6 Speed Manual Transmission fluid service

[PandaTeggy24]

I got my ITS 30 March.

I did both first oil change and MTF at just under 1k. I believe in the old fashioned idea of break in periods and break in oil changes to drain out the metal debris created during the break in mating process of parts. I installed magnetic drain plugs in both while I was at it. I'll do another oil drain at 3k and then again at 5k when I'll thereafter. I'll do 15k MTF changes.

I say that to say this, it's your expensive purchase. Oil is cheap. Engines and transmissions are not. So I'm 100% with you on taking good care of your nice things.

To answer your question, I went with Amsoil in both fluid cases. Amsoil Synchomesh for the tranny and Amsoil OE 0w20 for the first two changes. I'll switch to 5w30 at 5k for my OCIs there after.

Some call frequent changes a waste of money, but over the life of the car, how much is saved vs risk and hassle of poor engine performance, hassle, and engine life?

Amsoil OE 0W20 5.6qt = $39.62
Puralator Boss Oil Filter = $12.74
Drain plug washer = $1?
Total = $53.36
Every 5k miles. I drive about 10k per year and change my own oil. So $106 per year. So in 10 years and 100k miles, I'll spend a grand total of $1060 on oil changes plus the two break in changes so $1220 in my first 10 years of ownership.

Amsoil MTF Synchomesh 2.3qt = $36.32
Drain/Fill/Check plug washers = $3?
Total = $39.32
Every 15k miles. So not even once a year. But in 10 years at 105000 miles I'll have done 5 changes. Grand total of $200 over 10 years plus the one break in changes so $240 in 10 years

So for me the math, not counting the break in changes, will save about $63 per year, ~$5 month, by doubling those intervals on a $60k car and risking build up, damage, and issues like mechanics report on 10k oil changes with these engines or I be a big baller and "waste" an extra $5 a month.

Anyone paying $30k-$40k for an Aspec or $60k+ for an ITS being worried about $5/month should just skip one Starbucks coffee per month and change the fluids. I can't imagine anyone able to afford a $60k car is too worried about $5/month. That's less than a Netflix subscription.

I agree with you on maintaining a vehicle you intend on keeping around a while. I work at a Honda dealership, so my OEM prices are, well, let's just say very reasonable lol. I appreciate the responses everyone. I'll likely do 15k-20k on MTF & 25k-30k on plugs that are stupid expensive even working for Honda.

I am tuned & am getting ready to install the rest on my bolt on's before I buy a catback. I already have a 3" downpipe & front pipe attached to the stock catback & it doesn't sound too bad but isn't loud enough for my tastes.

Thanks everyone!

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[bvanlieu]

I don't think anyone is arguing the cost, just opinions on going a bit too overboard with maintenance under the thought its helping or better for the car. the waste is in fluids, time and for some who can't DIY, it will be a waste of money paying 100-150 hr/ shop rates more then necessary.

The number of MTs, rear diffs, transfer cases out there with OEM fluid still in them, not failing...is most of them.

Enthusiasts make up a small minority of the install base....just the way it is

 

[Integra23]

I got my ITS 30 March.

I did both first oil change and MTF at just under 1k. I believe in the old fashioned idea of break in periods and break in oil changes to drain out the metal debris created during the break in mating process of parts. I installed magnetic drain plugs in both while I was at it. I'll do another oil drain at 3k and then again at 5k when I'll thereafter. I'll do 15k MTF changes.

I say that to say this, it's your expensive purchase. Oil is cheap. Engines and transmissions are not. So I'm 100% with you on taking good care of your nice things.

To answer your question, I went with Amsoil in both fluid cases. Amsoil Synchomesh for the tranny and Amsoil OE 0w20 for the first two changes. I'll switch to 5w30 at 5k for my OCIs there after.

Some call frequent changes a waste of money, but over the life of the car, how much is saved vs risk and hassle of poor engine performance, hassle, and engine life?

Amsoil OE 0W20 5.6qt = $39.62
Puralator Boss Oil Filter = $12.74
Drain plug washer = $1?
Total = $53.36
Every 5k miles. I drive about 10k per year and change my own oil. So $106 per year. So in 10 years and 100k miles, I'll spend a grand total of $1060 on oil changes plus the two break in changes so $1220 in my first 10 years of ownership.

Amsoil MTF Synchomesh 2.3qt = $36.32
Drain/Fill/Check plug washers = $3?
Total = $39.32
Every 15k miles. So not even once a year. But in 10 years at 105000 miles I'll have done 5 changes. Grand total of $200 over 10 years plus the one break in changes so $240 in 10 years

So for me the math, not counting the break in changes, will save about $63 per year, ~$5 month, by doubling those intervals on a $60k car and risking build up, damage, and issues like mechanics report on 10k oil changes with these engines or I be a big baller and "waste" an extra $5 a month.

Anyone paying $30k-$40k for an Aspec or $60k+ for an ITS being worried about $5/month should just skip one Starbucks coffee per month and change the fluids. I can't imagine anyone able to afford a $60k car is too worried about $5/month. That's less than a Netflix subscription.

Where do you get your oil from? That seems cheaper then mobil 1.

 

[Wolfnman2000]

Where do you get your oil from? That seems cheaper then mobil 1.

www.amsoil.com

They have several different product lines. The price I quoted is the OE line. It's the one with the API seal on it. It's also the least expensive of their products.

Secondly, I have three vehicles so I got the Preferred Customer trial. Then if you spend $500 in the year, you get a free renewal. With three cars, it's easy enough to do. PC gives you a 25% discount on your order.

Lastly, I buy the gallons by the case, the cheapest per quart option.

When combined, the cost per quart is $6.95. Walmart sells the 5 at of Mobile 1 for about $25. So the OE Amsoil is still about $10 more for 5 qts. But again, based on my math, that's a price difference of about $20 a year or $200 over 10 to get an oil that's proven in multiple years to be better. Amsoil has 0 events of a LSPI in testing. The Dexos standard allows some to occur. This is especially important for our turbo charged GDI engines.

When I go to 5w30, I'll also switch to the Signature Series. So that will be about $10.50/qt. So my oil changes will be $59.85 for the oil. Still not a serious ding to the wallet imo. Yes that's more than twice the cost of Mobile 1, but from all the data out there, Amsoil is an objectively better product and no more cost than it adds to the lifetime ownership, it's hard for me to argue it's worth it to me to save those few dollars.

 

[Wolfnman2000]

I don't think anyone is arguing the cost, just opinions on going a bit too overboard with maintenance under the thought its helping or better for the car. the waste is in fluids, time and for some who can't DIY, it will be a waste of money paying 100-150 hr/ shop rates more then necessary.

The number of MTs, rear diffs, transfer cases out there with OEM fluid still in them, not failing...is most of them.

Enthusiasts make up a small minority of the install base....just the way it is

Yes the number of vehicles in the road without proper maintenance is most of them....because by definition they're still on the road. Doesn't mean they'll last long or be in good shape at that time.

But the number of failures out there is a non 0 number.

Plenty of mechanics see them. You can roll the dice to be the guy who claims "I've never changed my XYZ fluid and never had a problem" if you like. I personally don't buy it. I've seen how people live and think "it's not a problem."

Further, complete mechanical failure isn't the only reason to maintain fluid changes. Efficiency of the car is impacted by degrades lubricants throughout the drivetrain.

Yes, many people will own a car and not maintain it. That car will keep going, sure, until it doesn't.

You are correct that if not DIY, the math changes some but neither oil change or MT fluid change are lengthy, therefore, not labor expensive tasks.

 

[Integra23]

www.amsoil.com

They have several different product lines. The price I quoted is the OE line. It's the one with the API seal on it. It's also the least expensive of their products.

Secondly, I have three vehicles so I got the Preferred Customer trial. Then if you spend $500 in the year, you get a free renewal. With three cars, it's easy enough to do. PC gives you a 25% discount on your order.

Lastly, I buy the gallons by the case, the cheapest per quart option.

When combined, the cost per quart is $6.95. Walmart sells the 5 at of Mobile 1 for about $25. So the OE Amsoil is still about $10 more for 5 qts. But again, based on my math, that's a price difference of about $20 a year or $200 over 10 to get an oil that's proven in multiple years to be better. Amsoil has 0 events of a LSPI in testing. The Dexos standard allows some to occur. This is especially important for our turbo charged GDI engines.

When I go to 5w30, I'll also switch to the Signature Series. So that will be about $10.50/qt. So my oil changes will be $59.85 for the oil. Still not a serious ding to the wallet imo. Yes that's more than twice the cost of Mobile 1, but from all the data out there, Amsoil is an objectively better product and no more cost than it adds to the lifetime ownership, it's hard for me to argue it's worth it to me to save those few dollars.

Still a bargain since the dealership wants over $100.

 

[Wolfnman2000]

Still a bargain since the dealership wants over $100.

That's precisely my logic as well. I can DIY with arguably "better" oil and filters (even though Honda filters seem to be pretty good) than used by the dealership for at least $40 less than the dealership charges. Why would I do a dealership oil change?

 

[PandaTeggy24]

I get the OEM MTF & washers for less than $13 total from my job, so it's just cheap insurance for me on that. The plugs I'll be buying will be NGK, but there's plenty of time on those for now.

Thanks to everyone for being involved & helping provide some interesting knowledge here. I hadn't seen any MTF thread in the maintenance section, so I hope this helps in the future as well.

 

[NoelPR]

Never had problems with my vehicles following the MM suggested intervals.
Will continue doing so.

 

[PandaTeggy24]

Not to revive a dead thread, but I found out per Honda/Acura if you drive in mountainous areas, or slow speeds where trans temps get high, or drive spiritedly routinely/daily, it is recommended to have your MTF replaced at 37.5k miles. So I guess that's considered severe duty maintenance schedule. I imagine if I took mine to a handful of track days, and actually get to run a decent amount of laps, it would trigger the 3 code in the MM around that mileage

 

[Mr. LargeCoffee]

Does the Integra, well all Hondas, really use 5W30 weight transmission fluid? I ask because my Miata uses 75W90 GL4-5. Seems like a significant difference.

 

[bvanlieu]

1. W != Weight, oils are grades
2. Gear oil rating numbers are different then motor oil, and depending on each oils cold/hot viscosities it may be close to a motor oil, however the add packs are much different

Engine oil can be used in a pinch but should not be run long term. A VOA posted of Honda MTL shows the 100c viscosity closer to a 20 grade then 30 grade oil, and typically 75/80 is used from say Redline as a recommended fluid vs 75/90 from what I recall.

If Honda MTL is the factory fill, and it shifts wonderfully, I see no reason to deviate to RL or other brands myself.

 

[Evolving_e63]

I've always ran honda mtf. My 2002 rsx-s had over 130k before I sold it. I just sold my 09 civic si with 120k miles. My 2001 honda s2000 and my 2005 ep3 k24 swapped turbo also ran oem honda mtf.

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