Jester’s Tuning thread

[chopsuey34]

This is the most cost effective mod list that you can do for maximum gains without breaking the bank. For those of you that are looking for a mod path.

1. Tuning
2. Drop in filter
3. Downpipe

These three mods will yield the biggest gains for the least amount.

Inlet, intake, front pipe and exhaust are more bling than anything for sound. Now when you upgrade your turbo these items do start becoming a limitation.

1) Opinions on whether an aftermarket intercooler is a worth it for spirited street use with occasional pulls?
2) Is a tune necessary to take advantage of an aftermarket intercooler?

I'm wondering about the intercooler because Hondata said that they cause turbo lag and that the Honda racing team reverted back to stock (for track use of course). My power gain goals are minimal: getting rid of rev hang and increasing throttle response are my biggest goals, secondary is a small bump in power "Stage 1-type tune."

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[Nivek2slick]

Thanks for the quick reply. Crazy how disabling the automatic reactivation of a feature is not possible. I could totally understand tampering with the way it worked (like when it brakes), but keeping it off permanently, this world is becoming too safe.

I guess it'll remain as part of my preflight checklist until I can find a way of de-nanny-fying the car to my liking.

One follow up question. Either I wait until after warranty expires but if I didn't want to , does the cloning process to a second ECU need jailbreaking too? Ideally I'd want something undetectable if done within warranty.

I actually spoke to Acura about this yesterday and they said they know when ECU has been switched out and jailbroken and everything . It's all recorded in the ECU and has a history of everything being done . Hope that helps

 

[JesterTuned]

1) Opinions on whether an aftermarket intercooler is a worth it for spirited street use with occasional pulls?
2) Is a tune necessary to take advantage of just an aftermarket intercooler?

I'm wondering about the intercooler because Hondata said that they cause turbo lag and that the Honda racing team reverted back to stock (for track use of course). My power gain goals are minimal: getting rid of rev hang and increasing throttle response are my biggest goals, secondary is a small bump in power "Stage 1-type tune."

A tune will wake up the car and make quite a bit more power without breaking a sweat. As far as intercooler goes it is very dependent on ambient temps. If you live in a place that is cooler the stock one is decent. I have customer’s tracking their cars with a stock setup and no issues. It does heat soak a bit but nothing too crazy.

Now with a intercooler upgrade temps will tend to be more consistent. These cars are very sensitive to IAT changes and will reduce power when IAT’s in the intake climb. With logging I have seen delta’s of 20 degrees with intercooler upgrades from the ingested air at the intake being 100 degrees F to 80 degrees F.

From a physics standpoint having a larger intercooler will take more time to fill due to increased volume capacity. And what Hondata said is correct it will have a bit more lag but most people in a daily situation will barely notice it. Plus side to this it is actually beneficial to the engine to not build boost down low so quickly. Again from a physics standpoint engines don’t like low rpm’s with high cylinder pressures. It helps with engine longevity moving the powerband to a higher rev range.

In your specific case, if you are not looking for a lot of modding but a nice decent bump in power a tune will net you a gain of about 50whp.

This is my car bone stock with a intercooler upgrade when I was developing my basemap. Stock everything aside from intercooler in the heat soak that is Miami.

Blue stock
Red Hondata OTS map
Green custom tune

 

[JesterTuned]

I actually spoke to Acura about this yesterday and they said they know when ECU has been switched out and jailbroken and everything . It's all recorded in the ECU and has a history of everything being done . Hope that helps

If you are concerned about warranty or any issues with the dealer it is best to stay stock if that gives you peace of mind. I have tuned a bunch of FL5’s and DE5’s and honestly a good tune that does not push too hard is very reliable and should not cause any issues. But like everything in life there is always some degree of risk involved.

 

[SilverRocket]

I actually spoke to Acura about this yesterday and they said they know when ECU has been switched out and jailbroken and everything . It's all recorded in the ECU and has a history of everything being done . Hope that helps

I guess then the cloning process gets recorded too.

The procedure I thought of was:
Step 1) Get a new one and clone to it
Step 2) Keep the original ECU out of the car untouched except cloning,
Step 3) Jailbreak and install the new cloned unit, swapping back to the OG ECU in the event there's an issue.
Step 4) Profit

Of course I expect that if you rolled up with the new unit they'd know.

 

[Westhaver]

This thread is already very informative.

Curious what would be number 4 on your list of bang for buck mods?

How big of an impact on hp/tq if only 91 octane fuel is available vs. 93?

Futher on the quality of life type changes, can you adjust the speedo for different tire sizes and/or have the car always start in individual mode?

 

[Nivek2slick]

I guess then the cloning process gets recorded too.

The procedure I thought of was:
Step 1) Get a new one and clone to it
Step 2) Keep the original ECU out of the car untouched except cloning,
Step 3) Jailbreak and install the new cloned unit, swapping back to the OG ECU in the event there's an issue.
Step 4) Profit

Of course I expect that if you rolled up with the new unit they'd know.

I guess then the cloning process gets recorded too.

The procedure I thought of was:
Step 1) Get a new one and clone to it
Step 2) Keep the original ECU out of the car untouched except cloning,
Step 3) Jailbreak and install the new cloned unit, swapping back to the OG ECU in the event there's an issue.
Step 4) Profit

Of course I expect that if you rolled up with the new unit they'd know.

I used this as an example and he made it seem like they would know the ECU is clone and once the original would get put back in boom voided I was like dam

 

[koatic]

No I’m not saying that, I’m saying the difference won’t be much from an intake in terms of power to cost terms. The intake will make a bit more power but it will be minimal gains unless you have a larger turbo since it is not a restriction.

What I meant is ok let’s say you spend $400 on a PRL and it nets you 10whp but you spend $50 on a drop in and get 5whp you won’t really feel the difference. So it is just information to make your choice on the avenue you want to pursue.

But the whooshing sound from PRL Having is worth the extra few bucks.. IMO..

 

[JesterTuned]

I guess then the cloning process gets recorded too.

The procedure I thought of was:
Step 1) Get a new one and clone to it
Step 2) Keep the original ECU out of the car untouched except cloning,
Step 3) Jailbreak and install the new cloned unit, swapping back to the OG ECU in the event there's an issue.
Step 4) Profit

Of course I expect that if you rolled up with the new unit they'd know.

So the way I would approach this, and I will have an answer for you guys hopefully soon. I would clone the ecu and jailbreak the clone. Leave the factory ecu that the car came with untouched.

 

[JesterTuned]

But the whooshing sound from PRL Having is worth the extra few bucks.. IMO..

Every intake will provide a ton more whoosh than a drop in and that is a very important factor if you like those kinds of things.

 

[JesterTuned]

I used this as an example and he made it seem like they would know the ECU is clone and once the original would get put back in boom voided I was like dam

I’m skeptical of dealerships, but once I have a more definitive answer I will let you guys know.

 

[JesterTuned]

This thread is already very informative.

Curious what would be number 4 on your list of bang for buck mods?

How big of an impact on hp/tq if only 91 octane fuel is available vs. 93?

Futher on the quality of life type changes, can you adjust the speedo for different tire sizes and/or have the car always start in individual mode?

In my opinion the 4th and 5th mod would be high pressure fuel pump and a canflex unit. You can run ethanol at higher levels and make a ton more power.

There is a difference between 93 and 91 oct. these cars like high octane since the engine is very sensitive to noises. And it pulls back timing at any little knock be it false or real. So 93 has more potential to make power. As for power figures I can’t say because it is very dependent on each dyno. And then you can’t really compare dyno numbers from dyno to dyno.

I do have customers with taller tires and speedo has been adjusted to account for the changes. On the FK8 you can start in R+ mode. On the FL5 and DE5 there is no option as of yet to start it in a set mode. At least my FL5 stays in Individual after I turn it off and I turn it back on. R+ mode is the only one that resets.

 

[JesterTuned]

It is finally here and hopefully testing will begin next week.

 

[Integra23]

It is finally here and hopefully testing will begin next week.

Cant wait for the testing results!

Mine also arrived

 

[koatic]

Every intake will provide a ton more whoosh than a drop in and that is a very important factor if you like those kinds of things.

My car whooshing is like a kitty purring. Lets me know she’s happy.

also THANK YOU! @JesterTuned for your valuable input AND this thread!! Much appreciated!!

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