Audio79
Senior Member
PicturesDrove the new daily home in a down pour about 183 miles..
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PicturesDrove the new daily home in a down pour about 183 miles..
Can never go wrong with black. Wash and maintain regularly and the black stays great on a great lookin carPPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
Since you're already doing PPF, consider Xpel Stealth. It's expensive but totally changes the look of the car while also protecting the paint. It looks good on almost any color but black is arguably the most benefit.PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
I said I was done with black cars too…til I saw the black ITS in person haha.PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
I used Anti-Seize on mine, I don't think it's required but figured it wouldn't hurt. As a note, I didn't use 7, I only used 2. I replaced the 2 OEM studs with TI, reused the 2 bolts, and the 3 studs on the other side of the DP are replaced with bolts with the new DP. It probably doesn't hurt to swap everything over, but didn't seem worth the effort for me since I haven't seen any reported issues with the bolts sheering, just the studs.Did any of you do the downpipe with titanium studs? I have 7 of them & curious if I should probably add anti seize to the threads? I've never messed with titanium before so maybe their properties don't require it?
Awesome, thanks! Good point on the stud vs. bolts - I didn't even think about that, just added the "7" kit when checking out. I have all the bolts off minus the 3 in the rear of the front pipe. I'll probably do the same as you mentioned & if/when I ever upgrade the turbo, I'll use the titanium studs there as well. I soaked mine on Kroil last night & intended to let them sit overnight but said ah screw it & took them all off. But we usually keep PB & WD in the shop drawer as well. I've used PB the most. Dad in law used to be a machinist & swears by the Kroil.I used Anti-Seize on mine, I don't think it's required but figured it wouldn't hurt. As a note, I didn't use 7, I only used 2. I replaced the 2 OEM studs with TI, reused the 2 bolts, and the 3 studs on the other side of the DP are replaced with bolts with the new DP. It probably doesn't hurt to swap everything over, but didn't seem worth the effort for me since I haven't seen any reported issues with the bolts sheering, just the studs.
I soaked mine overnight with PB Blaster and was surprised how easy it all came apart, granted my car had like 700 miles on it
Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.Awesome, thanks! Good point on the stud vs. bolts - I didn't even think about that, just added the "7" kit when checking out. I have all the bolts off minus the 3 in the rear of the front pipe. I'll probably do the same as you mentioned & if/when I ever upgrade the turbo, I'll use the titanium studs there as well. I soaked mine on Kroil last night & intended to let them sit overnight but said ah screw it & took them all off. But we usually keep PB & WD in the shop drawer as well. I've used PB the most. Dad in law used to be a machinist & swears by the Kroil.
Man, I haven't had to crawl under a car in SO long since I've had Jeeps & trucks for so long. Never had to get under the TA & the fuel pump for the GTP had access from the trunk. Guess I have to take the full plastic under shield out to get the front pipe out. I was trying to work around it at first. I know I can pry the pipe off the exhaust hanger too, but I sure hope I don't screw up the bushing.
Ahh I see, very nice! I didn't know hanger remover was a thing & just saw someone use a pry bar on it. I did notice the bolt to hold it in place at lunch today so maybe I'll just go that route - sounds easier & I won't have to purchase another tool. I'm so strapped for time already that I've just been working in segments a little each day while the ecu is shipped out to Derek Robinson.Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.
I replaced all 4 with rampage titanium studs. Didn't want to risk having the standard bolt getting stuck later onYeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.