Do we have any torque settings / tips for a DIY spring swap ?

[IntegraSpeed]

I have just over 500miles on my 10 day old Type S. I'll be receiving my eibach pro kit springs and my bonoss spacers this weekend. I'm thinking about changing the springs on Sunday, then following up with an alignment in i dunno 200 miles or so.

I've never owned a Honda or Acura before, always been a VW / Audi guy for the last 20yrs. But i have done perhaps 5 or 6 DIY spring swaps in the past on the VW platform. But one thing i've always had was a good plan, with all the exact torque settings, things to look out for such as the expensive lighting leveler switches, that will snap, if you forget to disconnect. Also many bolts were one time use. For what i've seen on the Honda platform, no-one seems to bother changing the bolts, but then again there's not a lot out there on these cars or the FL5. it seems easier overall than the damn pressure pinch knuckle of the VW's where people such as myself who don't have the luxury of a lift, got creative using 2x4 pieces of wood, and jacked the strut out of the knuckle from the ground, while spreading the knuckle with a tool jammed in the gap. Maybe it'll be more challenging once i'm in there. But anyway, i'm not a mechanic, by any means other than what i've taught myself at weekends doing DIY. But it has been 6yrs since i changed any springs.. i do have all the tools, to work off the ground (impacts, compressor, pry bars, jack stands and two trolley jacks. also special sockets, for the top strut nut)

Has anyone got any tips or torque settings that they'd care to share for a DIY'er tackling this by himself ? I think the strut nut is 18mm. I checked my tool chest last night and realized i only had a 19 and 21mm strut nutt socket, where you can also torque down the bolt so just ordered an 18mm off Amazon. This was based off an FL5 install i watched last night, and AFAIK we share the same components. Or i may just zip it down with an impact and 'hope' its around the right torque... Again, go easy on me, i'm a noob on the Honda / Acura platform... Only a mere 10 days in and 500miles ago i was a 20yr German auto enthusiast.

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[StingertimeNC]

Here are the torque specs for civic SI and Type R. Use the Type R torque values of course!

I have the Eibach pro kit installed, it's awesome! It was very straighforward. i watched a you tube video of a guy doing it on an FL5 the "easy way" and it worked great. Of course there's always some swearing and grunting along the way but this guys video was exactly what I needed. Helps to have a buddy around for more muscle and an extra set of hands.

Oh, be sure to get an alignment within a day or so of install.

View attachment Torque Specs Si and Type R.docx (1).pdf

 

[ChromaPop]

Here are the torque specs for civic SI and Type R. Use the Type R torque values of course!

I have the Eibach pro kit installed, it's awesome! It was very straighforward. i watched a you tube video of a guy doing it on an FL5 the "easy way" and it worked great. Of course there's always some swearing and grunting along the way but this guys video was exactly what I needed. Helps to have a buddy around for more muscle and an extra set of hands.

Oh, be sure to get an alignment within a day or so of install.

View attachment Torque Specs Si and Type R.docx (1).pdf

Do you think the ITS torque specs are equal to the CTR in every case?

 

[StingertimeNC]

I absolutely do believe that to be the case. It's what I used as well. I also checked all torque values a couple days after completing install to make sure they all stayed the same and they did.

All that being said I'm no expert. Outside of tuning for suspension and engine, the ITS is basically a carbon copy of the FL5

 

[kjechel]

Has anyone got any tips or torque settings that they'd care to share for a DIY'er tackling this by himself ?

@NSXavier posted a great video showing the entire process in great detail, but was forced by his employer to remove it. Maybe you can PM him to get it. Here is the master mechanic at work.

 

[IntegraSpeed]

Thanks it would appear that most bolts / nuts are use new, in other words they're stretch bolts, and the true torque settings won't be the same after they've been already torqued in a previous application... Mind you, i'll be honest, i just re-used all my bolts on all my installs, and never had an issue. I wonder if a proper tech follows every little rule by the book, or if they just go for it, and probably even unless they're doing a clutch torque down by feel rather than wrench.. i've never worked as a mechanic so this is pure speculation. Always wondered.

 

[StingertimeNC]

I re-used my bolts as well. My mechanic chuckled when i said the thing about new bolts. He said on a new car not necessary. I will also add I always re-used bolts on my previous 6 or 7 cars as well, no issue. Not saying it's the right thing to do, just telling you what I've done historically.

 

[IntegraSpeed]

I tried installing my springs tonight and REALLY struggled. I just couldn't get the strut out of the knuckle. Not by just loosening the two 17mm pinch bolts, and both sway bar links from both sides. I jigged it around back and forth, used pry bars, WD40 and one i sort of got maybe nearly out, but the other wouldn't move. Then i got nervous cos the side i nearly got out, the strut twisted, and i wasn't able to twist it back to get it back together. I was worried that i had now stranded my car in my garage, and well that wouldn't be good, as i NEED it for tomorrow. That was enough for me,. I somehow managed to twist the strut back in line, after sweating bullets and I just ended up putting everything back together again, and was happy to be rolling again. Maybe i'm missing something, but i felt being that the knuckle is aluminum and i was putting a fair bit of force on the strut and knuckle with the pry bar, i was worried i'd mess something up. Also i felt that even if i got the strut out of the knuckle, it would still be pressing up too tight by upward force against the strut, and getting it back in, could be a nightmare.

But i am going to try again. I just need to give myself a bit more time and show it some patience i guess. and now i'm going to be more comfortable, and familiar with the car... I'm also going to try just jacking up the strut with some wood to help lift the strut out the knuckle like i did for the VW's i've done in the past, and see how that goes.. But round one was a fail ! i thought i'd have it knocked out in a couple of hrs... Perhaps i need to figure out exactly where to place my pry bar to get it out. There's got to be some technique to it that i just wasn't getting. Reminds me a bit of like trying to get a tire off a wheel. First time you try it you're like f.this, this isn't happening.. But once you've figured out the technique, and it is all technique, its actually reasonably easy. I wish i had an extra set of hands as well tonight.. I think things would have gone a lot easier had that been the case.

 

[notorious9i6]

I tried installing my springs tonight and REALLY struggled. I just couldn't get the strut out of the knuckle. Not by just loosening the two 17mm pinch bolts, and both sway bar links from both sides. I jigged it around back and forth, used pry bars, WD40 and one i sort of got maybe nearly out, but the other wouldn't move. Then i got nervous cos the side i nearly got out, the strut twisted, and i wasn't able to twist it back to get it back together. I was worried that i had now stranded my car in my garage, and well that wouldn't be good, as i NEED it for tomorrow. That was enough for me,. I somehow managed to twist the strut back in line, after sweating bullets and I just ended up putting everything back together again, and was happy to be rolling again. Maybe i'm missing something, but i felt being that the knuckle is aluminum and i was putting a fair bit of force on the strut and knuckle with the pry bar, i was worried i'd mess something up. Also i felt that even if i got the strut out of the knuckle, it would still be pressing up too tight by upward force against the strut, and getting it back in, could be a nightmare.

But i am going to try again. I just need to give myself a bit more time and show it some patience i guess. and now i'm going to be more comfortable, and familiar with the car... I'm also going to try just jacking up the strut with some wood to help lift the strut out the knuckle like i did for the VW's i've done in the past, and see how that goes.. But round one was a fail ! i thought i'd have it knocked out in a couple of hrs... Perhaps i need to figure out exactly where to place my pry bar to get it out. There's got to be some technique to it that i just wasn't getting. Reminds me a bit of like trying to get a tire off a wheel. First time you try it you're like f.this, this isn't happening.. But once you've figured out the technique, and it is all technique, its actually reasonably easy. I wish i had an extra set of hands as well tonight.. I think things would have gone a lot easier had that been the case.

I struggled too. some tips are use a really big pry bar. that's what i did.

Also make sure you do the front together. I disconnected the height adjust sensor and pretty much everything hooked up to the sway bar.

 

[StingertimeNC]

yes, if you follow the instructions in the you tube vid exactly it will work. I used PB Blaster as he did on the vid too. Also got a set of the long pry bars. Doing springs like this always sucks to some degree, always a wrestling match. I had a friend and a lift though. Definitely some twisting of the strut to get it ligned up and you need to jack it back into place and stuff. It really helps to have the extra set of hands though.

 

[IntegraSpeed]

OK got it done tonight !!! it went soooooooooooo much better. Had a friend help me... I'm going to give some tips.

1.\ Don't bother with the spring compressor, its absolutely not needed. Maybe if you're doing it by yourself, but with two of you, one of you push down on the spring and the other zip the strut nut down. But when taking apart the stock springs, it will not shoot out..

2.\ BIG ONE, if working off the ground !! Get yourselves a piece of wood 2x4 23" and use your trolley jack to lift the spring out of the knuckle.. Yeah you're still going to have to wrestle a little, but we had it out in less than 2min. No pry bars pressing and chewing up the aluminum Compared to my 2hrs last night. oh and get a friend to help, its 10x harder by yourself. Also get a spreader tool.. Schwaben i think but spread that knuckle a little bit, and spritz it with wd40 or pb...

3.\ Do not, when finishing one side, re-connect the sway bar link, otherwise you'll be fighting the otherside...

4,\ Cos of the above, get both wheels off the ground and everything undone, so you're ready to go.

5.\ Don't try and torque the 18mm strut nut when you're holding it all. Do that at the end, when the wheels are back on the ground. No wrestling the strut while its spins as you try and torque it.

6.\ Don't stress all too much about getting those pips in at the rear, i think i spent maybe 45min trying to line them up. In the end i just went with it.... I don't think they're exactly in, and the car doesn't creak or make any weird suspension noises whatsoever.

Honestly i think that's about it. Probably easier than VW's but at the end of the day i just used more or less the same technique and it all worked out.. The biggest help was having a friend. A couple of trolley jacks and that piece of wood to help lift the strut out.

I'll get some proper pics in this weekend.. But she's lookin' good.

Oh and i got a frickin nail in my tire.. The last part of the install, was putting the rear tire back on, and i noticed a frickin screw stuck in there... i think its repairable... i hope so !

 

[Integra23]

OK got it done tonight !!! it went soooooooooooo much better. Had a friend help me... I'm going to give some tips.

1.\ Don't bother with the spring compressor, its absolutely not needed. Maybe if you're doing it by yourself, but with two of you, one of you push down on the spring and the other zip the strut nut down. But when taking apart the stock springs, it will not shoot out..

2.\ BIG ONE, if working off the ground !! Get yourselves a piece of wood 2x4 23" and use your trolley jack to lift the spring out of the knuckle.. Yeah you're still going to have to wrestle a little, but we had it out in less than 2min. No pry bars pressing and chewing up the aluminum Compared to my 2hrs last night. oh and get a friend to help, its 10x harder by yourself. Also get a spreader tool.. Schwaben i think but spread that knuckle a little bit, and spritz it with wd40 or pb...

3.\ Do not, when finishing one side, re-connect the sway bar link, otherwise you'll be fighting the otherside...

4,\ Cos of the above, get both wheels off the ground and everything undone, so you're ready to go.

5.\ Don't try and torque the 18mm strut nut when you're holding it all. Do that at the end, when the wheels are back on the ground. No wrestling the strut while its spins as you try and torque it.

6.\ Don't stress all too much about getting those pips in at the rear, i think i spent maybe 45min trying to line them up. In the end i just went with it.... I don't think they're exactly in, and the car doesn't creak or make any weird suspension noises whatsoever.

Honestly i think that's about it. Probably easier than VW's but at the end of the day i just used more or less the same technique and it all worked out.. The biggest help was having a friend. A couple of trolley jacks and that piece of wood to help lift the strut out.

I'll get some proper pics in this weekend.. But she's lookin' good.

Oh and i got a frickin nail in my tire.. The last part of the install, was putting the rear tire back on, and i noticed a frickin screw stuck in there... i think its repairable... i hope so !

Funny you mentioned not needing the spring compressor. I put FK8 front springs on my Aspec. Now the Aspec spring you need the compressor for removal. But installation of the FK8 springs you don't since they sit below the thread area when installed.

 

[StingertimeNC]

OK got it done tonight !!! it went soooooooooooo much better. Had a friend help me... I'm going to give some tips.

1.\ Don't bother with the spring compressor, its absolutely not needed. Maybe if you're doing it by yourself, but with two of you, one of you push down on the spring and the other zip the strut nut down. But when taking apart the stock springs, it will not shoot out..

2.\ BIG ONE, if working off the ground !! Get yourselves a piece of wood 2x4 23" and use your trolley jack to lift the spring out of the knuckle.. Yeah you're still going to have to wrestle a little, but we had it out in less than 2min. No pry bars pressing and chewing up the aluminum Compared to my 2hrs last night. oh and get a friend to help, its 10x harder by yourself. Also get a spreader tool.. Schwaben i think but spread that knuckle a little bit, and spritz it with wd40 or pb...

3.\ Do not, when finishing one side, re-connect the sway bar link, otherwise you'll be fighting the otherside...

4,\ Cos of the above, get both wheels off the ground and everything undone, so you're ready to go.

5.\ Don't try and torque the 18mm strut nut when you're holding it all. Do that at the end, when the wheels are back on the ground. No wrestling the strut while its spins as you try and torque it.

6.\ Don't stress all too much about getting those pips in at the rear, i think i spent maybe 45min trying to line them up. In the end i just went with it.... I don't think they're exactly in, and the car doesn't creak or make any weird suspension noises whatsoever.

Honestly i think that's about it. Probably easier than VW's but at the end of the day i just used more or less the same technique and it all worked out.. The biggest help was having a friend. A couple of trolley jacks and that piece of wood to help lift the strut out.

I'll get some proper pics in this weekend.. But she's lookin' good.

Oh and i got a frickin nail in my tire.. The last part of the install, was putting the rear tire back on, and i noticed a frickin screw stuck in there... i think its repairable... i hope so !

Awesome news! Love it when this job is done. Car looks tight when you close that gap up. Pics??

 

[IntegraSpeed]

Excuse the shite quality photo's. it was late last night and i only used my iphone

 

[StingertimeNC]

Yes, there you go!

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