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When is the mark up going down for its

debianx

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I was also able to get my ITS for 2K under MSRP last month from Radley Acura in Va. They were the closest dealer with the ABP & Orchid combo which I wanted. The deal took 4 emails.
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braverlin

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Hi folks, thanks for the latest info on the ITS purchases. So the price you guys got were out of the door price or you were able to get $2K to $3K below MSRP but you still have to pay taxes, registration, destination charges, dealer processing fee right?
 

Integra23

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Hi folks, thanks for the latest info on the ITS purchases. So the price you guys got were out of the door price or you were able to get $2K to $3K below MSRP but you still have to pay taxes, registration, destination charges, dealer processing fee right?
Prices posted were a discount not out the door
 

Victorofhavoc

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Hi folks, thanks for the latest info on the ITS purchases. So the price you guys got were out of the door price or you were able to get $2K to $3K below MSRP but you still have to pay taxes, registration, destination charges, dealer processing fee right?
Always negotiate the final vehicle cost with dealer fees not including tax or anything else; just the vehicle cost itself.

Never negotiate monthly costs or other silliness.

I got my car for "msrp", but then I negotiated a bunch of accessories into it (carbon bits, Alcantara wheel, and the black badges that were already on the car), which they dropped the price on quite a bit (struggling to recall now, but like 1700$ or so). I also chose acura financing because they were willing to drop the price another $1k or so to use it. Rates are wild these days, though, so I used that strategy to lower the vehicle value and will just pay it off start of next year so I don't have to spend 7.3% interest! That being said, my final msrp that would be on the door sticker, including fees, was 58.8, but my final price out the door was closer to 53k.

You always have to pay taxes, registration, etc on your own, but you can negotiate for a lower interest rate if you're using their financing to cover at least the dealer fees. I don't recommend rolling the tax into the loan if your state allows it... Then you're just stretching your tax payment over time AND paying interest on tax 🤢.

I always budget to have 20% of the vehicle final sale price (less any trade or down payment) in cash on hand to cover taxes, registration, ppf and/or paint correction, ceramic, and for cars that come with summer rubber only - spare wheels and tires.

From what I've seen the ctr doesn't get the same discounts as the its, so I bet the real difference between the two is probably about 3k on average. I find that crazy because the civic I just find to be ugly, and I can't imagine anyone would choose it over the it's for the tiny cost difference.
 

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braverlin

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Always negotiate the final vehicle cost with dealer fees not including tax or anything else; just the vehicle cost itself.

Never negotiate monthly costs or other silliness.

I got my car for "msrp", but then I negotiated a bunch of accessories into it (carbon bits, Alcantara wheel, and the black badges that were already on the car), which they dropped the price on quite a bit (struggling to recall now, but like 1700$ or so). I also chose acura financing because they were willing to drop the price another $1k or so to use it. Rates are wild these days, though, so I used that strategy to lower the vehicle value and will just pay it off start of next year so I don't have to spend 7.3% interest! That being said, my final msrp that would be on the door sticker, including fees, was 58.8, but my final price out the door was closer to 53k.

You always have to pay taxes, registration, etc on your own, but you can negotiate for a lower interest rate if you're using their financing to cover at least the dealer fees. I don't recommend rolling the tax into the loan if your state allows it... Then you're just stretching your tax payment over time AND paying interest on tax 🤢.

I always budget to have 20% of the vehicle final sale price (less any trade or down payment) in cash on hand to cover taxes, registration, ppf and/or paint correction, ceramic, and for cars that come with summer rubber only - spare wheels and tires.

From what I've seen the ctr doesn't get the same discounts as the its, so I bet the real difference between the two is probably about 3k on average. I find that crazy because the civic I just find to be ugly, and I can't imagine anyone would choose it over the it's for the tiny cost difference.
This is super helpful. Thanks!!
 

whtciv2k

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Possible. Picked mine up in VA for 49,500 on 11/26/24. Sticker was just below 54k. Look for 2024 models as they are filled up with 2025’s already. That’s what I did.
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