List of Honest Acura Dealerships For Type S (MSRP vs Markup List -- Integra Type S)

[Hakmamba]

Interesting
I’m wondering why the concept of an 84 month loan, then paying it off so soon. I would think you would lose more money that way

TLDR: Risk Vs Reward

Example of a 100K car (no tax or regis used) and you had 60K in hand, not 600K disposable

A. 84 month loan for all 100K at 3% = Approx $1300 a month, Total Cost $111,000 ($11K in int)
B. 36 month loan for 40k at 2% 60K down = Approx $1150 a month, Total Cost $101,200 ($1.2k in int)
C. 36 month loan, 0k Down at 2% = Approx $2850 a month, total cost $$103,000 (3K in interest)

Even though your rate is higher with A, you have 60K in your pocket you can do as you please. One can do alot with that money in a 6-7 year time frame vs a 3 year, such as pay down other high interest things like Credit cards, mortgages, S&P 500 or invest in dogecoin (jk) or other products yielding higher %.

Very similar to how one pays back a Credit Card (which is a line of credit), one might owe $1000 (having $1K in hand) and make minimum payments, and one has to pay interest. Or alternatively pay more than the minimum and or all the balance.

In the end:

A. Having a long term loan gives you flexibility with potentially more opportunities, and less exposed risk (no dp). Yes it does require more involvement, and for the life of the loan to maturity will cost the most in terms of interest

B. Having a lower payment, and shorter term with no flexibility (60K down), and inherent dangers of theft or total loss. This is very much the old way of thinking when rates were Extremely high back in the days. However it will yield the lowest interest owed overall.

C. Having a high payment, but no DP means one still has the flexibility to do whatever they want with that cash in hand.

With the above poster, by choosing A over C, one can have the lowest $ payment amount without any Down Payment, which can free up $ that can be used elsewhere. There usually is no prepayment penalty by paying it early which is what he did. If your rate is really low, one has the ability or the "opportunity costs" to free up money to use it however one pleases. Assuming your lender will lend you that amount. Option A, is more common than those of B or C from the industry. Rates change so fast nowadays there is no diff from 36-72 months, in the end its about expanding your window to lower you risk. If not forced to put a DP (by lender) then I would highly avoid ever putting anything down, you literally can turn around an pay it in anytime. I'm pretty sure this would be a more interesting topic to those FL5 buyers because of the ADM's and the Loan Value component. Not sure how this turned into another finance topic lol.

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[Clark_Kent]

Ok, let me clear this up.
It is not that I can't afford the car or the payments, but I also have other plans and do not want to be paying this loan back over 6 or more years at an amount that prevents me from buying other things or saving more money rapidly.

Anyway, I appreciate your opinions, I have financed cars going back to the early 80's, I am comfortable with making decisions that work well for me and my family.
Sure, I could have taken the car with $5k down and lived with a 980 payment for 6 years, but to me, that is just too much of a monthly obligation while also thinking about buying properties, other cars and just saving for other opportunities.
To each his own.
Matt

Bolded for emphasis. This is all that matters. You don't owe anyone here an explanation on how you spend your money, manage it, or how you view it.

 

[optronix]

Bolded for emphasis. This is all that matters. You don't owe anyone here an explanation on how you spend your money, manage it, or how you view it.

Lol you're on a roll today. When are you getting your ITS, anyway?

He owes us internet strangers as much as he's willing to share on a public forum. No more, no less.

 

[lumper]

Bolded for emphasis. This is all that matters. You don't owe anyone here an explanation on how you spend your money, manage it, or how you view it.

I really appreciate that, I truly do believe to each his own, no judgement, do what is good for you and enjoy your life, that is what I do.

We may disagree about things, but it really doesn't matter.
Everyone's life is different, their situation is different, finances, etc.. and it is all relative.

More people today have car payments over $1000.00 than ever before and repos are way up as well.
People stretch car loans to 72 and 84 months, these weren't even possible back when I was last buying new cars.
24 years ago you didn't hear about such things.
a $500 payment was considered a lot, and to me, I have a lot of balls in the air, so I would rather save up front, put a chunk down and then have a smaller payment so I can free up my monthly savings for other endeavors.

To me, if I need to go longer than 60 months then it's too expensive, I don't want to pay a car loan back over half a decade, talk about depreciation over time, and not to mention Id be paying interest on every penny, the longer I pay the more I pay.

I will always work it out to 36 to 48 months so I can pay it off and put it behind me.
Its only money, I can always make more.
I plan to also buy a civic sport, 2.0 liter 6 speed manual, hatch, 27,700.
I can put 10k$ down on it and pay it off in 36 months and have two new cars both paid within 4 years.
But as some have said, as long as you have fun along the way you're doing it right.

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
Despite financing for longer terms (72-84 months), I haven't had a car payment (or otherwise) under $1,000 a month in at least a decade. Heck, I was paying $2,500 a month on a 2014 Mazda2! Paid that one off quick, lol.

It's all relative. There's really no right or wrong way.....so long as the individual isn't over extending themselves, not paying their bills, or simply cannot afford what they are doing.

Some ask me, why I don't just pay cash. Well, if I did that, I couldn't keep my credit fresh. I'm all about playing the game (even if I don't agree with it).

Mike

 

[nix6speed]

Put a deposit on an ITS in Ohio today. Picking up end of next week most likely and driving down to Houston. Can share buyer sheet if needed but details below. LCM with Ebony interior. I was put on their waitlist a week ago with no color preference other than no black exterior. They called me today saying they have one. Too easy.

Acura of Columbus - MSRP plus $100 wheel locks and $250 doc fee

 

[ponny18]

I put a deposit at Radley Acura in VA with Bob for MSRP. Seeing a LCM/black in transit, I inquired about it. Bob informed me that the manager will let me have it with a $3500 ADM with an explanation that it is an allocated car from Acura and not an order reserved for anyone so it is not at MSRP. Does anyone have insight on what he may be talking about? Is the dealership just playing games? What’s the point of the waitlist?

 

[Integra23]

I put a deposit at Radley Acura in VA with Bob for MSRP. Seeing a LCM/black in transit, I inquired about it. Bob informed me that the manager will let me have it with a $3500 ADM with an explanation that it is an allocated car from Acura and not an order reserved for anyone so it is not at MSRP. Does anyone have insight on what he may be talking about? Is the dealership just playing games? What’s the point of the waitlist?

All cars after the first 200 are allocated. Some dealers would sell the first 200 reserved at MSRP. Sounds like this is what your dealer did. All other allocated (Non-reserved)cars they are adding $3,500 adm.

 

[CWNole95]

I put a deposit at Radley Acura in VA with Bob for MSRP. Seeing a LCM/black in transit, I inquired about it. Bob informed me that the manager will let me have it with a $3500 ADM with an explanation that it is an allocated car from Acura and not an order reserved for anyone so it is not at MSRP. Does anyone have insight on what he may be talking about? Is the dealership just playing games? What’s the point of the waitlist?

Not a fan of Radley or of Bob. Yes, they play games. So much so that I decided to go completely away from Honda/Acura for my daily after dealing with them for the last several weeks. Still have my FL5 and S2K, but that’ll be it for me.

I mean, how stupid is that explanation he gave you? That makes no sense. They have a customer waiting and won’t give them the option of purchasing a different car that is on its way for the same terms?

Very best of luck getting the new car at your original terms.

 

[ponny18]

I just asked for my deposit back from Bob at Radley Acura. I didn’t have a good feeling about them too. Thank you for your insights!

 

[nix6speed]

Multiple MSRP deals to be had just a bit north of you in NJ/PA/CT as of late it seems. The days of markup on these are coming to an end besides for folks who can’t/won’t put the effort in to looking.

I don't blame the people not putting in the effort. It's absurd trying to get these cars at sticker. It may be easier for shrewd negotiators and more power to them but for the rest of us it is not fun playing dealer games.

At Acura Turnersville NJ (Close to Philadelphia) they are doing MSRP plus $2390 in dealer junk accessories and $599 doc fee. I was close to pulling trigger since it's Silver and that was my first color choice. I discussed negotiating and was given the 'at least our added price includes accessories better than nothing with ADM' spiel. Couldn't justify $3k extra on the only no cost color.

 

[Brian G]

I paid $2500 ADM at Island Acura on LI. I was able to get the blue/orchid interior that I wanted. Would have preferred MSRP, but wanted the car now and NY has low dealer fees that covered part of the cost. I believe they had a black/red msrp, but not the color combo I wanted.

 

[nix6speed]

Yeah Turnersville is dead set on the extra fluff. What colors are you open to? Can help keep an eye out for ya. I’ve come across 4 MSRP cars myself in NJ/PA (negotiation required) and the broker I was working with but didn’t actually go through had another 3-4 in NJ/CT for MSRP. The doc fees were always in the $400-$700 range, but no other extras or accessories required. Just MSRP + destination + doc fee.

I bought an LCM/Ebony one from Acura Columbus at sticker plus $250 doc fees and $100 wheel locks. They made it too easy. Picking it up Saturday 8/26 and driving it back to Houston.

I saw your broker post in the classifieds and was considering going that route but patience paid off thankfully.

 

[Kamber]

I bought an LCM/Ebony one from Acura Columbus at sticker plus $250 doc fees and $100 wheel locks. They made it too easy. Picking it up Saturday 8/26 and driving it back to Houston.

I saw your broker post in the classifieds and was considering going that route but patience paid off thankfully.

Congrats — that's an excellent deal and my 2nd top choice color combination!

Enjoy your drive back and try to vary the RPMs for a solid break-in!

 

[mopar_man]

Seems like the days of ADM are over if you’re willing to simply tell the dealer to pound sand and do a little work on your end.

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