then you're running rich and that may be due to the changes you made. If it's indeed from the intake then the ECU thinks you're getting more air than you are, so you'd alter the MAF curve to reflect less air at the frequencies in question. Make sure you maintain the MAF curve, though, otherwise you'll have lumpy transition points. It's a nice smooth curve if you look at factory.
 

RB2490

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If you're pulling fuel in trims then you're running rich and that may be due to the changes you made. If it's indeed from the intake then the ECU thinks you're getting more air than you are, so you'd alter the MAF curve to reflect less air at the frequencies in question. Make sure you maintain the MAF curve, though, otherwise you'll have lumpy transition points. It's a nice smooth curve if you look at factory.
Always appreciate your help and input. Honestly my car has been pulling fuel since I got it. If the car thinks it's getting more air than it really is does that mean the intake is possibly robbing me of power?
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