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Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires

RCX

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Why 18-Inch Wheels Could Harm the Civic Type R's Handling
Ditching the Civic Type R's 20-inch factory wheels for aftermarket 18s? You might end up with a worse handling car.

Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires da-civic-type-r-us-version-2017-1600-0a-1498671885


Wheels have gotten bigger over the years, and even compact sports cars like the Honda Civic Type R now come with 20-inchers. There's recently been discussion about how 18-inch wheels might improve the look and feel of the car. Thing is, such modifications need to be approached in a calculated manner as they can often make a car handle worse.

Smaller wheels will usually weigh less, which translates into less rotational mass and, occasionally, a better handling car. But if the wheel and tire selection is not approached with suspension setup in mind, it can make the car handle or steer worse. This is especially important when it comes to the Civic Type R, as Honda specifically designed the suspension to prevent torque steer.

To understand how the Type R mitigates torque steer, you need to understand tire scrub radius and the kingpin (or steering) axis. The kingpin axis on something like the Civic Type R extends from the highest pivot point (the upper balljoint) to the lowest pivot point in the suspension (the lower balljoint). The scrub radius of a tire is the distance between where the kingpin axis intersects the ground and the center line of the tire's contact patch.

In high-torque front-drive cars, the goal is to get these two points very close to each other, without overlapping—a car with zero scrub radius can have a lot of tire squirm and handle strangely. Many modern cars, especially those that are front-wheel-drive, actually have negative scrub. This type of setup usually requires less steering effort and often helps to counteract torque steer in cars like the Civic Type R.

Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires civicvsctr-png-1545854072


Compared to the standard Civic, Honda was able to bring the steering axis closer to the wheel center line in order to minimize the tire scrub radius in the Type R. That angle is narrower because the kingpin axis is much closer to being parallel with the tire center line.

Wheels and tires are an important part of this equation since the center line of the contact patch changes as wheel offset and tire size are changed. In the case of the Civic Type R, changing to the 18-inch wheel in the Instagram post above would cause a positive tire scrub value. That likely means an increase in torque steer along with changes in handling.

Using the excellent suspension calculator at Racing Aspirations gives us a rough estimate of what the stock setup on the Type R looks like compared to the 18-inch setup shown above, as well as another popular wheel and tire combination for the Type R: the 19-inch front wheels and tires from the Acura NSX.

We know some measurements for the Type R's factory wheel and tire, along with track width and factory camber settings, and we'll estimate the other measurements to get a general idea of how each wheel and tire combination works. We will start with -2 mm of scrub radius for the factory setup, a 20x8.5 wheel with an ET60 offset and a 245/30R20 tire.
Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires scrub-comparison-1545928175


If we enter the details for the Desmond wheel and Advan tire shown in this Instagram post, we see that the 18x9.5 ET45 wheel and 265/35R18 tire combination alters a lot of measurements. The ride height goes down by 7 mm and the track width increases by 30 mm. Our scrub radius goes from -2 mm to +11 mm, a pretty significant change that's highly likely to induce extra steering effort along with more torque steer.

Going to the option of the 19x8.5 ET55 Acura NSX wheel with its stock 245/35R19 tire seems to be a better option, though it's not optimal either. Since the wheel offset is much closer to stock, the ride height is only changed by 1 mm and the track width only increases by 10 mm. Our scrub radius is again positive, but this time it only goes up to +4mm.

Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires -btcc-honda-civic-type-r-breaks-cover-1-1519758750


A common response to criticism of downsizing wheels on a Type R is that even Honda runs an 18-inch wheel on its TCR touring car. While you can run an 18-inch wheel on the Civic Type R and have it perform as well or better than the stock 20-inch setup, it requires the wheel size and offset to be proportional to the original setup. In the case of the race car, the rest of the suspension is also modified, adding things like adjustable dampers and sway bars, so there is really no comparison. Even if all of that wasn’t the case, the TCR technical regulations don’t allow a wheel any bigger than 18x10, so the stock wheel could not be used anyway.

The most optimal combination for a street car would be a wheel and tire combination that doesn't alter the suspension geometry at all. Something like the NSX wheel would be perfect with just a little more offset, and even the aftermarket 18-inch combination could work if the offset was increased to around ET60 and if tire size was changed to something like a 245/40R18.

Checking through various OEM and aftermarket options, the only downsized wheel for sale right now that offers a perfect match for the OEM Type R wheel is the 19x8.5 wheel that came on the previous generation Type R, as it has the same ET60 offset. Paired with a 245/35R19 tire, it is basically a perfect match for the original setup. The scrub radius would only go down by 1 mm. That should be an imperceptible change. This wheel is about three pounds lighter than the 20-inch wheel, so it'll save some weight along with adding more sidewall.

Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires 1488849517-ctr


There are many aftermarket vendors that are offering wheels for the Civic Type R, and some even claim that theirs are designed specifically for this car. But after looking through many of the options, it appears that a lot of the wheels were originally made for BMWs with the same 5x120 lug pattern. This is very apparent when you look at the offsets, as many OEM BMW wheels fall into that ET43 to ET48 offset range.
Our calculations here are simplified, but they show how chassis tuning can be greatly affected by seemingly small changes. All variables of the suspension and tires should be considered when making any aftermarket upgrades. Once you start digging in, even smaller variables like the flex of the tire sidewall can affect the overall result. You really need to consult someone knowledgeable about chassis setup if you want the maximum performance from your car.

So, even though an 18-inch wheel might be lighter, it may not necessarily make the car perform better. Choose your wheels carefully so you don’t unwind all the suspension setup that was done by the Honda engineers.
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Great find. I've been saying this since I noticed the trend. I don't want to do ANYTHING that impacts the driving dynamics of this car. 18s seems to be a pretty radical approach to this. Might be fine for driving back and forth to the mall or kids' soccer practice, but I feel like this would be a dramatic change for the types of driving I actually bought this car for.

Also to my eyes, 18s look ridiculous on the DE5. They're passable on the FL5 but still too much tire for my liking. I've thought since reveal that as good as the DE5 looks, it does have some unflattering angles, the 18s just exacerbate this by not a small amount. YMMV, but I'll be getting 19s in as-close-to-factory-offset as possible- if I end up getting aftermarket wheels at all.
 
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RCX

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OEM:

19 x 9.5 +60

265/30 R19 Michelin PS4S

I posted this article as refence info for those looking at aftermarket wheels.

Keep scrub radius as close to stock as possible for performance.

Some will change wheels for look and stance and not mind some slight degradation of handling.

For my winter setup I wont worry about offset, not going to push the car with winter tires on it so its just about price and looks.
 

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I noticed some pretty negative handling changes swapping to the “conservative” 18x9.5 +45 setup on my FL5. I ended up going back to stock and prefer how the car handles.

I also picked up a set of Integra Type S wheels to run for the winter since I wanted stock width and offset. There are very few options in 5x120 currently that make sense for these cars.
 

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I noticed some pretty negative handling changes swapping to the “conservative” 18x9.5 +45 setup on my FL5. I ended up going back to stock and prefer how the car handles.

I also picked up a set of Integra Type S wheels to run for the winter since I wanted stock width and offset. There are very few options in 5x120 currently that make sense for these cars.
This is a great idea and there are probably tons of wheels available for anyone who went with/was forced to take the copper wheels on their ITS. Win-win for folks who have extra wheels laying around, and folks who want factory offsets for winter sets.

Personally I'm swapping out for all seasons on the OEM wheels because I've just found the climate here in Maryland doesn't justify dedicated winter tires. The plan is tentatively to land on a set of aftermarket wheels for the summer and put Cup2s/RE-71RS on them. But I'm apprehensive about messing with the offset, even though I would love the car to look just a bit better. I spend more time and enjoyment driving it than looking at it.
 

ITS_320

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I noticed some pretty negative handling changes swapping to the “conservative” 18x9.5 +45 setup on my FL5. I ended up going back to stock and prefer how the car handles.
If you don't mind, could you give more detail here on what you did not like? I've been eyeing a set of 18x9.5 +45s but I have held off due to reading about scrub radius years ago on FK8s and knowing it also impacts FL5/DE5 platforms as well.
 

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Does anyone know if lowering springs will have the same detrimental effect on scrub radius?
 

ender_ong

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Wanted to throw my opinion in here that the FL5 forged accessory wheel would be a good choice for those that want added performance (lighter + stronger) while maintaining optimum offset and wheel size; I also think they look great (minus the laser-etched “Type R” on one spoke face 🥲)

this would’ve been perfect 🤌😚

Acura Integra Old R&T article about Type R front suspension set up and effects of aftermarket wheel and tires You_Doodle_2023-09-29T00_35_59Z
 

ITS_320

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Completely agree on the forged OEM wheels from the FL5. The only reason I haven't bought a set is the Type R etching. If it was just a sticker, I'd go for it and just carefully remove it but the laser etching is a bit more permanent.

I'm bummed we can't find more 18 inch wheels in the 50-55 offset range. I'm just not sold on getting a +45 set at this point and I'm running out of time as November gets here.
 

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If you don't mind, could you give more detail here on what you did not like? I've been eyeing a set of 18x9.5 +45s but I have held off due to reading about scrub radius years ago on FK8s and knowing it also impacts FL5/DE5 platforms as well.
These are my feelings after running 18x9.5 +45 TE37 wheels on my FL5.

Pros:
  • Comfort is better. I didn't feel the need to get an Integra Type S ADS unit anymore. +R suspension mode was able to be used on the street. If you swap to 18" wheels on your Type S you will likely want to get a Type R ADS unit.
  • Steering felt lighter overall. This could have been due to the lighter wheels compared to stock as they were about 7lbs lighter per corner. To get the same steering weight as Sport mode I had to go to +R for steering. I do not enjoy the heavy steering in +R with the stock wheels and tires.
  • Acceleration was improved. Most likely due to the lighter wheels and tires.
Cons:
  • Torque steer was worse, especially on uneven pavement. If I had to give it a % difference from memory I would say 10-15% more. Completely subjective though.
  • Turn-in felt sloppy. The tires I chose were Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 which might have a softer sidewall than the stock Michelin tires in 18" size. Compared to the stock setup the steering felt "loose" compared to the direct on rails experience of stock steering especially with mid corner corrections.
  • I can't describe exactly why but in corners the car felt less confidence inspiring. This could be due to the sidewall flex of 35 series 18" tires instead of 30 series 19" tires.
  • +45 will throw rocks and sand at your rear bumper and side skirts. I noticed significantly more rock chips on these surfaces in the 1 month I was running them. I thought I was being conservative with this offset and less aggressive tires but it was pretty terrible. PPF on the edge or rock guards should be a requirement with this offset.
I think that these wheels could be made to work but you will likely need more suspension modifications to compensate for the scrub radius change. Maybe 200 treadwear stiff sidewall tires would be better. I've never owned a car where changing to a more aggressive offset than stock was so detrimental to the handling.

I was still on stock springs/suspension and factory alignment when these were installed. I have since returned to the stock FL5 wheels and prefer them.
 
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ITS_320

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+45 will throw rocks and sand at your rear bumper and side skirts. I noticed significantly more rock chips on these surfaces in the 1 month I was running them. I thought I was being conservative with this offset and less aggressive tires but it was pretty terrible. PPF on the edge or rock guards should be a requirement with this offset.
Thank you! That's the kind of feedback and detail I was looking for. I've been looking at every +45 offset picture I can find on FL5/DE5 cars and I have to admit, even with the OEM rock guards it does look like there will be more sling down the side of the car. I know a few other members said it wasn't bad but I already notice little rocks and sand peppering the side of my door with the OEM PS4S tires and wheels on the car, so I've been pretty concerned about going to a +45 fitment. You basically made my mind up on this and I'm going to either get a 2nd set of stock wheels or I'll just have my all seasons mounted and deal with a re-install of the PS4S next spring.

Thanks again for taking the time to detail this, very valuable feedback IMO.:thumbsup:
 
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nix6speed

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Wanted to throw my opinion in here that the FL5 forged accessory wheel would be a good choice for those that want added performance (lighter + stronger) while maintaining optimum offset and wheel size; I also think they look great (minus the laser-etched “Type R” on one spoke face 🥲)
I know the Type-R is etched into the wheel but can an Acura center cap be fitted?
 

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Does anyone know if lowering springs will have the same detrimental effect on scrub radius?
My experience is that lowering almost any car changes the scrub radius and kingpin centerline relative to the center of the tire when comparing before and after in the static position.

This Honda suspension design makes virtually any change to tires, wheels, wheel spacers and ride height a questionable choice if your primary goal is handling and grip. It is true that if one can balance all the variables and get very close to the OEM setup it would work, but it is a significant challenge. The question is how much is too much, unfortunately trial and error is the only answer, and it will vary by driver.

Remember that tires wear so there is a slight change in ride height as a tire wears out (maybe - 7 mm on ride height) which likely has undetectable affects. A lowering spring is likely 4 to 5 times as much ride height reduction, and tire dia difference can be large btwn 18" and 19" as well as between tire brands and models within a brand for the same size tires.

In the case of the CTR and ITS, I feel Honda's suspension design and wheel and tire package is best left unchanged for most users caring about handling.
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