Type S wheel option

[cqrrlm]

I am probably in the minority but I do not like the black painted wheels on my type s-- much prefer silver machined or polished. In shopping for an extra set I am confused by offset, backspacing, bore size etc. When I load my car in any wheel websites, all have wheels available 19 by 9.5 and 5 by 120 ,but none with the same offset and hub bore of the factory type s wheel-- 19 by 9.5, bolt 5 by 120, 60mm offset, hub bore size 64.1mm. I assume it is important to have same offset and hub bore? Is there a range that is acceptable and not cause any problems? thanks for guidance. Also anyone paint their wheels? I may go that route

Sponsored

 

[nawfoo]

those rims run hub centric adapters. Not worth it in my opinion. keep on finding a set that will bolt up directly.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Generally safe with offsets as low as +38, especially if you're not lowering the car.

I do like having a hub centric wheel, (Apex wheels) but have run many wheels on other cars with hub-centric spacers, without issue, even at the track. I get it's not the best, but plenty of folks run them, especially on the street. Depending on how much you want to spend, that may be your only option.

 

[Frenzal]

Try this site. You'll be able to compare exactly where new wheels/tires would be compared to OE.

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

 

[elh0102]

The hub centric adapters work fine if needed. And yes, the factory +60 offset is relatively more important in this car than most. It you read the design details of the dual axis front suspension, you will find that the wheel offset is important in isolating the steering and damper axis from each other, a key design goal. If you are more interested in "the look", then obviously that is your choice. The suspension engineers put a lot of development work in coming up with probably the best strut suspension around. It makes sense to me to take advantage of their good work. I wish they had used 18" wheels, but there are some available in 18X9.5 with the correct offset.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

If you ever plan to autox, the wheel needs to be within 7mm of factory offset, like the apex forged wheel that's 53 offset to keep within stock class.

There are very few options out there that are within the "correct" offset. I would personally avoid going more than 10mm difference because it does reduce steering feel and increase torque steer, but a lot of people go lower for looks and seem to be happy or just deal with it.

I wouldn't be afraid of a machined aluminum hub ring. I use them on my (bmw spec) ec7 apex wheels, and I've glued mine in so I can stop worrying about losing them or ham-bending them on.

Remember that changing width needs offset changes as well. A 10.5" wide wheel would need a 47mm offset to maintain the same backpacking (distance from inner edge of rim to hub face). So the apex vs5rs in an 18x10.5 +47 maintains a much more similar geometry to stock while still giving the "poke" that people like to see.

If you can't find what you're looking for from existing options, you could always try forgestar or other custom forged wheels. They'll build to your exact spec.

 

[BillB128]

Any body shop would be able to paint your wheels, but it's also a DIY project you can tackle.
I've painted two sets in the past and obtained good results. One key is to finish the job with a 2K clear coat. There are plenty of videos on Youtube covering the topic. Here's a video with a lot of good info.

The Complete Guide to Painting Wheels in your Home Garage!


Another option would be to get your wheels powder coated.

 

[cqrrlm]

great info - thanks for feedback

 

[Doskiller]

If you ever plan to autox, the wheel needs to be within 7mm of factory offset, like the apex forged wheel that's 53 offset to keep within stock class.

There are very few options out there that are within the "correct" offset. I would personally avoid going more than 10mm difference because it does reduce steering feel and increase torque steer, but a lot of people go lower for looks and seem to be happy or just deal with it.

I wouldn't be afraid of a machined aluminum hub ring. I use them on my (bmw spec) ec7 apex wheels, and I've glued mine in so I can stop worrying about losing them or ham-bending them on.

Remember that changing width needs offset changes as well. A 10.5" wide wheel would need a 47mm offset to maintain the same backpacking (distance from inner edge of rim to hub face). So the apex vs5rs in an 18x10.5 +47 maintains a much more similar geometry to stock while still giving the "poke" that people like to see.

If you can't find what you're looking for from existing options, you could always try forgestar or other custom forged wheels. They'll build to your exact spec.

He's right about the torque steer on a 45 offset ....................

 

[RamVA]

Remember that changing width needs offset changes as well. A 10.5" wide wheel would need a 47mm offset to maintain the same backpacking (distance from inner edge of rim to hub face). So the apex vs5rs in an 18x10.5 +47 maintains a much more similar geometry to stock while still giving the "poke" that people like to see.

Respectfully, I don't think this is correct. If you widen the wheel and move its centerline out, you will increase torque steer. Even if the inside face is in the same place as stock (as in your example, adding an inch of width and reducing offset by 13mm), you will have moved the centerline of the tire 0.5" or 13mm further away from the steering axis. I don't think that's a huge issue, but it's not the same as stock.

 

[ABPDE5]

Respectfully, I don't think this is correct. If you widen the wheel and move its centerline out, you will increase torque steer. Even if the inside face is in the same place as stock (as in your example, adding an inch of width and reducing offset by 13mm), you will have moved the centerline of the tire 0.5" or 13mm further away from the steering axis. I don't think that's a huge issue, but it's not the same as stock.

I think he's just saying it maintains the same distance from the inside of the wheel to the suspension components, which is true (very, very minor difference).

Your point is valid, though: because this setup maintains the same distance between the inside of the wheel and the suspension, but also extends the outside face of the wheel, it does move the centerline of the wheel outwards.

 

[elh0102]

If you ever plan to autox, the wheel needs to be within 7mm of factory offset, like the apex forged wheel that's 53 offset to keep within stock class.

There are very few options out there that are within the "correct" offset. I would personally avoid going more than 10mm difference because it does reduce steering feel and increase torque steer, but a lot of people go lower for looks and seem to be happy or just deal with it.

I wouldn't be afraid of a machined aluminum hub ring. I use them on my (bmw spec) ec7 apex wheels, and I've glued mine in so I can stop worrying about losing them or ham-bending them on.

Remember that changing width needs offset changes as well. A

I think he's just saying it maintains the same distance from the inside of the wheel to the suspension components, which is true (very, very minor difference).

Your point is valid, though: because this setup maintains the same distance between the inside of the wheel and the suspension, but also extends the outside face of the wheel, it does move the centerline of the wheel outwards.

I guess my math isn't working. If the wheel offset is decreased by 50% of the increase in width, that seems to maintain the centerline location. What am I missing?

 

[RamVA]

I guess my math isn't working. If the wheel offset is decreased by 50% of the increase in width, that seems to maintain the centerline location. What am I missing?

If you do all of that you've kept the inside face in the same place, moved the outside face out by 1", and moved the centerline of the tire by 0.5" (or 13mm).

If you wanted to add an inch of width and keep the centerline in the same place, you would have to keep the 60mm offset, and then figure out if there's enough clearance on the inside. (I think there is.)

 

[elh0102]

If you do all of that you've kept the inside face in the same place, moved the outside face out by 1", and moved the centerline of the tire by 0.5" (or 13mm).

If you wanted to add an inch of width and keep the centerline in the same place, you would have to keep the 60mm offset, and then figure out if there's enough clearance on the inside. (I think there is.)

Okay, I think that makes sense, but I need more coffee! I guess, regardless of width, centerline is centerline, and I made it too complicated.

 

[cqrrlm]

Thanks -All good info, but way above my pay grade. I do not want to risk changing the handling/ride of this car. I will just paint or powder coat my wheels and post pics when complete

Sponsored