Post your delivery pics here!

[TeggyS]

I am a bit undecided on the blacked out A badge….I thought it would look look on a blk/blk ITS, but I just saw A-spec on the road with blacked out badges and it honestly didn’t look that good in a distance since I almost couldn’t make out the shape of the A from just 3 cars behind. But they looked good up close…

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[eculley]

I am a bit undecided on the blacked out A badge….I thought it would look look on a blk/blk ITS, but I just saw A-spec on the road with blacked out badges and it honestly didn’t look that good in a distance since I almost couldn’t make out the shape of the A from just 3 cars behind. But they looked good up close…

Blk/Blk owner here as well. Chrome emblems with silver wheels later down the line is my plan. Originally wanted to "murder" out the car with the black badges but changed my mind.

 

[Lflouie]

First off....what a stunning color...especially with the wheels.

As far as options go with this color and wheels, I actually like the silver stock "A" emblems as a contrast and brand identifier. The wing is pleasing but drilling and patching is not something I will have done to my car. Since I'm not planning on adding any CF, the mirror covers will remain body color, and it will be either stock spoiler or drop in replacement with aftmkt unit. I had the same shift knob in my S2000 and disliked it for a few reasons...temperature variations (hot), slightly smaller and lighter than I preferred, color seems "out of place". I will do partial ppf on frt fenders, hood, and bumpers as well as on rear fender flair extensions, all door sills and rear trunk/bumper access area..

Cheers on a very nice looking ITS, well done.

 

[bpebler]

I think if the background were color matched it might be a better look. But nothings perfect I guess.

On the rear black emblem, I'm told you can "peel" the black "sticker" off to expose your paint color behind it to do exactly this.

 

[Barehands]

On the rear black emblem, I'm told you can "peel" the black "sticker" off to expose your paint color behind it to do exactly this.

I’m guessing that’s what this guy did with his huh. I’m still undecided though, the chrome gives a sort of classy look too

 

[Lflouie]

That does look good, and integrates well with the other black accents. Is their the same option on the front "black out" emblem?

 

[bpebler]

I’m guessing that’s what this guy did with his huh. I’m still undecided though, the chrome gives a sort of classy look too

Yes, that's the same guys car actually.

 

[bpebler]

That does look good, and integrates well with the other black accents. Is their the same option on the front "black out" emblem?

Only the rear shows the paint color behind it.

 

[Negitoro7]

Only the rear shows the paint color behind it.

Makes sense, the background is black anyway (the grill) for the front badge. I’d be undecided whether to get the black badges or hold out for aftermarket red badges (if getting Platinum White Pearl). Likely doing the black badges if I end up going with Apex Blue Pearl.

 

[Airbag]

Took delivery July 3rd @ MSRP from Santa Barbara Acura! Great dealership experience!
The sun is finally out!!
Only extras are the Type S all season floor mats and trunk tray.

 

[m.c.ricks.ITS]

Picked mine up today. Was running late for everything. Before and after with tint. 15 back doors and 50 fronts. Will post pics after ceramic coating.

 

[Azkyrie6]

A word of caution on doing your paint correction or ppf to soon on a brand new car.

Since the ITS is built in the US the car does not experience the usual 4-6 week transportation cycle for offshore cars to arrive at the show room. Paint should not be filmed nor paint corrected until it is hardened and most paint shops and ppf installers suggest 60 days of curing (ideally in a warm environment) before application and paint correction.

I have used both of these products and a cleaner ( approx $120 on AUTO Geek). These are larger bottles, so if you can get a 35 or 50 ml size you can do the entire car and rims for even less $$.

For those that haven't done ceramic coating it is not hard to do, if you mess it up you can easily polish it out so don't be intimidated about the application process for either of these.

The critical element is the paint correction ....just like any paint job it's the prep that makes or breaks the final outcome.

If you aren't experienced in correcting minor imperfections, they are usually pretty easy on a new car, but with today's modern paints which are thinner, softer and less forgiving than paint used on earlier (pre 2015) cars. If this part of the process is concerning, seek out some one that will do a simple overall light paint correction. This is basically an hourly rate kind of job, and shouldn't take more 2-3 hrs on a new car.

If you are going to ppf any sections on the car, do the ppf after the paint correction but before the ceramic coating. Then ceramic coat film and paint.

The ppf patterns (from machine cut patterns) aren't available yet for the type S ( as of today) so until they are, it will require a custom (cut to car) application which is more time consuming and $$$.

No matter which way you go, let the paint harden for 2 months before correction or ppf.

What exactly would the ramifications be for applying PPF without waiting for paint to harden for two months?

 

[Lflouie]

What exactly would the ramifications be for applying PPF without waiting for paint to harden for two months?

The two elements mentioned (ppf, paint correction) each with a different issue but both deal with ensuring a strong bond of the paint to the underlying material.

The nature of automobile paint started changing around 2010, shifting to "water based" paints. These paints are inherently "softer" after they dry (less durable), applied in thinner layers (less paint thickness), and are now increasingly applied to plastic, aluminum and steel with each material having different surface characteristics, texture and bonding strength.

Paints must adhere (bond) to the different materials and the bond strength is not uniform. While the paint will "dry" and for practical purposes appears the same, the paint adhesion strength is not. One of the key considerations is to allow enough time for paint to adhere to smooth texture surfaces (plastic), moderately smooth smooth texture ( aluminum), and steel ( most texture). It is the texture which increases the bond strength by allowing the paint to " anchor" into micro surface textures. Primer coat is the initial bond but surface texture also affects the next step of the paint bond.

When paint correcting, the process is basically correcting "defects" and inconsistencies in the paint. There is really only one way to remove a surface condition during this process, removing the defect by blending (polishing), which means removing paint to minimize the irregular surface that is reflecting light off of the edges of the scratch or uneven surface defect.

Since auto paints are thinner they are more susceptible to excessive paint removal during polishing. Because today's cars painted surfaces now include plastic, steel and may have aluminum, they have different paint bond strengths, making those panels more or less susceptible to inconsisent paint removal during the same polishing technique (pressure, speed, compound) due to bond strength and paint thickness variations.

The key point is that time and temperature enables the paint to achieve its maximum bond strength and most auto mfgrs have eliminated (or drastically shortened) elevated temp paint drying from their manufacturing processes. Paint mfgrs and most paint shops recommend not doing any surface treatment for 30-60 days after application.

PPF provides a "temporary" surface bond btwn the film and the paint to provide an additional replaceable several mm thick plastic overlay. It is designed to be "semi- permanent" but completely reversible.

Like paint, the effectiveness of the PPF is in the quality of the bond to the paint. If the quality of the paint bond to the panels is poor and the bond of the ppf to the paint is equal to or greater, the paint bond to panel can fail first if the ppf ever needs to be replaced or removed.

This is the reason that most paint and ppf mgrs recommend 60 days to ensure optimal paint surface bonds. (Note: some mfgrs place a protective coating on their headlight lens and those should not get ppf bc it can/will strip off the protective coating if ppf is removed).

So why do people buy a new car and immediately have this work done?

In many cases the cars have had an extended delivery cycle. Cars produced in Europe or Asia tend to have a 4-6 wk transportation cycle, including time at ports on both sides of the ocean, rail or truck delivery to dealer, dealer prep and purchase cycle....so by the time the owner gets the car the 30-60 day period is nearly complete.

In our case, the ITS is made in the US and arrives at the dealer within 2-3 wks, and is probably sold immediately. If the owner waits another month before the paint correction and ppf they will optimize the paint bond and eliminate the potential of self induced damage.

Note: plastic has the lowest paint bond strength of the 3 materials and is the most susceptible.

Dealer "spray on" or wash on ceramic coatings do not affect paint bonds bc it is a limited duration treatment. It is fine if you wish to have this protection to protect paint while awaiting your paint correction and or ppf application.....but remember it all needs to be removed during the paint correction otherwise the ppf or a ceramic coating may not adhere uniformly.

These are usually pricey ($1000 paint/ interior protection pkgs) when all they are doing to the paint is using a $30 bottle of ceramic finishing spray....which the owner could do themselves.

 

[Azkyrie6]

The two elements mentioned (put, paint correction) each with a different issue but both deal with ensuring a strong bond of the paint to the underlying material.

The nature of automobile paint started changing around 2010, shifting to "water based" paints. These paints are inherently "softer" after they dry (less durable), applied in thinner layers (less paint thickness), and are now increasingly applied to plastic, aluminum and steel with each material having different surface characteristics, texture and bonding strength.

Paints must adhere (bond) to the different materials and the bond strength is not uniform. While the paint will "dry" and for practical purposes appears the same, the paint adhesion strength is not. One of the key considerations is to allow enough time for paint to adhere to smooth texture surfaces (plastic), moderately smooth smooth texture ( aluminum), and steel ( most texture). It is the texture which increases the bond strength by allowing the paint to " anchor" into micro surface textures. Undercoating is the initial bond but surface texture also affects the next step of the paint bond.

When paint correcting, the process is basically correcting "defects" and inconsistencies in the paint. There is really only one way to remove a surface condition during this process, removing the defect by blending (polishing), which means removing paint to minimize the irregular surface that is reflecting light off of the edges of the scratch or uneven surface defect.

Since auto paints are thinner they are more susceptible to excessive paint removal during polishing. Because today's cars painted surfaces now include plastic, steel and may have aluminum, they have different paint bond strengths, making those panels more or less susceptible to inconsisent paint removal during the same polishing technique (pressure, speed, compound) due to bond strength and panit thickness variations.

The key point is that time and temperature enables the paint to achieve its maximum bond strength and most auto mfgrs have eliminated (or drastically shortened) elevated temp paint drying from their manufacturing processes. Paint mfgrs and most paint shops recommend not doing any surface treatment for 30-60 days after application.

PPF provides a "temporary" surface bond btwn the film and the paint to provide an additional replaceable several mm thick plastic overlay. It is designed to be "semi- permanent" but completely reversible.

Like paint, the effectiveness of the PPF is in the quality of the bond to the paint. If the quality of the paint bond to the panels is poor and the bond of the ppf to the paint is equal to or greater, the paint bond to panel can fail first if the ppf ever needs to be replaced or removed.

This is the reason that most paint and ppf mgrs recommend 60 days to ensure optimal paint surface bonds. (Note: some mfgrs place a protective coating on their headlight lens and those should not get ppf bc it can/will strip off the protective coating if ppf is removed).

So why do people buy a new car and immediately have this work done?

In many cases the cars have a had an extended deliver cycle. Cars produced in Europe or Asia tend to have a 4-6 wk transportation cycle, including time at ports on both sides of the ocean, rail or truck delivery to dealer, dealer prep and purchase cycle....so by the time the owner gets the car the 30-60 day period is nearly complete.

In our case, the ITS is made in the US and arrives at the dealer within 2-3 wks, and is probably sold immediately. If the owner waits another month before the paint correction and ppf they will optimize the paint bond and eliminate the potential of self induced damage.

Note: plastic has the lowest paint bond strength of the 3 materials and is the most susceptible.

Dealer "spray on" or wash ceramic coatings do not affect paint bonds bc it is a limited duration treatment. It is fine if you wish to have this protection to protect paint while awaiting your paint correction and or ppf application.....but remember it all needs to be removed during the paint correction otherwise the ppf or a ceramic coating may not adhere uniformly.

These are usually pricey ($1000 paint/ interior protection pkgs) when all they are doing to the paint is using a $30 bottle of ceramic finishing spray....which the owner could do themselves.

This is such an informative reply, thank you

 

[Lflouie]

This is such an informative reply, thank you

Thanks! One person's "Informative" is another's "Novel". Pleased it helped.

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