Jester’s Tuning thread

[JesterTuned]

My car whooshing is like a kitty purring. Lets me know she’s happy.

also THANK YOU! @JesterTuned for your valuable input AND this thread!! Much appreciated!!

Same here I appreciate you guys!

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[bisquick]

It is finally here and hopefully testing will begin next week.

Pumped for this. Curious to know what we can push the stock turbo with bolt-ons to.

 

[JesterTuned]

Pumped for this. Curious to know what we can push the stock turbo with bolt-ons to.

I currently don’t have any customers running this with a stock turbo. But 400whp will be achievable with fueling mods.

 

[mopar_man]

Do we have a general baseline of true WHP levels for a stock ITS? And I wonder what the sweet spot is for day to day drive ability. Because honestly, current power can get you into trouble quickly.

 

[koatic]

Do we have a general baseline of true WHP levels for a stock ITS? And I wonder what the sweet spot is for day to day drive ability. Because honestly, current power can get you into trouble quickly.

I have done a couple of Dynos in my video blog all at same Dyno. Baseline for me at the wheelwas 279HP and 298lb. With a few bolts on II gained 58HP and 58lb. I have not been to the Dyno since the jailbreak and the TSP stage 1 tune but the increase since then is very noticeable. Original video in my blog below. Disclaimer since that first video I know now that with VSA disabled and the front wheels turning without the rear causes the ECU to go into a weird mode throwing CEL,s for everything and you cannot change the mode or even set the parking brake until it clears which takes a short normal drive. So all my Dynos have been done on sport mode in 4 the gear. Also note that HP is accurate in 4th gear at wot because maps are the same 600 torque request at 100% throttle. Tune can also change air fuel and cam time as well as enable higher boost.
Please correct me if I am wrong @JesterTuned

 

[JesterTuned]

I have done a couple of Dynos in my video blog all at same Dyno. Baseline for me at the wheelwas 279HP and 298lb. With a few bolts on II gained 58HP and 58lb. I have not been to the Dyno since the jailbreak and the TSP stage 1 tune but the increase since then is very noticeable. Original video in my blog below. Disclaimer since that first video I know now that with VSA disabled and the front wheels turning without the rear causes the ECU to go into a weird mode throwing CEL,s for everything and you cannot change the mode or even set the parking brake until it clears which takes a short normal drive. So all my Dynos have been done on sport mode in 4 the gear. Also note that HP is accurate in 4th gear at wot because maps are the same 600 torque request at 100% throttle. Tune can also change air fuel and cam time as well as enable higher boost.
Please correct me if I am wrong @JesterTuned

Right on the money my dude!

 

[JesterTuned]

Do we have a general baseline of true WHP levels for a stock ITS? And I wonder what the sweet spot is for day to day drive ability. Because honestly, current power can get you into trouble quickly.

The only thing to add to what @koatic said is that it really depends on the dyno that you use since they all read a little different. Never get too hung up with numbers.

Best practice is to get a baseline on the dyno that you are going to use and then upload the new tune, do adaptive learning and then dyno the new map to appreciate the difference.

 

[JesterTuned]

It is installed and working flawlessly so far. It will be time consuming to tune since I have to adjust all the tables since the base settings are for a Hondata OTS tune.

 

[chopsuey34]

This is the most cost effective mod list that you can do for maximum gains without breaking the bank. For those of you that are looking for a mod path.

1. Tuning
2. Drop in filter
3. Downpipe

These three mods will yield the biggest gains for the least amount.

Inlet, intake, front pipe and exhaust are more bling than anything for sound. Now when you upgrade your turbo these items do start becoming a limitation.

Last question, Jester. Appreciate the help. Is this mod path for both the 2.0T and the 1.5T? If not, what is your recommended mod path for the 1.5T Si/Integra A-Spec?

 

[JesterTuned]

Last question, Jester. Appreciate the help. Is this mod path for both the 2.0T and the 1.5T? If not, what is your recommended mod path for the 1.5T Si/Integra A-Spec?

For the 1.5T depends on the goals just like the 2.0T.

But a similar approach is applicable, as long as you’re maximizing ease of airflow into and out of the engine you will see gains. But the single biggest mod will always be tuning. Hope this helps!

 

[PrecordFK7]

It is installed and working flawlessly so far. It will be time consuming to tune since I have to adjust all the tables since the base settings are for a Hondata OTS tune.

Good to see you are getting started with the CANFlex already. Mine arrives later today and can't wait to install it with the rest of my fuel system goodies.

 

[JesterTuned]

Good to see you are getting started with the CANFlex already. Mine arrives later today and can't wait to install it with the rest of my fuel system goodies.

It has been raining non stop here in my area so have not been able to test anything yet. And still have to clear the tank to start with e10 93oct. But hopefully it will move along quick.

 

[JesterTuned]

So after talking with @PrecordFK7 I have decided to do a little list of things I recommend. This only applies to DE5 and FL5. FK8 requires other things and 1.5L guys your mods are a little different.

1. Tuning software: Hondata

2. Intake: any that you like or drop in filter.

3. Downpipe: any that you like but TSP is the only one that won’t trigger a CEL for those looking for that.

4. Exhaust: any that you like (I’m personally not a fan of clamp exhausts prefer flanges)

5. High pressure fuel pump: ( Full race right now since it is the one that flows the most without changing cams, so plug and play) Hondata fuel system plus is a close second since it flows almost as much but you have to upgrade to their cam and can be costly. And I know XDI is working on something to compete.

6. Injectors: Hondata injectors have the best spray pattern and I find them superior to other offerings.
( I run XDI for now but looking to upgrade down the road to Hondata 1530cc injectors). The Hondata injectors have more ports to even out the fuel spray for better atomization.

7. Shifter upgrades: Like Ted Lasso said “you do whatever you like”

8. Charge pipes: PRL for now since they replace the Elbow and unless something better comes to the market.

9. Brake pads: I personally use Paragon pads on and off the track, just choose your pad type.

10. Turbo: what ever you want, quickest spooling is Kuro, MHI oem option good blend of power and Spool, RV6 slightly more laggy with good transient response due to ball bearing cartridge with the most power potential of the stock frame like turbos.

11. Low pressure fuel pump: Wunderland racing has a very nice plug and play ethanol aem pump.

12. Flex fuel: Hondata canflex kit.

If I forgot anything feel free to ask and if you need parts reach out to me first just in case for orientation.

 

[bisquick]

We all appreciate you and the effort that goes into this.

If I could provide one recommendation, I suggest organizing this data on the first post in the thread kind of like a table of contents. It will help you not having to repeat yourself 1,000 times over.

 

[JesterTuned]

We all appreciate you and the effort that goes into this.

If I could provide one recommendation, I suggest organizing this data on the first post in the thread kind of like a table of contents. It will help you not having to repeat yourself 1,000 times over.

Thanks will do! Great idea.

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