JC-RH
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #1
I’m posting this info based on my experience. My goal was to get rid of most of the gap, reduce negative rear camber caused by the drop, and install spacers to give it that nice flush look. This setup is intended to hold me over until new 3pc wheels are delivered.
I have already order a set of 19x9 +33 Work VS-XX wheels with step lip. They should be delivered sometime in Spring 2023.
A couple other members have done the springs, but I haven’t come across anyone with rear camber arms or spacers. Here is what I did and I’m very satisfied with the outcome. Eventually I will probably like to go a bit lower when my wheels arrive.
WHEEL SPACERS (IMPORTANT!!):
I have done all sorts of spacers types and sizes on my previous cars. This one was a bit tricky IF you are planning to use the OEM 18s. I’m not sure about the optional OEM 19s. Usually wheels have a cavity in between the stud holes (when looking from the back side that mounts up to the rotor). Our 18s have those cavities, but the my are a bit shallow AND they are shifted out of the normal stud radius. I initially tried to install 15mm spacers in the front and noticed that the lugs would continue to turn with a bit of pressure but I couldn’t get them torqued. When I finally removed the wheel, I noticed that the CAR’S studs were slightly poking out of the 15mm spacers, and it would come in contact with the edge of the wheel cavity. I then decided to go 20mm in the front, and those additional 5mm helped to reduce the poke of the car’s studs, and I was able to torque the wheel lugs correctly. The rear, being 25mm, had no issues of any type. Keep in mind that our OEM lugs are close ended and a bit on the shallow side, so the studs on the spacers should not be more than 1”. Anything longer and you’ll bottom out the lug before it can be torqued tight. You can, of course, get new longer lug nuts if your spacers happen to have long studs.
REAR CAMBER ARMS:
Do yourself a favor and make sure you have a 17mm ratcheting wrench. The passenger side is a bit easier to work on, but the driver side is very cramped. You’ll thank me later.
ALIGNMENT:
I took it to a reputable high performance alignment shop in my area, and they were able to get everything exactly to factory specs. If no camber arms are installed, expect to be running around -3 degrees of camber. As long as your rear toe is 1/32 in (or 0.05 degrees in) you’ll still be ok, but of course being at -1.5 camber is better for several reasons. The front camber didn’t really change too much after the drop, and the shop was able to zero out the front toe with no trouble.
I am very pleased with the setup, and I have ZERO rubbing even on dips and bumps. I’m effectively running a 18x8 square setup with +30 offset in the front and +25 offset in the rear. The ride is a tad firmer than stock, but still pretty comfortable.
Parts installed:
Eibach Sportline springs
(part # E20-40-036-02-22)
SPC adjustable rear camber arms
(part # 67467)
20mm hubcentric front spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
25mm hubcentric rear spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
I have already order a set of 19x9 +33 Work VS-XX wheels with step lip. They should be delivered sometime in Spring 2023.
A couple other members have done the springs, but I haven’t come across anyone with rear camber arms or spacers. Here is what I did and I’m very satisfied with the outcome. Eventually I will probably like to go a bit lower when my wheels arrive.
WHEEL SPACERS (IMPORTANT!!):
I have done all sorts of spacers types and sizes on my previous cars. This one was a bit tricky IF you are planning to use the OEM 18s. I’m not sure about the optional OEM 19s. Usually wheels have a cavity in between the stud holes (when looking from the back side that mounts up to the rotor). Our 18s have those cavities, but the my are a bit shallow AND they are shifted out of the normal stud radius. I initially tried to install 15mm spacers in the front and noticed that the lugs would continue to turn with a bit of pressure but I couldn’t get them torqued. When I finally removed the wheel, I noticed that the CAR’S studs were slightly poking out of the 15mm spacers, and it would come in contact with the edge of the wheel cavity. I then decided to go 20mm in the front, and those additional 5mm helped to reduce the poke of the car’s studs, and I was able to torque the wheel lugs correctly. The rear, being 25mm, had no issues of any type. Keep in mind that our OEM lugs are close ended and a bit on the shallow side, so the studs on the spacers should not be more than 1”. Anything longer and you’ll bottom out the lug before it can be torqued tight. You can, of course, get new longer lug nuts if your spacers happen to have long studs.
REAR CAMBER ARMS:
Do yourself a favor and make sure you have a 17mm ratcheting wrench. The passenger side is a bit easier to work on, but the driver side is very cramped. You’ll thank me later.
ALIGNMENT:
I took it to a reputable high performance alignment shop in my area, and they were able to get everything exactly to factory specs. If no camber arms are installed, expect to be running around -3 degrees of camber. As long as your rear toe is 1/32 in (or 0.05 degrees in) you’ll still be ok, but of course being at -1.5 camber is better for several reasons. The front camber didn’t really change too much after the drop, and the shop was able to zero out the front toe with no trouble.
I am very pleased with the setup, and I have ZERO rubbing even on dips and bumps. I’m effectively running a 18x8 square setup with +30 offset in the front and +25 offset in the rear. The ride is a tad firmer than stock, but still pretty comfortable.
Parts installed:
Eibach Sportline springs
(part # E20-40-036-02-22)
SPC adjustable rear camber arms
(part # 67467)
20mm hubcentric front spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
25mm hubcentric rear spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
Sponsored
Last edited:
