Integra23
Senior Member
I have the ramps that are 10" tall. Even to get my car on the ramp,stock suspension, i had to get their low profile extenders.Good point. I will try this weekend and report to this group.
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I have the ramps that are 10" tall. Even to get my car on the ramp,stock suspension, i had to get their low profile extenders.Good point. I will try this weekend and report to this group.
So 72" is the one I'd need to go with in order to clear the bumper?This is just my experience so please anyone chime in. I looked at ramps from Amazon but none were wide enough and had the low clearance for the ITS. The only one that would work is Race Ramps and also using their extenders since I lowered the ITS. While they are more expensive, I thought the quality is excellent. But they are bulky so need space to store them. I am also very cautious when using them and never got the car to the highest point.
So I used their online calculators and bought the RR-XT-2 67". But I did not take into account the plastic ledge on the front of the car (you cannot see it unless you look down). So the ramps did not work unless I bought the extenders, which is the RR-EX-14. So I spent more money than I needed. I would use the calculators but make sure you account for that ledge.So 72" is the one I'd need to go with in order to clear the bumper?
Like @ckone2030 mentioned. The front end lower lip will drag on factory suspension. You will need the extenders with the 67" set. I have the first gen where it's a single piece. It does make oil changes a breeze.So 72" is the one I'd need to go with in order to clear the bumper?
thanks guys. so 67" with extenders seem to be the best bet. I'm expecting to lower the car a smidge at some point, not to mention maybe a lip too so it's only bound to get worse.Like @ckone2030 mentioned. The front end lower lip will drag on factory suspension. You will need the extenders with the 67" set. I have the first gen where it's a single piece. It does make oil changes a breeze.
I just drive the front end on the ramps ans place wheel chocks on the rear tires. The oil drain plug faces the rear of the vehicle so the angle helps.thanks guys. so 67" with extenders seem to be the best bet. I'm expecting to lower the car a smidge at some point, not to mention maybe a lip too so it's only bound to get worse.
Since you mentioned oil changes, do you do them with the front raised and the rears on the floor? In the past, I'd always done the jack dance to get the front back down because I felt like it wouldn't drain all the way if the front was raised.
Same here. Seems the oil drain faster when on the incline with the ramps. Very easy and straightforward to do. The only gripe I have is the dipstick is so hard to check with new fresh oil. Other than that it is a breeze.I just drive the front end on the ramps ans place wheel chocks on the rear tires. The oil drain plug faces the rear of the vehicle so the angle helps.
link?i broke down and bought the quickjack 5000TLX bundle. i didn't want to do the song and dance with ramps and jacks, but honestly the quickjacks are a huge pain to use. they're a pain to set up for the first time. they are fucking HEAVY so moving them around and getting them in position sucks, and you have to keep getting down to the ground to see if the blocks are lining up with the pinch welds as you go to raise them.
Thanks those are nice.
they're nice but as i mentioned they are a huge pain in the ass to set up, move around, and use. once the car is up in the air they're pretty great but everything else before that sucks.Thanks those are nice.
Dang, I will just stick with my 5 minute setup that was less than $250 total for ramps, jack and jack stands.they're nice but as i mentioned they are a huge pain in the ass to set up, move around, and use. once the car is up in the air they're pretty great but everything else before that sucks.
Was considering these as well but I was worried they'd be a hassle for simple maintenance items like oil changes etc. Your experience seems to be that.they're nice but as i mentioned they are a huge pain in the ass to set up, move around, and use. once the car is up in the air they're pretty great but everything else before that sucks.
it may be in the full service manual online (paid access), but what/where are the front center and rear center jack points on the ITS (not jacking from the pinch welds as that would not allow subsequent placement of jack stands)? i'm just short of 1200 miles in 7 months and hoping to do a break in oil change soon...So, you need the car high enough to work under it, but you bought an ITS and now you're too Po' for a quick jack thingy or don't have access to a nice lift. (and frankly don't trust any shop in the area)
Well, Harbor freight has you covered with some cheap ramps and jacks stands..
I know there was some discussion about jack points on the car so just listing what I did in 5 minutes to get the car high enough to do the downpipe, front pipe and RRM..
1st. up on ramps. (I use some old boards to clear the bottom of bumper)
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2nd. jack rear and put on jack stands near lowest setting.
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3rd. I use some cut 2x12's and give that jack the lift it needs. this will bring the rear above the front on the ramps.
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4th. I use the same 2x12's and now lift the front.
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5th. Take out the ramps, Prop it on the front jack stands and then put the ramps back but backwards.
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now you have plenty of clearance