Burples and pops GONE, Fixed.

[slo_its]

So I've been dealing with lost pops and burbles for a few days. It all started with a popped charge pipe. I have to say that HPS fitment is not anywhere close as accurate as PRL stuff.

Anyway, pops and burbles were fine after I popped it back temporarily to get home and there was no CEL. After I took things apart to refit and re-tighten, I forgot to plug in the IAT sensor by the intake. Car threw a bunch of errors and got a CEL. Stopped, plugged it back in, everything felt fine but no pops and burbles. Thought it would be back once CEL clears but when it did clear, the pops and burbles didn't come back and hasn't for about 100km of driving now.

I assume it has some codes still. I'll try a battery reset first. I don't have an OBD tool handy.

For anyone wondering about pops and burbles being less loud. I recall that mine got louder as I drove more up till 5000km or so. I really hope it doesn't take that long on reset. I have disconnected battery twice before without affecting it previously though.

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[koatic]

UPDATE!!!!!!

So I installed the PRL HVI this week..
Immediately when I went for my first test drive, I noticed the pops and burbles were gone again.
On the highway I gave it some gas and it bogged a bit (seemly more turbo lag than stock) and the CEL flickered on and off a few times and then disappeared. I noticed the turbo spool was ridiculously slow and the car definitely seemed ill. So, I limped it home and pulled out the reader.
I had 4 pending codes.

This was very strange indeed. I cleared the codes and Pops and burbles were instantly back.
went for a fun 15 minute drive and could still hear pops and burbles clearly over all the hissing and whooshing from the HVI.. everything seemed good.
Also want to make a note here that now my boost goes to 23 and prior to installing the HVI it maxed at 19 even wide open on the dyno so the MAF readings definitely control what boost the ECU will allow..
Next morning I go to work and pops and burbles are gone.. Car is still running great and no CEL. checked with reader for pending codes and natta. So I disconnected battery and let it sit overnight.
reconnected battery and had system initializing on dash and then it went to normal but the pops and burbles are gone. No code to clear this time and ECU reset made no difference.
Anyone have issues after installing the PRL HVI??
Was on fence about the jailbreak but at this point I am thinking I need it.

 

[bpebler]

UPDATE!!!!!!

So I installed the PRL HVI this week..
Immediately when I went for my first test drive, I noticed the pops and burbles were gone again.
On the highway I gave it some gas and it bogged a bit (seemly more turbo lag than stock) and the CEL flickered on and off a few times and then disappeared. I noticed the turbo spool was ridiculously slow and the car definitely seemed ill. So, I limped it home and pulled out the reader.
I had 4 pending codes.

This was very strange indeed. I cleared the codes and Pops and burbles were instantly back.
went for a fun 15 minute drive and could still hear pops and burbles clearly over all the hissing and whooshing from the HVI.. everything seemed good.
Also want to make a note here that now my boost goes to 23 and prior to installing the HVI it maxed at 19 even wide open on the dyno so the MAF readings definitely control what boost the ECU will allow..
Next morning I go to work and pops and burbles are gone.. Car is still running great and no CEL. checked with reader for pending codes and natta. So I disconnected battery and let it sit overnight.
reconnected battery and had system initializing on dash and then it went to normal but the pops and burbles are gone. No code to clear this time and ECU reset made no difference.
Anyone have issues after installing the PRL HVI??
Was on fence about the jailbreak but at this point I am thinking I need it.

Hmmm, that’s odd. Similar to mine, but still different and different codes. After installing the PRL HVI and reconnecting the battery after charge pipes and stuff it took a couple drive cycles for the CEL’s & dash notifications to go away. Still didn’t have exhaust sounds. Code reader said “p0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit”. Cleared it and they came right back.

No issues for just over a week. But noticed something weird earlier.

Went out for family dinner, left, and got about 5 minutes down the road and while passing a few officers I turned it down to comfort mode like I often do until I get further away and then go back into individual with engine on sport+. Exhaust pops and gurgles were gone & didn’t come back on during the 25 minute drive home. Parked and unloaded. Started up and drove down to park in the shop to avoid chipmunks (pic for laughs). Gave it a couple revs and still nothing. Hooked code reader up and got p0420 “Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank”. What is that??? Nothing on the forum with that code. I cleared it but didn’t start back up to check, had to get the kids ready for bed.

 

[koatic]

@bpebler Dude! Your last pic of your cabin filter explains it all. You have gremlins!!!
what the heck?

is your ECU still stock or jailbroken?
wonder if these mods are fine and no cel alone but once all stacked the ECU detects things are out of normal threshold. I think most people that already have this many mods already have jail broken ECU with tune to handle the higher A/F ratios.
Just a thought

 

[bpebler]

@bpebler Dude! Your last pic of your cabin filter explains it all. You have gremlins!!!
what the heck?

is your ECU still stock or jailbroken?
wonder if these mods are fine and no cel alone but once all stacked the ECU detects things are out of normal threshold. I think most people that already have this many mods already have jail broken ECU with tune to handle the higher A/F ratios.
Just a thought

Lol it’s unlocked. For about 9k miles with Derek’s TSP tune. Only thing new is HVI & charge pipes. He mentioned in the chat that the GESI cat in the TSP downpipe is typically clean enough to avoid that. Another in the chat said he’d get that code sometimes with the 27won catted downpipe. He said code wouldn’t always trip for him though. Hopefully the clearing of the code fixes it. So annoying. I’m support be doing Kuro install and new base tune Monday. But now I’m wondering if this needs addressing first.

 

[StingertimeNC]

ugh! this stuff is what scares me from tuning and or changing a bunch of stuff. Charge pipes, downpipes, intercooler, etc. I hate, hate, hate when my car is not running right! Hope you guys get it figured out. Appreciate you posting about stuff.

 

[bpebler]

ugh! this stuff is what scares me from tuning and or changing a bunch of stuff. Charge pipes, downpipes, intercooler, etc. I hate, hate, hate when my car is not running right! Hope you guys get it figured out. Appreciate you posting about stuff.

Don’t blame you one bit. I feel the same way really but was assured no issues. I’ll say that it’s still running strong for sure, just no sounds right now. Honestly I still think it’s just from disconnecting the battery on these modern systems. Another theory I have is that I don’t like oiled air filters and the HVI comes pre-oiled. I’m thinking what could’ve made the downpipe sensor dirty other than that.

 

[koatic]

I am at cars and coffee this morning and noticed a puddle of oil in the base of the HVI chamber and was thinking holy crap that thing had way more oil than I thought. Was wondering if that is what caused my misfire codes and subsequently a malfunctioning MAF as well. Then I read your post and am thinking yup. Not sure if cleaning the MAF will solve issue or if it needs to be replaced.

 

[slo_its]

I had zero issues with HVI until I made my own screw up of not plugging the sensor in. Prior to that, drove without issues and just fun for at least 1000km and a few hundred km after charge pipes. Waiting to see if battery reset helps today

 

[koatic]

Hmmm new MAF is $145 from Acura and $97 from alldiscountparts.
Might try cleaning it first.

 

[bpebler]

Hmmm new MAF is $145 from Acura and $97 from alldiscountparts.
Might try cleaning it first.

What do you clean it with?

 

[ITSDAD]

The worm gear clamps, on both the intake and charge pipes, are worth a check if you're already poking around, probably not the cause of the CELs, but I did notice after a few drives that mine (HVI and turbo inlet only) had become quite loose.

 

[koatic]

So I just left cars and coffee event and to my suprise the pops and burbles are back. Noticed it was right about 10 miles since I reset my ECU. Have not done anything with MAF since it started working again when I left event to go home. Gonna take it out to the highway later today and really stretch its legs and see how it is responding now. Just checked OBD and all green. Wonder if 10 is the magic number of miles for the ECU to relearn after a full reset? Seems that is about same mileage it needs after it goes crazy on the Dyno to properly reset.

@bpebler have you tried clearing all
pending codes and then disconnecting battery for a few hours in that order. Then drive about 10 miles and see if they return? Curious if your car responds the same way mine did.

 

[slo_its]

I did the battery disconnect this morning. Have driven 15km so just under 10miles and definitely had one opportunity for it to get warm enough. Still hasn't come back yet. Ordered a basic OBD scanner and hoping it is good enough. Will keep driving until I receive it and see if it returns without additional help.

 

[bpebler]

So I just left cars and coffee event and to my suprise the pops and burbles are back. Noticed it was right about 10 miles since I reset my ECU. Have not done anything with MAF since it started working again when I left event to go home. Gonna take it out to the highway later today and really stretch its legs and see how it is responding now. Just checked OBD and all green. Wonder if 10 is the magic number of miles for the ECU to relearn after a full reset? Seems that is about same mileage it needs after it goes crazy on the Dyno to properly reset.

@bpebler have you tried clearing all
pending codes and then disconnecting battery for a few hours in that order. Then drive about 10 miles and see if they return? Curious if your car responds the same way mine did.

I only cleared the code but haven’t started it back up yet. About to shortly and then drive it though. I’d like to avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. That’s what I felt led to all this anyway.

Question - why is it to clear code and then disconnect battery in that order? And is it true to always remove the negative cable first? Is there something about the length of time while disconnected that something happens? I guess I don’t want to reset my ecu since I’ve flashed the tune onto it, but how do you reset the ecu?

D-Rob did confirm that a dirty MAF would not give me my particular code of p0420.

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