Looking at getting a nice impact/torque wrench for lug nuts

[SlippyFist]

I dont know too much about Milwaukee as I have never owned one, but, with your use scenario it should last longer than 5 years. Do remember though, that cordless have batteries and batteries have a limited life. in general, I expect batteries to decline by 5 years as a general rule. Battery technology also evolves over time and will eventually make the current generation of cordless tools obsolete.

ah i see. i don't factor battery life into the equation for tools of this nature as their batteries are so widely available and easily replaced that it's pretty much a non-issue versus something like a phone that has a permanent un-removable battery.

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[SlippyFist]

I believe the Type S is 94ft/lbs

where did you get this number from? as has been pointed out, the manual says 80 ft/lbs, and if that isn't correct, i have no way of knowing

 

[mattm]

I've been using an impact gun on my cars since the nineties. I started with a Black & Decker one that you clipped to the battery terminals (like jump starting a car). The brushes died then no longer could be purchased. I switched to a Mikita cordless gun. Not a great battery, but filled the need. Last and current one was a Snap-On bought on eBay. Expensive. Battery was tired. I tried a rebuilt one that wasn't much better, so I bought a new battery from Snap-on that I have been using since. I was swapping tires over the decades at autocrosses. If it is raining, I can do all four on and off and loaded in ten minutes.

 

[Frenzal]

where did you get this number from? as has been pointed out, the manual says 80 ft/lbs, and if that isn't correct, i have no way of knowing

It's 94. Same as the FL5. There is an error in the manual. Discussed in many threads here and on FL5 forums.

 

[mattm]

I bought a Snap-On Torque wrench in the late nineties/early aughts. I went to try and match it a moment ago. Holy cow, they are expensive. One without as much range was $400+ the other was $600+.

 

[SlippyFist]

finally got everything i need for my wheel shenanigans. i didn't want to keep my full m18 + packout sockets in the trunk in case they get stolen, so they'll remain at home while i got the m12 with a small metric socket set and a cheaper torque wrench to actually keep in the trunk with the spare for roadside emergenices. wheel kit is complete!

yes that is the silicon condom you can buy for the milwaukee drills lmao. yes i'm neurotic, and crazy, and an idiot.

It's 94. Same as the FL5. There is an error in the manual. Discussed in many threads here and on FL5 forums.

i have seen that now. what about the lock lugs? i think the documentation that comes with them says 80 ft/lbs - is that also an error, or is that correct for those?

 

[Frenzal]

i have seen that now. what about the lock lugs? i think the documentation that comes with them says 80 ft/lbs - is that also an error, or is that correct for those?

Same as the other lugs!

 

[SilverRocket]

Seems like I'm late to the party for OP but for anyone looking through this thread in the future here's my suggestion which has served me well for the past 10 years.

-A corded nut busting impact wrench 1/2" (for removal only).
- A battery operated drill or driver with a 1/2" adapter chuck
- Impact Socket set that has both shallow and deep sockets for 17,18,19, 21 and 22mm
- Middle of the road quality torque wrench.

If you wait for sales, all of this can be had for less than $350CAD total for decent quality stuff, and that's excluding the fact that most people have the drill/driver already.

Methodology:

Setup. Get the proper size deep socket on the corded and the standard socket on the drill. Lift the car and have the replacement tire ready.

1) Use the corded to remove the 5 nuts
2) Remove the tire and put on the new one
3) Hand screw one nut until it catches the threads then use the battery drill to just get the nut to be seated lightly.
4) Adjust if required, then put on the other 4 nuts by hand a little then seat them with the drill.
5) Lower the car until the wheel just touches and use the torque wrench to torque it to the desired lbs·ft, then lower it the rest of the way.
6) Repeat three more times.

Basically the second drill is a luxury that saves time but I've come to learn that a tool strong enough to undo a nut after winter is much too powerful to put them back on properly, at least to my liking. So I use a drill just to spin the nut on more quickly.

 

[Baozzer]

I been using a craftsman’s 1/2” drive for about 10 years. Love it. If I were to buy a new one I would try and get Milwaukee just because my in law has everything and I been enjoying using it

 

[bpebler]

ah i see. i don't factor battery life into the equation for tools of this nature as their batteries are so widely available and easily replaced that it's pretty much a non-issue versus something like a phone that has a permanent un-removable battery.

We have several cordless Milwaukee batteries & tools with heavy use still going strong for over 20 years & no sign of losing strength/torque. You will be pleased.

 

[DE595]

finally got everything i need for my wheel shenanigans. i didn't want to keep my full m18 + packout sockets in the trunk in case they get stolen, so they'll remain at home while i got the m12 with a small metric socket set and a cheaper torque wrench to actually keep in the trunk with the spare for roadside emergenices. wheel kit is complete!

yes that is the silicon condom you can buy for the milwaukee drills lmao. yes i'm neurotic, and crazy, and an idiot.


i have seen that now. what about the lock lugs? i think the documentation that comes with them says 80 ft/lbs - is that also an error, or is that correct for those?

How’s the quality on that Lexivon Torque Wrench? Would you buy again?

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