Oil Recommendation!

[tegs]

Hey guys, gonna do first oil change in next month or so, getting ready for spring..
Was wondering whats the Best Oil to use for Spitirted Street driving?

Car is currentl;y tuned with DP and HVI, most likely will add Intercooler, charge pipes and inlet before the spring..
Does it matter if car is tuned or not on which oil to choose?
I live in Canada,so not the warmest climate ..

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[elh0102]

Why risk an online recommendation? Call the dealer. I'm not sure if they will recommend a brand, but think it is full synthetic 0W-20.

 

[SocalDE5]

I will recommend the Acura full synthetic 0w-20. It is the factory oil for our cars.
But......I don't always follow my advice, so I went with Motul 8100 Power synthetic 0W-20 and an oem oil filter for now.

Car runs just fine.

 

[bvanlieu]

There are some very well informed people on line...and there are some less informed. Same for dealers, those that understand these topics, and those that are clerks. I find unfortunately, the clerk to clue ratio favors the clerks at dealerships.

You can spend hours learning about the properties of oils at BITOG. Few threads on this already.

Not every 0w20 is made the same: add packs are different between blenders. It comes down to what you want to do with your oil change interval, and your application.

1. Do you want 10-12k OCIs? I would not use dealer bulk, as that is $20 or less oil that even the MFGs rate for no more then 7500 (Such as Mobil Super: what my local dealer put in on my first OC: thanks cheap ass dealer). A dealer likely is not using the Acura (Honda) oil but lower cost bulk. The honda oil is blended by Phillips66: its an unremarkable product, gets the job done. If my own $ I would not spend money on it, better oils for the same or even less.

2. If you are going to change more frequently, any quality synthetic will be fine for 5-6K OCI of non-track driving, stick with SP rated or a good euro oil with MB 229.5x and other specs. Supertech is fine even.

3. Our cars don't suffer fuel dilution like the L15, but we still get some. If you are concerned about that, I would personally run something that is more shear stable, which can be a 0 or 5w30 or a boutique 20 grade oil such as HPL (better base blends, even a no VII series which is very stable)

4. You are modified but that alone doesn't matter as much as if your car is running warmer or not due to higher boost and application (say tracking). Higher oil temps stress oil more which again calls for a shear stable oil, and I would prefer at least a euro 30 grade. We do not have a real oil temp gauge so typically this means heavy track work that stresses the cooling system, not street driving.

Why euro? the MB and other specs are tougher than API, and a 30 grade requires a HTHS rating of 3.5 or higher. 20 grades are in the 2.7 range. Euro specs are geared around longer drain invervals, where as API isn't as stringent hence the extended performance lines of some MFGs. What this gives you is safety margin if its shears down to a 20 g, vs a 20 going out of spec to a 16 or 8 grade (icky)

For the money at wally world, M1 ESP 0/30 is tough to beat spec wise. M1 EP is worth the extra few $ as well if you want an SP/API and longer OCis. I have used both the M1 EP 0/20 and currently am on the ESP. I also do lab analysis as I am looking at how my car performs with fuel dilution and how the oil stands up to shear before I comfortably go with annual oil changes.

I also work on my car so its fun to change the oil, but dropping premium oil at 5-6K when its perfectly good to continue isn't smart just because you feel 'good' about it

 

[tegs]

There are some very well informed people on line...and there are some less informed. Same for dealers, those that understand these topics, and those that are clerks. I find unfortunately, the clerk to clue ratio favors the clerks at dealerships.

You can spend hours learning about the properties of oils at BITOG. Few threads on this already.

Not every 0w20 is made the same: add packs are different between blenders. It comes down to what you want to do with your oil change interval, and your application.

1. Do you want 10-12k OCIs? I would not use dealer bulk, as that is $20 or less oil that even the MFGs rate for no more then 7500 (Such as Mobil Super: what my local dealer put in on my first OC: thanks cheap ass dealer). A dealer likely is not using the Acura (Honda) oil but lower cost bulk. The honda oil is blended by Phillips66: its an unremarkable product, gets the job done. If my own $ I would not spend money on it, better oils for the same or even less.

2. If you are going to change more frequently, any quality synthetic will be fine for 5-6K OCI of non-track driving, stick with SP rated or a good euro oil with MB 229.5x and other specs. Supertech is fine even.

3. Our cars don't suffer fuel dilution like the L15, but we still get some. If you are concerned about that, I would personally run something that is more shear stable, which can be a 0 or 5w30 or a boutique 20 grade oil such as HPL (better base blends, even a no VII series which is very stable)

4. You are modified but that alone doesn't matter as much as if your car is running warmer or not due to higher boost and application (say tracking). Higher oil temps stress oil more which again calls for a shear stable oil, and I would prefer at least a euro 30 grade. We do not have a real oil temp gauge so typically this means heavy track work that stresses the cooling system, not street driving.

Why euro? the MB and other specs are tougher than API, and a 30 grade requires a HTHS rating of 3.5 or higher. 20 grades are in the 2.7 range. Euro specs are geared around longer drain invervals, where as API isn't as stringent hence the extended performance lines of some MFGs. What this gives you is safety margin if its shears down to a 20 g, vs a 20 going out of spec to a 16 or 8 grade (icky)

For the money at wally world, M1 ESP 0/30 is tough to beat spec wise. M1 EP is worth the extra few $ as well if you want an SP/API and longer OCis. I have used both the M1 EP 0/20 and currently am on the ESP. I also do lab analysis as I am looking at how my car performs with fuel dilution and how the oil stands up to shear before I comfortably go with annual oil changes.

I also work on my car so its fun to change the oil, but dropping premium oil at 5-6K when its perfectly good to continue isn't smart just because you feel 'good' about it

Damn Thanks for this, alot of information here..
From my research I decided to go with Amsoil Signature Series 0w-20.. Seem to get alot of good reviews online..

 

[crepr12]

Owners manual.....

 

[nawfoo]

I strongly recommend maple syrup from New America near the Gulf of America. Let me know if you want me to ship you a few bottles.

 

[boosted_canoe]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20 has been working very well for me. Runs like a top even at the end of the oil change interval. much better than the Honda stuff or the crappy Valvoline the dealer uses. Was using HPL Premium PCMO but it's expensive and the Mobil 1 seems to run smoother for longer. Finally, no more fuel smell in the oil!

 

[elh0102]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20 has been working very well for me. Runs like a top even at the end of the oil change interval. much better than the Honda stuff or the crappy Valvoline the dealer uses. Was using HPL Premium PCMO but it's expensive and the Mobil 1 seems to run smoother for longer. Finally, no more fuel smell in the oil!

When you say the Mobil 1 is "much better than the Honda stuff," you obviously notice some differences. What are they?
Fuel smell in the oil is not the result of the oil quality. It can be caused by several mechanical or fuel issues, but not the oil.

 

[bvanlieu]

GDI engines suffer from fuel dilution, just a matter of how much.

Short tripping increases this, good long HWY runs helps reduce it.

Sample and test at a quality lab is the only way to find out fuel dilution (and the effective viscosity during service) of the oil.

No ones schnoz is capable of measuring the precise level of fuel dilution

 

[boosted_canoe]

When you say the Mobil 1 is "much better than the Honda stuff," you obviously notice some differences. What are they?
Fuel smell in the oil is not the result of the oil quality. It can be caused by several mechanical or fuel issues, but not the oil.

engine runs smoother at high rpms. doesn't smell like gas either. and this is my winter fill.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Pennzoil Platinum synthetic, 5W-30.

 

[ITSandMR2]

I personally chose Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic. If you want to go down a rabbit hole relating to engine oil feel free to check out the 540ratblog

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Damn Thanks for this, alot of information here..
From my research I decided to go with Amsoil Signature Series 0w-20.. Seem to get alot of good reviews online..

Amsoil is regularly tested as the gold standard.

Check out Bob is the oil guy. Lots of reviews and expertise there.

Regardless of your oil choice it's always wise to do a sample and have a lab test. I tested my factory fill coming out at 1800mi, the virgin oil going back in, and in a few months when the dealer changes it again I'll have them pull samples of the used and virgin oil again.

Fun fact, the data output from the factory fill was very far off from the virgin oil. I would bet money they're different oils. Not necessarily poor wear or anything on the factory fill, but it just had different detergent and additive values from the dealer oil.

 

[bvanlieu]

Amsoil is regularly tested as the gold standard.

Um, tested by who? Amsoil? Not knocking them as their Signature Series (SS) is likely what you are referring to as its their premium product, and excellent: but for the money other small blenders have arguably better products depending on what you intend to use the oil for (long drains, shear stable, low/no VII etc...)

The factory fill appears to be Type 2.0 oil which has a lot of moly in it, and not available retail in the US. The Honda/Acura Full Syn here is made by P66 and is meh. Both VOA of the Type 2.0 and samples of the factory show near identical data.

Odd how the EU manual (CTR, but identical K20C engine) *specifies* Type 2.0 it to be used, or 5/30 instead. Why different US? Hmmm Its unfortunate we don't get that here in the US, would be a good oil to use if Honda feels they need to put that in the EU manuals

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