First Oil Change @ 4775mi - Oil Analyzers Inc. Used Oil Anaysis Report

[GenericBlueITS]

I did my first oil change recently at 4,775 miles and sent some of the oil off to Oil Analyzers Inc. for an analysis of the used factory fill oil. I was surprised by the fuel dilution %, and I will continue to monitor it.

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[bvanlieu]

How much is your short tripping? traffic and long Idling? any decent amount prior to the sample or oil change?

I do a lot of HWY miles, my dilution on my first report was a bit under 2% from a 5K sample of M1 EP 0w20. I would not be too alarmed with that report as the oil's viscosity didn't slide below a 20 grade yet, but also something to keep eye on if you want to do extended OCIs.

Unless you ponied up for the type Honda 2.0, your next oil will be a different blend so sample again in 5K

 

[MidwestDE5]

Could the fuel dilution be caused by the factory tune for pops and bangs? As I understand it the computer adds fuel and pulls timing to create the pops.

 

[Brittania]

Could the fuel dilution be caused by the factory tune for pops and bangs? As I understand it the computer adds fuel and pulls timing to create the pops.

CTR's without pops and bangs seem to have a decent amount of fuel dilution too. I'm guessing these cars will do better with cheaper oil at lower OCI's than fancy oil at longer OCI's. I'm doing every 3000 mi just for peace of mind.

 

[SilverRocket]

It'd be nice to start a running record of oil analysis versus average driving distance and driving style.

For example someone who regularly gets high teens, low 20's fuel economy, are they more likely to experience less dilution thanks to their leaded feet.

 

[optronix]

How much is your short tripping? traffic and long Idling? any decent amount prior to the sample or oil change?

I do a lot of HWY miles, my dilution on my first report was a bit under 2% from a 5K sample of M1 EP 0w20. I would not be too alarmed with that report as the oil's viscosity didn't slide below a 20 grade yet, but also something to keep eye on if you want to do extended OCIs.

Unless you ponied up for the type Honda 2.0, your next oil will be a different blend so sample again in 5K

Tell me more about this special Honda oil. I saw this referenced this morning on the Civic forums, specifically, "Honda Leo" oil or something like that... but Google didn't do much for me. I've heard it's actually pretty good, but I want more confidence that my local Acura dealer won't stare blankly at me- or worse, promise it'll get done and then not do it- if I ask for special Honda oil.

I REALLY don't want to change my own oil unless I absolutely have to. I'm fine with paying the dealer to do it. Thing is though, I trusted Porsche dealers to change the oil because they're required to use special Porsche oil, which if I'm not mistaken is actually Mobil1 (at least that's what I believed); that sentiment is not necessarily reciprocated for Acura dealers. I'm not an oil nerd by any stretch but if I'm going to keep this car a while AND be taking it to a track occasionally I don't want basic well oil going in it, even every 3k miles.

 

[bvanlieu]

The Honda type 2.0 is not sold in the US AFAIU.

https://www.dream-automotive.com/pr...8GyPgxpYcEdyUE8rXsl1dmGWwhKSA2vCHNXUzHxuM06UL

Its appears to be a high moly Idemitsu blend based on VOA and UOA results I have also seen posted to BITOG if you want to geek out.

Is it good? Yes. Is it worth the $24/qt? I don't think so...for less then that I would run HPL which is a fantastic low volume oil if you want to go that route, and what I would run if I wanted to do 12K OCIs. I would bet a big steak dinner no dealer in the US has a clue this oil exists either.

Since I DIY and enjoy wrenching, I am doing a mid-year OC myself, and once a year with the dealer. I will simply bring my own oil, pay for the labor and filter, be on my way. This gets me there once every 10-11K miles, puts it on file I am doing oil changes.


There are a lot of very good oils out there, but if you want to do a longer oil change interval I would recommend something like an EP or Euro oil with harder to meet certs as we still will see some fuel dilution and I am not a fan of 0w20 diluted down below a 20 grade in terms of wear factor.

Euro xw30 will have a higher HTHS of 3.5, such as M1 ESP. My go to is M1 EP 0w20 as its made for longer OCIs and $27 on sale at wally world. This is getting into oil-geek territory I know

I don't want to get into arguments with a 'service advisor', who are trained on key words but can't distinguish the 'recommended' vs. 'required' in the user manual, such as me trying to bring a 5/30 to the dealer instead and being told YOU ARE REQUIRED TO USE 0w20.

They don't teach reading comprehension these days...so I will still bring a 0w20 myself for the 'winter' change


Side topic, most P dealers should simply be using Mobil 1 0w40 (may be re-labled now as euro or supercar but its 0w40) though some newer cars like Macans etc....will also have the CAFE led 0w20 or 0w30 recommendations. Our Cayman always got the 0w40 at the local PA dealer until they doubled the oil change price on me post covid and I said I like you but I don't like you $400 worth and I can DIY for $80 thank you very little.

 

[bvanlieu]

Could the fuel dilution be caused by the factory tune for pops and bangs? As I understand it the computer adds fuel and pulls timing to create the pops.

No, because the fuel is being dumped and a bang is going on (hence the pops).

I have that on more then 80% of the time myself

 

[optronix]

The Honda type 2.0 is not sold in the US AFAIU.

https://www.dream-automotive.com/pr...8GyPgxpYcEdyUE8rXsl1dmGWwhKSA2vCHNXUzHxuM06UL

Its appears to be a high moly Idemitsu blend based on VOA and UOA results I have also seen posted to BITOG if you want to geek out.

Is it good? Yes. Is it worth the $24/qt? I don't think so...for less then that I would run HPL which is a fantastic low volume oil if you want to go that route, and what I would run if I wanted to do 12K OCIs. I would bet a big steak dinner no dealer in the US has a clue this oil exists either.

Since I DIY and enjoy wrenching, I am doing a mid-year OC myself, and once a year with the dealer. I will simply bring my own oil, pay for the labor and filter, be on my way. This gets me there once every 10-11K miles, puts it on file I am doing oil changes.


There are a lot of very good oils out there, but if you want to do a longer oil change interval I would recommend something like an EP or Euro oil with harder to meet certs as we still will see some fuel dilution and I am not a fan of 0w20 diluted down below a 20 grade in terms of wear factor.

Euro xw30 will have a higher HTHS of 3.5, such as M1 ESP. My go to is M1 EP 0w20 as its made for longer OCIs and $27 on sale at wally world. This is getting into oil-geek territory I know

I don't want to get into arguments with a 'service advisor', who are trained on key words but can't distinguish the 'recommended' vs. 'required' in the user manual, such as me trying to bring a 5/30 to the dealer instead and being told YOU ARE REQUIRED TO USE 0w20.

They don't teach reading comprehension these days...so I will still bring a 0w20 myself for the 'winter' change


Side topic, most P dealers should simply be using Mobil 1 0w40 (may be re-labled now as euro or supercar but its 0w40) though some newer cars like Macans etc....will also have the CAFE led 0w20 or 0w30 recommendations. Our Cayman always got the 0w40 at the local PA dealer until they doubled the oil change price on me post covid and I said I like you but I don't like you $400 worth and I can DIY for $80 thank you very little.

Thanks for this, it's helpful to have a translator for the oil geek verbiage that ultimately does not matter to me. I just don't want junk going in my engine if I can help it.

And yeah, the Porsche tax is now very, very real. I had always taken all my Porsches to the same dealer for service, but the last time I was supposed to bring my Macan in for a 20k service and was quoted $1800 for basically an oil change and air filter, I found a reputable indy down the road that did it for literally 1/4 of that. They use exclusively Liqui Moly but I'm ok with that.

 

[GenericBlueITS]

How much is your short tripping? traffic and long Idling? any decent amount prior to the sample or oil change?

I do a lot of HWY miles, my dilution on my first report was a bit under 2% from a 5K sample of M1 EP 0w20. I would not be too alarmed with that report as the oil's viscosity didn't slide below a 20 grade yet, but also something to keep eye on if you want to do extended OCIs.

Unless you ponied up for the type Honda 2.0, your next oil will be a different blend so sample again in 5K

I live out in the middle of nowhere, I don't think I've ever done a trip under ~10 miles. Low traffic, very little idling--neither immediately prior to the sample. With the viscosity not being impacted, I'm not too concerned with the fuel dilution levels. Will definitely resample, maybe even before my next OCI, I do have another test kit already. I refilled with Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20, and I used a quart of Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic to flush the used factory oil.

Could the fuel dilution be caused by the factory tune for pops and bangs? As I understand it the computer adds fuel and pulls timing to create the pops.

I suspect it may be related to the fuel that I purchased. I've been running cheap fuel (still 93 octane) since I got the car. I got to ~4000 miles when I started to only run Top Tier rated fuels, which have more detergents. I also do 90% of my driving in Sport+ engine mode. Maybe the injectors were getting mildly fouled and struggling to atomize?

I ran some Redline SI-1 a few tanks before the oil change. Hopefully that and the higher-quality fuel will make a difference.

 

[bvanlieu]

I live out in the middle of nowhere, I don't think I've ever done a trip under ~10 miles. Low traffic, very little idling--neither immediately prior to the sample. With the viscosity not being impacted, I'm not too concerned with the fuel dilution levels. Will definitely resample, maybe even before my next OCI, I do have another test kit already. I refilled with Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20, and I used a quart of Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic.



I suspect it may be related to the fuel that I purchased. I've been running cheap fuel (still 93 octane) since I got the car. I got to ~4000 miles when I started to only run Top Tier rated fuels, which have more detergents. I also do 90% of my driving in Sport+ engine mode. Maybe the injectors were getting mildly fouled and struggling to atomize?

I ran some Redline SI-1 a few tanks before the oil change. Hopefully that and the higher-quality fuel will make a difference.

To be clear, from that sample it is thinner, its just on the low end of the grade at this point. which is 5.6-9.29 for a 20 grade.

Most 0w20's will be in the low to mid 8's to start. Some fall faster then others as things break down. I suspect your higher then average dilution pushed it down a tad. That 6.5 is closer to a 16 grade then it is a 30 grade

For non top-tier, I put an ounce of Techron in per tank then, which is about what normal Chevron fuel gets in terms of every day cleaning formulation. With the exception of Costco (which does put additives in their gas at delivery), its hard to say what if anything is added to non top-tier. So many cars run it, and with DI the days of dirty intakes are long gone.

Techron, especially if you stock up on BOGO sales, is an easy and cost effective way to treat fuel for the OCD types.

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