DIY ceramic graphene or pro recommendations

[GTO]

Been washing, waxing and detailing the family cars myself for many years but have yet to use any ceramic or graphene products. I'm mainly interested in their supposed durability to keep a deep, long lasting shine.

Assuming the car has been properly prepared to apply the coating, which brand of ceramic or graphene would you recommend?

Are there are any shops in the northern Virginia area you could recommend and trust to do truly professional work?

Please share your experience, wisdom and advice.

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[ZeroGSR]

I just did Adam's Advanced Graphene (bottle, not spray) yesterday for the first time. It was surprisingly easy, very time consuming, but simple enough. This was after a wash, fallout remover, clay, and two step polish.

I have used their spray products with mixed results, the bottle is slower but more consistent and a superior product. I haven't used any other ceramics to compare. In my area it's $1500 for a paint prep + coat, so was worth it.

 

[Steve48]

I just did Adam's Advanced Graphene (bottle, not spray) yesterday for the first time. It was surprisingly easy, very time consuming, but simple enough. This was after a wash, fallout remover, clay, and two step polish.

I have used their spray products with mixed results, the bottle is slower but more consistent and a superior product. I haven't used any other ceramics to compare. In my area it's $1500 for a paint prep + coat, so was worth it.

I also used the Adam's graphene product a couple of years ago and would recommend. Pretty easy to apply, amazing water beading, etc...

 

[optronix]

I just did mine, actually still had half a bottle of the original Reflex Pro that I used on my Boxster. That was the 3rd car I've used it on, and all of them have been amazingly shiny and hydrophobic for long past the 6 months Larry suggests to reapply at (my son's 9th gen Civic Si hasn't been washed since it was applied a year ago and it still is somehow shiny)- and the new formula is supposed to last even longer.

It's been rainy and humid so I haven't taken pictures but I've been itching to do it so will probably get to that today, and I'll update the thread.

 

[JC-RH]

I’ve personally applied Avalon King Armor Shield IX to 3 cars. Results were pretty good so far. Last week, I used Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating (non-spray) for the first time. It’s supposed to last 7 years. Looks really great so far, and YouTube reviews further support its claimed durability.

 

[JC-RH]

The prep process is the most time consuming. It normally takes me around 10 hours to complete.

Wash
Iron removal
Rinse
Clay
Wash
Paint correction
Wash (with dish soap)
Dry thoroughly (blower for crevices)
IPA (alcohol spray)
Ceramic coat application

 

[optronix]

The prep process is the most time consuming. It normally takes me around 10 hours to complete.

Wash
Iron removal
Rinse
Clay
Wash
Paint correction
Wash (with dish soap)
Dry thoroughly (blower for crevices)
IPA (alcohol spray)
Ceramic coat application

This is excessively overexcessive.

Concours guys don't go to this level of insanity, but to each their own.

 

[Lflouie]

There are numerous products available ranging from washes, sprays, easy to apply (but short lived) bottled products, to the more expensive ceramics (with high volitile content), to those requiring UV curing. They all will improve the look and aid in the ease of maintenance....the question is for how long and to what level.

No matter which ceramic you choose, the proper paint prep, listed above, is what provides the luster and reflectivity. It is the ceramic coating type that determines how long the prep look will last and that " wet look".

The more expensive ceramics (popular brands C Quartz, Gyeon), that come in sealed bottles with a limited shelf life, contain volitiles which creates the bond to the paint and enhances luster. These products take more care and longer to apply, but usually less than 1 hr. They should be cured in sunlight for 8-10 hrs before becoming completely set after 24hrs but they typically last 3-5 yrs (garaged car) ...half of that for ungaraged cars, producing a chemical bond. The ceramic costs about $75 for 30ml.

The next tier are bottled but don't have the volitiles and generally rely on a "mechanical" bond to the paint (like most other coatings). These are easy to apply, very similar to a liquid wax, but much easier (less effort and percision) to apply and very little residue....like doing a spray on wax. Bc it is a mechanical bond it is not as durable and lasts about 1-2 years (garaged). In general they have good but lower luster levels than the higher end ceramics and much less expensive (<$30).

Spray on ceramics are as easy to apply as a spray wax, but they have very low bonding levels. Imo, they are more like post-wash finishing products that improve luster bc have a very short life (months). The easiest to apply and remove, generally under $20.

There are a number of reduces that don't fit neatly into these categories, but the more expensive ceramics with volities are the best bang for the buck for appearance, reflectivity and durability.

The cost and work is in the prep and paint correction, so once thr cars ready the cost of any ceramic finish is a mere fraction of the sunk cost preping the paint.

Note: ceramics can easily be polished off to remove in order to correct a scratch and then reapplied to the affected panel. However, if your car needs to be repainted, the ceramic must be fully removed bc any remaining coating will prevent new paint from bonding to the old paint.

 

[GTO]

I just did mine, actually still had half a bottle of the original Reflex Pro that I used on my Boxster. That was the 3rd car I've used it on, and all of them have been amazingly shiny and hydrophobic for long past the 6 months Larry suggests to reapply at (my son's 9th gen Civic Si hasn't been washed since it was applied a year ago and it still is somehow shiny)- and the new formula is supposed to last even longer.

It's been rainy and humid so I haven't taken pictures but I've been itching to do it so will probably get to that today, and I'll update the thread.

Good to know Larry's products match his zeal

Definitely looking forward to pics! I saw one in person and it reminded me of classic candy apple red. Beautiful, rich color on the ITS.

 

[GTO]

The prep process is the most time consuming. It normally takes me around 10 hours to complete.

Wash
Iron removal
Rinse
Clay
Wash
Paint correction
Wash (with dish soap)
Dry thoroughly (blower for crevices)
IPA (alcohol spray)
Ceramic coat application

Exactly this. I'm not getting any younger so finding the time and energy to prep and seal is getting tougher. Knowing the ceramics actually work to keep this cycle from occurring every few years sounds really good to me

 

[GTO]

There are numerous products available ranging from washes, sprays, easy to apply (but short lived) bottled products, to the more expensive ceramics (with high volitile content), to those requiring UV curing. They all will improve the look and aid in the ease of maintenance....the question is for how long and to what level.

No matter which ceramic you choose, the proper paint prep, listed above, is what provides the luster and reflectivity. It is the ceramic coating type that determines how long the prep look will last and that " wet look".

The more expensive ceramics (popular brands C Quartz, Gyeon), that come in sealed bottles with a limited shelf life, contain volitiles which creates the bond to the paint and enhances luster. These products take more care and longer to apply, but usually less than 1 hr. They should be cured in sunlight for 8-10 hrs before becoming completely set after 24hrs but they typically last 3-5 yrs (garaged car) ...half of that for ungaraged cars, producing a chemical bond. The ceramic costs about $75 for 30ml.

The next tier are bottled but don't have the volitiles and generally rely on a "mechanical" bond to the paint (like most other coatings). These are easy to apply, very similar to a liquid wax, but much easier (less effort and percision) to apply and very little residue....like doing a spray on wax. Bc it is a mechanical bond it is not as durable and lasts about 1-2 years (garaged). In general they have good but lower luster levels than the higher end ceramics and much less expensive (<$30).

Spray on ceramics are as easy to apply as a spray wax, but they have very low bonding levels. Imo, they are more like post-wash finishing products that improve luster bc have a very short life (months). The easiest to apply and remove, generally under $20.

There are a number of reduces that don't fit neatly into these categories, but the more expensive ceramics with volities are the best bang for the buck for appearance, reflectivity and durability.

The cost and work is in the prep and paint correction, so once thr cars ready the cost of any ceramic finish is a mere fraction of the sunk cost preping the paint.

Note: ceramics can easily be polished off to remove in order to correct a scratch and then reapplied to the affected panel. However, if your car needs to be repainted, the ceramic must be fully removed bc any remaining coating will prevent new paint from bonding to the old paint.

You finally got an ITS, did all the prep work and are ready to apply the ceramic...which bottled brand would you use?

 

[GTO]

Thanks to everyone for this great info!

 

[JC-RH]

This is excessively overexcessive.

Concours guys don't go to this level of insanity, but to each their own.

It sounds like a lot, and it is. However, I don’t think it’s going overboard. The proper prep is required for great lasting results. What steps would you cut out?

 

[Lflouie]

You finally got an ITS, did all the prep work and are ready to apply the ceramic...which bottled brand would you use?

I have personal experience with Gyeon and CQuartz UK 2.0 AND 3.0, both do the job.

The CQuartz UK is blended for a moderate and somewhat wetter climate. I live in TN which is a moderate and warmer climate than the north east US but wetter than the south west. I have used this on 5 different cars, it works well and
goes on easily.

A friend recommended the Gyeon, which I tried this year. He lives in Denver and finds that it works well in his colder and drier climate (he had not tried C Quartz).

Gyeon and CQuartz UK appear to be very similar, but I found that the CQuartz was easier to apply a consistent/uniform coating there fore the gloss was flawless, but I needed to redo a few panels with the Gyeon ( note: it is easy to redo, so not an overall issue).

It was pointed out that I you can get a stain if the coating is done incorrectly. I have never experienced a stain but I seen a "distortion" when not applied to a consistent thickness, especially when overlapping sections during application.

I didn't seen this until after it had cured on the hood. Bc the hood is flat and very visible I noticed the defect. Simply using a light polishing compound to remove that area and reapplying another coat of the ceramic easily corrected my mistake.

Don't let ceramic scare you. It is just another coating but it chemically bonds to the surface....that's why it is more durable. It is not a "for ever" bond and is easily removed with rubbing compound or cleaner/polish, even after curing.

There are other mfgrs, like Adam's and several more, and this part of the auto detailing has grown rapidly with a continuous stream of new product being released.

There are some great UTube videos on how to apply and use ceramics, it really is all about patience and paint prep.

https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramic-coating?utm_source=180 Day Engaged&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Labor Day Sale + Mystery Products #1 (01H91PFETM5CSDZE150HCBMGZ1)&_kx=wAA97dZXk4iBeypvU6vMpkH3SByBUxdlxPugsNiIbnA=.Q2QtVm

 

[Lflouie]

It sounds like a lot, and it is. However, I don’t think it’s going overboard. The proper prep is required for great lasting results. What steps would you cut out?

It isn't (or shouldn't be) about eliminating steps but rather to what degree it is needed.

On a new car that has been shipped by rail, you will find iron (brown spots) on the paint....especially noticeable on lighter colored cars, but just bc you don't see it on a dark that was next to a white car, doesn't mean it's there.

Removing iron before it is imbeded in the finish is a needed first step on a new car. (PS: my local Acura dealer does an iron decontamination on all of their new Acuras as part of the pre-sale prep).

Always claybar before any wax or coating is applied to make a glass smooth finish.

On a new the paint correction should be minimal, and more likely a simple light polishing.

Bc polish has oils in the mixture, an alcohol or pre-coating prep that strips off any wax, oils or other residual polish contaminants is very important when using the higher quality ceramics.

I fully understand that I am one that expects and maintains my cars as if they would be going to a local car show each weekend, and most people have no interest in doing so.

As my mechanic knows when he does work for me.....perfect is acceptable....the same goes for my paint and body condition.

Note: I have participated in concours, even winning one, so my expectations of my own cars is very high....but gained lots of hands on experience in prep and auto paint maintenance.

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