Strange ticking noise

[Victorofhavoc]

Production of the MY2024 ITS ramped up in May 2023 and the first cars were delivered to customers in June of 2023. The cars are made in batches of 50-100 ITS all in the same color and each car moves through the factory, from start to completion, in a few days. The line then switches to other models or other colors and they cycle.

From the data Acura put out in press releases, they produced and sold 1871 ITS cars during 2023, and we know in that time period they were selling fast. So if your VIN is higher than 1800-1900, the car definitely wasn't made any earlier than late 2023. By mid 2024, they were past 3000 and stopped production of MY24 cars in late summer, at 3983 units total. (MY25 production ramped up in August 2024).

The date on the doorjamb sticker will show the month of production and that has been accurate for every car I have seen, based on how we know the VINS progress. So that will pin down, within 30 days, when the car was produced/completed and give you a pretty good idea how old the factory brake fluid was when you took delivery.

Yes, I agree, but the sticker doesn't go on the car until it's "complete".

It's not outside the realm of reason that certain cars were produced partially and sat for some time, especially since they started with the base Integra shell and had to wait for the transmissions to be shipped in from Japan.

That said, if they legitimately made the car in 90 days and then shipped to dealers (mine is 10 hrs from the factory or so) within 2 months, I can't imagine how that much debris made it under the spoiler and the brake fluid was that brown.

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[Krazydan19]

Speaking of all this brakes any buddy have a home brake bleeding vacuum kit they recommend. All this stuff makes me think it’s time to swap fluid maybe to motul 660 fluid to go at the paragon P3 pad pads.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Speaking of all this brakes any buddy have a home brake bleeding vacuum kit they recommend. All this stuff makes me think it’s time to swap fluid maybe to motul 660 fluid to go at the paragon P3 pad pads.

Skip the 660. It's way too sensitive to water. Just bleeding it on a humid day can dramatically affect its performance. Even in my racecar I run the rbf600 and it's solid. I run the 600 in the its and it's great, but like all higher boiling point fluids, it needs a minimum yearly flush. Ime with 660, it needs bleeding every 3 months to stay stable.

I use the motive bleeder and a universal cap that fits the acura mc which I got off Amazon. I don't fill the motive with fluid because it's both wasteful and has led to worn gaskets in the unit. Instead, I use a metal syringe (can get one from target) to draw the fluid out of the mc, and use the motive to only create pressure on the mc. Works well.

Don't forget the clutch shares the mc with the brakes, so the last step is to bleed the clutch. It does not like pressure, so bleed it the manual way.

 

[Krazydan19]

Skip the 660. It's way too sensitive to water. Just bleeding it on a humid day can dramatically affect its performance. Even in my racecar I run the rbf600 and it's solid. I run the 600 in the its and it's great, but like all higher boiling point fluids, it needs a minimum yearly flush. Ime with 660, it needs bleeding every 3 months to stay stable.

I use the motive bleeder and a universal cap that fits the acura mc which I got off Amazon. I don't fill the motive with fluid because it's both wasteful and has led to worn gaskets in the unit. Instead, I use a metal syringe (can get one from target) to draw the fluid out of the mc, and use the motive to only create pressure on the mc. Works well.

Don't forget the clutch shares the mc with the brakes, so the last step is to bleed the clutch. It does not like pressure, so bleed it the manual way.

Which motive bleeder? I see a few
I see a gold and a silver bottle of the rbf600 is there a difference?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Which motive bleeder? I see a few
I see a gold and a silver bottle of the rbf600 is there a difference?

They changed the label a couple years ago; the grey is the new color. Same fluid.

It doesn't really matter which motive. I have the black label euro one since I wanted the aluminum spin on head for my German cars, but I also bought the Nissan style spin on later that's plastic and it works fine.

This is the adapter I got for the acura: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYXAXS5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Definitely rub some fluid on the o rings before trying it on, because it's a tight squeeze otherwise and if it's not totally on, it can pop off when you double atmosphere.

Fittings and hoses can easily be found at your local home depot racing.

 

[Krazydan19]

They changed the label a couple years ago; the grey is the new color. Same fluid.

It doesn't really matter which motive. I have the black label euro one since I wanted the aluminum spin on head for my German cars, but I also bought the Nissan style spin on later that's plastic and it works fine.

This is the adapter I got for the acura: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYXAXS5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Definitely rub some fluid on the o rings before trying it on, because it's a tight squeeze otherwise and if it's not totally on, it can pop off when you double atmosphere.

Fittings and hoses can easily be found at your local home depot racing.

Looks like you got all the stuff. I’ve just been getting back in the game been driving electric cars for to long need build up my tool chest.

thanks for the tips

 

[Dabills80]

I think I have the exact same noise on my Integra with the CVT and it's driving me nuts. I'm going to take it to the dealership in a few weeks when I go in for an oil change but will be keeping an eye on this thread.

 

[s219]

Yes, I agree, but the sticker doesn't go on the car until it's "complete".

It's not outside the realm of reason that certain cars were produced partially and sat for some time, especially since they started with the base Integra shell and had to wait for the transmissions to be shipped in from Japan.

That said, if they legitimately made the car in 90 days and then shipped to dealers (mine is 10 hrs from the factory or so) within 2 months, I can't imagine how that much debris made it under the spoiler and the brake fluid was that brown.

Savagegeese did a video showing the ITS production line and they covered a lot of this. The way the factories operate now with JIT processes, there is hardly any inventory / storage or downtime. Raw parts/materials come in and then come out as a finished vehicle in a matter of hours or days. So you can count on the various date stickers/codes to be pretty accurate.

My car still had plastic on the seats and other interior parts with date code labels, and dated stickers on some of the glass. There was also a date code on the window sticker, and then the dealer put an inventory tag on the windshield with a date code. I found a big 11x17 sheet of paper on the passenger side floor with date codes and bar codes from various parts of assembly and QA. And then the front and rear bumpers had small stickers on them (about the size of a stamp) with a date code. I am sure all of these stickers and papers are probably gone by the time most customers get their cars but mine had them all since I requested they not wash the car or do any prep. There was only about 8 days difference between the various date codes and when the car showed up at the dealer in Virginia.

Even though my car was fairly quick to arrive, it was so dirty, I had to use a separate bucket to wash out the doorjambs, hatch and trunk wells, and even the fuel filler well before I did a proper wash on the outside, and that first bucket of water was nasty. There was a thick layer of crud and dust in all those locations that defied belief. Dirty water weeped out from under the spoiler so I am sure the underside will be pretty nasty if I ever peek under there. I don't know where in the process the car got so dirty, but it looked like a barn find that had been lost for 20+ years.

The other interesting thing in the video is that the ITS unibody and stampings have some unique features and changes from the regular Integra, so they are not directly sharing bodies / shells from the regular Integra. The ITS gets additional unibody bracing and stiffening, and the entire back end of the unibody is different to accommodate the ITS suspension setup and geometry. One of the upshots of that is that the spare tire well on the ITS is much shallower than the standard Integra. All of these changes mirror differences between standard Civics and the Type R. One exception is that the Type R gets unique stampings for the flared rear fenders, but the ITS makes do with those snap-on plastic flares.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

... but it looked like a barn find that had been lost for 20+ years...

My last car shipped from overseas wasn't this bad. I just can't imagine where the crud came from or where the fluid got so gross.

I will say, I like savagegeese but a marketing tool is a marketing tool. If all that is to be taken at face value, then something else very wrong is happening during build to have that much dust and dirty brake fluid. Fluid should be a sealed system... So was it already used, contaminated, or old when they filled it at the factory?

I don't know, and all I can do is speculate... But it's not right.

 

[s219]

My last car shipped from overseas wasn't this bad. I just can't imagine where the crud came from or where the fluid got so gross.

I will say, I like savagegeese but a marketing tool is a marketing tool. If all that is to be taken at face value, then something else very wrong is happening during build to have that much dust and dirty brake fluid. Fluid should be a sealed system... So was it already used, contaminated, or old when they filled it at the factory?

I don't know, and all I can do is speculate... But it's not right.

For sure, but it fits in with a lot of other half-assed stuff on the car. I have been a long time Honda fan and the build quality of this car has me disappointed. I am glad it drives so well -- I really enjoy it a lot and that is the saving grace.

Miata NDs have had transmission failures on the 22-24 models, and Mazda has been instructing dealers to flush the factory fill gear oil out of the replacement transmissions before they are installed in the car. From some of the clues people have gathered and info from dealers, it sounds like the factory gear oil tanks were contaminated and they were putting that crap into the transmissions for several years. Could also be a problem with machining debris/swarf inside the case. Either way, that is an embarrassing problem. Some people went through 2-3 transmissions before Mazda apparently addressed the root cause in late 2024.

 

[whtciv2k]

At least calipers are not Brembos (otherwise they would probably say so on the spec page). Maybe pads are...

Only the fronts have brembo calipers. The rears are likely the same as the aspec and lower trims. I don’t think they need to be, the car stops very well. What Honda/acura doesn’t advertise is that the cars induce inside wheel braking on the rears to help with turns. Took me a while to figure this out as I always felt like the car behaves almost rwd. This also causes the rears to wear quicker if you enjoy spirited driving.

 

[Krazydan19]

Well, I put the stock wheels on to go in for the service recall and sure enough the noise is now gone. ? Now I’m really confused…

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Well, I put the stock wheels on to go in for the service recall and sure enough the noise is now gone. ? Now I’m really confused…

Were your wheels torqued correctly before?

Could the rotor have been pressed at a slight angle with the wheel, leading to a wobble and noise?

What did the brakes look like when you swapped wheels? What was the tire wear like?

 

[Krazydan19]

Were your wheels torqued correctly before?

Could the rotor have been pressed at a slight angle with the wheel, leading to a wobble and noise?

What did the brakes look like when you swapped wheels? What was the tire wear like?

Torched corrrect and checked them too. Wheels looked perfect nothing rubbing pads looked lower in rear but not gone. I ended up changing my appointment when I got there after he told me it would be 6 hours rather the 2 hours I was told. Will know in couple weeks if they find something. I don’t know. They had 3 type s on the lot. All on black interior

 

[anid0419]

mine had this issue, likely it was from the floating disk. Took the wheel off, properly clean the contact surface and the noise is now gone, try that first maybe

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