Retrofit Honda Civic Dimming Mirror w/ Homelink

[AngelsofVerdun]

Is it possible to swap the factory mirror in my '23 Integra with the Civic mirror with homelink? I really like having homelink in my car, and I was bummed to find out that the Integra did not include it. If so, would it be plug-and-play? Does anyone have quick access to the part number for the Civic mirror?

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[StPeteAPB]

Yes. Get P/N 76400-T20-A11 and visit https://www.facebook.com/groups/4542779535742752/posts/5890119301008762/

you just need to jumper the Red and Yellow wires on the homelink mirror's connector

 

[The SIG]

I wonder if this method works for those with 'inactive' homelink mirrors.

 

[wontondon]

Would this also work w/ the '21-23 MDX mirror?

 

[JC-RH]

Would this also work w/ the '21-23 MDX mirror?

I’m curious on this too. Wife has a 2022 MDX, so I might see if they are compatible. Might make some time this week to try it out.

I’ve been using Siri and a third party app to control my garage door. Overall it’s been fine, but I hate waiting those 10 seconds while the lights flash just prior to closing.

 

[vexingv]

Yes. Get P/N 76400-T20-A11 and visit

you just need to jumper the Red and Yellow wires on the homelink mirror's connector

i'm waiting to gain membership into that Facebook group...
but when you mean "jumper the red and yellow wires" do you mean splice the two wires together (strip the wiring sheath/insulation)? otherwise, i'm not sure what it entails.

also, with this method, does homelink work only when the car is powered on or in accessory mode or does it work when the car is powered off as well?

 

[StPeteAPB]

i'm waiting to gain membership into that Facebook group...
but when you mean "jumper the red and yellow wires" do you mean splice the two wires together (strip the wiring sheath/insulation)? otherwise, i'm not sure what it entails.

also, with this method, does homelink work only when the car is powered on or in accessory mode or does it work when the car is powered off as well?

Yes, you're splicing the two wires together, but you're NOT doing it by cutting either of them. You can use another wire with both ends' insulation stripped off and then push each end into the back side of the connector so the exposed wire ends touch the contacts of each wire you're jumpering.

homelink only has ever worked with the car is powered on. you don't have to start it, but you do have to be on beyond just the accessory stage. this keeps people from breaking into your car and then being able to open your garage if your car is parked outside your home.

 

[vexingv]

Yes, you're splicing the two wires together, but you're NOT doing it by cutting either of them. You can use another wire with both ends' insulation stripped off and then push each end into the back side of the connector so the exposed wire ends touch the contacts of each wire you're jumpering.

homelink only has ever worked with the car is powered on. you don't have to start it, but you do have to be on beyond just the accessory stage. this keeps people from breaking into your car and then being able to open your garage if your car is parked outside your home.

ah...thanks for the explanation! my only prior experience "jumping" connections has been with computers -- jumping motherboard pin connectors or the pin connectors on older IDE hard drives that needed to jumpers to specify SLAVE/MASTER configuration (for those applications there are usually little jumper tabs that when inserted bridges the two connected pins).

not sure if you or anyone else may be able to answer or chime in on the following questions:
1. any suggestions on the type of wires/wiring to use? or any need for an in-line resistor?
2. what exactly is being done -- providing power that wasn't previously available due to the existing pin-out?
3. are there any concerns about increased heat or fire risk by jumping the connectors/wires (due to increased voltage or resistance in the wires)?
4. is it still possible/safe to use mirror taps (for a radar detector) in this application (whether physically if there isn't enough room to insert the taps into the back of the connector or wether it is electrically sound/safe to do so)?

thanks.

 

[StPeteAPB]

not sure if you or anyone else may be able to answer or chime in on the following questions:
1. any suggestions on the type of wires/wiring to use? or any need for an in-line resistor?
2. what exactly is being done -- providing power that wasn't previously available due to the existing pin-out?
3. are there any concerns about increased heat or fire risk by jumping the connectors/wires (due to increased voltage or resistance in the wires)?
4. is it still possible/safe to use mirror taps (for a radar detector) in this application (whether physically if there isn't enough room to insert the taps into the back of the connector or wether it is electrically sound/safe to do so)?

thanks.

1. just thin wire like you can pull out of a CAT-5 twisted pair. I think I mention that (22 gauge) somewhere
2. yes - providing power to a wire that is not there from the source but is needed by the mirror for Homelink
3. no - and no resistor needed
4. there is a completely separate thread that shows how people went into the same harness for power for a radar detector. Google is your friend.

 

[VTEC4ME]

You could use Jumper wires and just connect the red and yellow together.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N6HFCX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Another option, which I highly suggest, is get the 2023 Accord mirror with homelink and harness. Better looking mirror and not that difficult to install. I think its also cheaper than the Civic mirror??
A nice video tutorial. Frameless mirror from the Accord, using a harness.
Install wasn't too bad. Mirror shroud was a PITA. I ended up using the grounding point as all the other ground wires.....another PITA. The video was definitely helpful and put me at ease.

 

[glhs]

I've just done this mod today using the Accord frameless mirror (08V03-3A0-100) and it was quite easy. I had initially bought the $40 harness with the Accord mirror connector that you route to the fusebox (08V03-30A-100) but I didnt end up using it and will return or resell it.

Here are the steps I followed:

In the car:
1) Remove the stock mirror shroud trim pieces (see other videoes in this thread for details on that). It was not hard, more or less I used a small plastic trim tool to pry apart, starting with a plastic razorblade at the parting line in the center of the trim pieces).
2) Unplug the stock mirror connector and remove the stock mirror by rotating counter clockwise about 30 degrees. I did this by hand but you could easily use some channel locks to make it very easy. Mentally note the position and way the twist connector fastens to the windshield as you'll have to align it again this way during reassembly.

On your workbench:
3) Purchase a new Accord Homelink Gen5 mirror, 08V03-3A0-100. (At time of writing this was $161 new from All Discount Parts).
4) Use a small plastic trim tool to pry apart the clamshell of the factory frameless mirror. (Pry at the seam between the black parts, don't pry by the glass.) I was successful in getting the side apart that doesnt have the on/off button first, then moving around the sides, then getting the side with the on/off button. This took maybe 10-15 mins on the first mirror as I was exploring and being gentle, then maybe 2-3 minutes once I had the technique for the 2nd mirror.
5) Repeat the disassembly to the brand new Homelink mirror
6) Swap the internal wiring harness and stem out of your stock Integra mirror onto the Accord frameless mirror. You are swapping the harness so you can use your Integra's factory mirror connector and not the Accord setup.. Note, there are 4 screws that hold the stem in place, then you remove the spring and pull it apart. To get the spring to reinstall behind the ball joint on the stem I just lined things up flat and fastened the screws again evenly and it pushed the spring back in place behind the ball socket itself..
7) Important: While your mirrors are apart and internal mirror harness is exposed you need to cut back or unravel the tape it is wrapped with, use an exacto knife to strip the insulation from the yellow and red wires somewhere in the middle, solder these wires together, then add some electrical tape to insulate. Rewrap the internal mirror harness in harness tape or electrical tape. I imagine you could also do this with some tap connectors instead of soldering and leave the tap connectors inside the mirror's clamshell. This red/yellow fuse is neccessary because the factory mirror connector on the Integra doesnt provide a power feed to the yellow wire which powers the homelink. Splicing these together internally means when your mirror gets power your homelink will to, which when spliced to the red means only when the ignition is on.

Back in the car:
8) Reinstall the mirror and plug the factory connector back in. The fitting where the mirror stem attaches to the windshield has 5 prongs, 4 in a square and then one extra, for alignment I found that extra needs to be facing down near the dash.
9) Reinstall the mirror trim plastics, like most other things it all just snaps back together when lined up.

To me this method is better than using the accessory harness because it means you dont have to run the harness past the airbag and use an accessory position up in your fusebox. it's little cheaper as you only need the mirror but does mean you have to be brave enough to pry apart your brand new homelink mirror, but then again you're prying apart your brand new Integra too so how much extra risk is it really? Like the car it doesnt really have any screws holding the part together so it's just a matter of finding the right trim tool or credit card to pry it apart.

This approach also means if for any reason you wanted to return to stock (can't see why you would) the whole mod is contained within the mirror and can be swapped back to a stock one in no time and doesn't involve pulling apart the a pillar trim or adding wiring to the fusebox.

You could use Jumper wires and just connect the red and yellow together.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N6HFCX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Another option, which I highly suggest, is get the 2023 Accord mirror with homelink and harness. Better looking mirror and not that difficult to install. I think its also cheaper than the Civic mirror??
A nice video tutorial. Frameless mirror from the Accord, using a harness.
Install wasn't too bad. Mirror shroud was a PITA. I ended up using the grounding point as all the other ground wires.....another PITA. The video was definitely helpful and put me at ease.

 

[Nibis]

Nice !!!

 

[cycodrama]

Another option using the accord mirror if you don't want to pry the mirrors open, is to just cut the harness off of both mirrors and solder the integra harness/plug to the accord mirror. Just match all the colors up and solder the red/yellow together just like described above.

Only issue I ran into was the harness wires ended up being too short when plugged in to reinstall the trim pieces, so I had to add extra wire and extend the harness out another 2 inches.

Not saying this easier or better, but I did this a few days ago prior to seeing the above method. I went with the accord mirror because it was cheaper and available. The civic mirror is 100$ more and backordered everywhere without an ETA.

 

[glhs]

Agreed, it would be simpler to just do outside the mirror -- this was my approach originally as well -- but when I realized how short the stubby wiring pigtail was and that the Accord mirror stem required the wiring to feed out slightly differently than the Integra stem I decided to pop it open and do it that way.

Another option using the accord mirror if you don't want to pry the mirrors open, is to just cut the harness off of both mirrors and solder the integra harness/plug to the accord mirror. Just match all the colors up and solder the red/yellow together just like described above.

 

[cycodrama]

Agreed, it would be simpler to just do outside the mirror -- this was my approach originally as well -- but when I realized how short the stubby wiring pigtail was and that the Accord mirror stem required the wiring to feed out slightly differently than the Integra stem I decided to pop it open and do it that way.

Haha yeah i learned that the hard way... Had it all installed and couldn't fit the trim back on due to the tight wiring blocking it. So my 7 or so solder connections then turned into 21 as a spliced more wire in... Was not fun!

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