Tw1stedlog1k
Senior Member
- First Name
- Ken
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2023
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 562
- Reaction score
- 794
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- Apex Blue Pearl ITS
Exciting! Did Andy provide any renders?
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Trying out 19’s after 10+ sets of 18’s in the last 9 years of Honda ownership, and this is one of the setups that inspired meVery valid concerns, I initially had the similar concerns but I took the plunge anyway, because YOLO. I know our region isn't known for glass-smooth roads but overall I haven't had many issues and generally avoid steep inclines and steep parking lot entrances.
I did run a 275/35 initially (pictures below) but ran into some slight issues with rubbing. I feel that a 37 to 40 offset would have worked out great though, if sticking with 9.5" wide. Admittedly, I found that a 35 profile was a bit too dull for my tastes in terms of sharpness and response. Nothing major but just enough. I've been on 275/30 ever since and haven't looked back. So now I have practically brand new tires sitting in my shed. It might be time for us to have another meet over a couple of brews!
I believe @lumper runs a 25mm spacer setup on stock height, stock wheels and a 275/35 tire with no issues. @lumper would you have some pictures you could share?
Also, yes you can correct the speedometer reading with Hondata.
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not enough 19” wheel pics for the ITS. Would love to see post installTrying out 19’s after 10+ sets of 18’s in the last 9 years of Honda ownership, and this is one of the setups that inspired me
19x10 +40 Rays ZE40 with 275/30, lowered on H&R as well. Should be mounted end of next month as we transition to Spring weather
Yes, oem is continental. When you buy from Honda you get a plastic Honda baggy with a plastic continental baggy inside. 4 sensors makes for 8 baggies for the fishYes OEM (I believe they're made by Continental?).
Nope! It all comes together.![]()
Do you know if I need to pick up #22 separately? I would assume it's included in #19 given the diagram.
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I will also note, it's not a screw in style valve, it's a clamp style. This means you don't screw a sensor onto the valve where you can position it in different ways, but instead you put the valve through, hold the sensor where it needs to be and then tighten to torque spec. You MUST follow torque spec here or the sensor or valve could easily be damaged. A third of an ugga-dugga is not a specNope! It all comes together.
Do you happen to have the torque spec handy?I will also note, it's not a screw in style valve, it's a clamp style. This means you don't screw a sensor onto the valve where you can position it in different ways, but instead you put the valve through, hold the sensor where it needs to be and then tighten to torque spec. You MUST follow torque spec here or the sensor or valve could easily be damaged. A third of an ugga-dugga is not a spec![]()
. I do not trust typical tire shops on this... I do this part myself. I would not let a shop "replace the valve core" as part of their installation service unless yours is damaged. I forget the exact service life, but it's something like 80k miles...
I do not, but I do recall it's written on the baggy or in the conti instruction sheet. It's not a lot! Like 7 or 8Nm. About 1/4th what I typically consider "hand tight".Do you happen to have the torque spec handy?
Easy enough. It's not on the torque specs doc I haveI do not, but I do recall it's written on the baggy or in the conti instruction sheet. It's not a lot! Like 7 or 8Nm. About 1/4th what I typically consider "hand tight".
That's the plan!Victor with the low down!
@ABPDE5 also a good time to clean and ceramic coat the new wheels while they're fresh. Then mount the sensors yourself as Vic suggested.