Rear brake pads need changed 3k miles

[Car00071]

Hey all,

I am at 42000 miles and have been through 3 stock sets of pads (First set was 20k, second set 10k, third set 7k.) and am currently on my 4th set of pads which are EBC yellows.

Installed these hoping to get some more life out of my highway cruiser / backroad warrior. Backroads involve doing pedal dance and turning VSA off. I have had these EBC yellows installed for 3000 miles and they have worn down to about 2 mm and need changed. VSA clearly is not the cause as it is off when doing backroads which is when the majority of rear brake wear takes place.

Passenger rear caliper has been replaced due to installation error by dealership. Driver side caliper has been ordered and will be replaced shortly due to boot getting torn.

Any ideas? Pads seem to be dragging and intermittently squeal when going highway speeds.

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[Victorofhavoc]

Do you engage your parking brake after driving/braking hard or do you cool them off first?

 

[Car00071]

Do you engage your parking brake after driving/braking hard or do you cool them off first?

Cool them off and leave the car in gear.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Cool them off and leave the car in gear.

That's the right move.

On track with vsa off i was seeing fairly low temps in rear. Street driving i bet they stay even cooler. Vsa on the temps were significantly hotter. Difference was 400F vs 270F in paddock, add 200F or so when on track. The rears just don't get hot due to all the weight at the front and a fairly stiff dampening in rear on corner out.

Have you tried any other pads besides ebc and oem?

 

[Car00071]

That's the right move.

On track with vsa off i was seeing fairly low temps in rear. Street driving i bet they stay even cooler. Vsa on the temps were significantly hotter. Difference was 400F vs 270F in paddock, add 200F or so when on track. The rears just don't get hot due to all the weight at the front and a fairly stiff dampening in rear on corner out.

Have you tried any other pads besides ebc and oem?

Unfortunately not, only have tried EBC yellow and OEM. I believe my pads may be sticking somehow.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Unfortunately not, only have tried EBC yellow and OEM. I believe my pads may be sticking somehow.

Are you seeing impressions of your pads left behind?

 

[Car00071]

Are you seeing impressions of your pads left behind?

I don't believe so

 

[Victorofhavoc]

So what are you thinking? The epb isn't fully disengaging so you're getting drag? Usually with pads "sticking" I see an outline of the pad left behind, but that's usually because of the pad bonding agent getting too hot and gluing itself to the rotor.

Have you checked temps after driving? (ir temp gun is ideal here).

 

[ABPDE5]

The significant change in mileage per pad (20k > 10k > 7k) on the OEMs suggests something has changed. Is the EPB calibration accurate?

 

[akoza]

Wear aside, how does the brake dust with the EBC Yellows compare to OEM pads?

 

[Brooski1]

Unfortunately not, only have tried EBC yellow and OEM. I believe my pads may be sticking somehow.

If the calipers are sticking that much your brake disks should be very hot to the point that you feel it in the rear wheels after a drive. Try putting your hand on either rear wheels after a drive or buy one of those cheap infrared scanners and check the disk temp. I've done a lot of track days with stability control on and off. With it on you can smell and feel the effect it has on your rears as it tries to keep your car pointed in the right direction.

 

[RMA]

No wonder why I had to replace my rear pads so quickly on my 24 ITS (at 11700 miles last week). I don’t let the brakes cool down when sitting at idle & I always engage the EPB then leave the car in 2nd gear when parked. It’s a daily car for me, no track time whatsoever. I will try this from here on in, if I have the patience to sit in the car an extra 2 minutes lol

 

[Victorofhavoc]

No wonder why I had to replace my rear pads so quickly on my 24 ITS (at 11700 miles last week). I don’t let the brakes cool down when sitting at idle & I always engage the EPB then leave the car in 2nd gear when parked. It’s a daily car for me, no track time whatsoever. I will try this from here on in, if I have the patience to sit in the car an extra 2 minutes lol

Stoplight racers are the hardest on brakes. On track, we usually take a full lap or half lap for cool down where you don't touch the brakes at all, you just coast around corners until you get to paddock and then leave the car in gear with no parking brake. A few mins later you move the car a couple feet to move the pad.

This isn't necessary on the street, but if you drive it hard or stop hard in stop and go traffic, its better for the brakes to get a bit of cool down time through slow driving and easy braking before parking.

In general, these cars seem to have unusually high rear wear and it's not just vsa. I would expect rears of this size to typically have a life of 50-80k mi, so 10-20k is a far cry from "normal" wear for any car. I personally wonder if the epb is maybe just too aggressive from factory, but who knows.

 

[Car00071]

So what are you thinking? The epb isn't fully disengaging so you're getting drag? Usually with pads "sticking" I see an outline of the pad left behind, but that's usually because of the pad bonding agent getting too hot and gluing itself to the rotor.

Have you checked temps after driving? (ir temp gun is ideal here).

I think this can be a good idea, I have noticed the rear rotors have a ton of pad transfer and the pad transfer looks hot. Also with any braking on back roads the rear rotors gets so hot that it feels “warped”. I can also smell the rear brakes after stopping and the rear brakes are consistently squealing off the brake pedal. They stopped squealing now but due to wearing pad down so much.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I think this can be a good idea, I have noticed the rear rotors have a ton of pad transfer and the pad transfer looks hot. Also with any braking on back roads the rear rotors gets so hot that it feels “warped”. I can also smell the rear brakes after stopping and the rear brakes are consistently squealing off the brake pedal. They stopped squealing now but due to wearing pad down so much.

That sounds way hotter than I could even get the rears on track with very hard and very late braking. Something sounds off in your scenario... Can you drive along normally for 5 miles and hit a bit of stop and go, then measure your rotor temps each side? They shouldn't be hot. Maybe 210F tops, even with vsa on. If they're pushing 350+ there are dragging issues.

EBC yellows in general i don't like. I haven't used an ebc pad I'd write anything positive about honestly, with a couple of their race pads as the only exceptions. The yellows like a moderate temp range, but they give up noise, dust, and wear for decent bite and low cost. Comparatively, the ferodo ds2500 and Porterfield r4 are quieter, more bitey when hot, and wear better, but even more dusty and more expensive. For street driving I'd honestly recommend some form of nicer ceramic compound, like the brembo or akebono street stuff, or even something like the carbotech or gloc fleet or autox pads. Their autox pads are the ebc yellow equivalents but they tend to be more rotor and life friendly.

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