DukeFrisbee
Senior Member
Agreed. I REALLY don't want to be the guy that discourages anyone or any company for supporting the platform but this almost never works. I've foolishly gone down this path at least 5 times over the years and it's always a disappointment. You can't just swap subs and have it work. The sub the OP spec'd requires 200W min and 350W optimal. So at most volumes this thing is going to see 20-30W? You'd prob have to peg the bass adj and crank it to even move the speaker area! Even on a PC with 5.1 speakers the videos seem like bass is cleaner and higher quality but actually less of it - and that's in a controlled environment. I suspect this does not feel like a $700+ upgrade when driving down the road. I'm not bashing the OP. I did the EXACT same thing in my GT350. Swapped subs, polyfilled the enclosure, etc. Still sounds like crap unless you're sitting in the car parked.It's a nice kit but the price is pretty steep. I totally get why; they're not gonna sell this in volume and they have to run a business. This is a nice middle ground as you say for folks who don't want to go all-in with a custom solution.
I think that's where I'm headed though. For the first time in a VERY long time, I'm convinced I'm keeping this car forever, so if I want an upgrade I won't half-step it. I'll probably set aside a good $5-7k for a convincing OEM+ upgrade. My benchmark is the Burmester system in my wife's Macan.
The OP should take the next step and find an input to tap and add an amp. THAT will make a difference. I'm surprised the vender put all the work into this and didn't take the extra time to come up with a complete package with subs designed to work with the volume of our enclosure, a plug and play amp, etc. I'd be far more inclined to spend $800-$1000 on a proven kit with sub, amp, and connectors vs $500 for a spacer and grill.
Sponsored