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crepr12

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PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
 

Azkyrie6

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PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
Can never go wrong with black. Wash and maintain regularly and the black stays great on a great lookin car
 

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optronix

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PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
Since you're already doing PPF, consider Xpel Stealth. It's expensive but totally changes the look of the car while also protecting the paint. It looks good on almost any color but black is arguably the most benefit.
 

Yato

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PPF and ceramic coating next...it will be parked until that gets done...I was done with black cars after my C6 Vette....Not...Now two black Type S...Nuts like I dont have enough to do..smmfh
I said I was done with black cars too…til I saw the black ITS in person haha.

then I also proceeded to spend $1,000 in detailing equipment to make sure I keep it looking good.
 

bpebler

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Did any of you do the downpipe with titanium studs? I have 7 of them & curious if I should probably add anti seize to the threads? I've never messed with titanium before so maybe their properties don't require it?
 

ZeroGSR

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Did any of you do the downpipe with titanium studs? I have 7 of them & curious if I should probably add anti seize to the threads? I've never messed with titanium before so maybe their properties don't require it?
I used Anti-Seize on mine, I don't think it's required but figured it wouldn't hurt. As a note, I didn't use 7, I only used 2. I replaced the 2 OEM studs with TI, reused the 2 bolts, and the 3 studs on the other side of the DP are replaced with bolts with the new DP. It probably doesn't hurt to swap everything over, but didn't seem worth the effort for me since I haven't seen any reported issues with the bolts sheering, just the studs.

I soaked mine overnight with PB Blaster and was surprised how easy it all came apart, granted my car had like 700 miles on it :)
 

bpebler

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I used Anti-Seize on mine, I don't think it's required but figured it wouldn't hurt. As a note, I didn't use 7, I only used 2. I replaced the 2 OEM studs with TI, reused the 2 bolts, and the 3 studs on the other side of the DP are replaced with bolts with the new DP. It probably doesn't hurt to swap everything over, but didn't seem worth the effort for me since I haven't seen any reported issues with the bolts sheering, just the studs.

I soaked mine overnight with PB Blaster and was surprised how easy it all came apart, granted my car had like 700 miles on it :)
Awesome, thanks! Good point on the stud vs. bolts - I didn't even think about that, just added the "7" kit when checking out. I have all the bolts off minus the 3 in the rear of the front pipe. I'll probably do the same as you mentioned & if/when I ever upgrade the turbo, I'll use the titanium studs there as well. I soaked mine on Kroil last night & intended to let them sit overnight but said ah screw it & took them all off. But we usually keep PB & WD in the shop drawer as well. I've used PB the most. Dad in law used to be a machinist & swears by the Kroil.

Man, I haven't had to crawl under a car in SO long since I've had Jeeps & trucks for so long. Never had to get under the TA & the fuel pump for the GTP had access from the trunk. 😄 Guess I have to take the full plastic under shield out to get the front pipe out. I was trying to work around it at first. I know I can pry the pipe off the exhaust hanger too, but I sure hope I don't screw up the bushing.
 

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ZeroGSR

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Awesome, thanks! Good point on the stud vs. bolts - I didn't even think about that, just added the "7" kit when checking out. I have all the bolts off minus the 3 in the rear of the front pipe. I'll probably do the same as you mentioned & if/when I ever upgrade the turbo, I'll use the titanium studs there as well. I soaked mine on Kroil last night & intended to let them sit overnight but said ah screw it & took them all off. But we usually keep PB & WD in the shop drawer as well. I've used PB the most. Dad in law used to be a machinist & swears by the Kroil.

Man, I haven't had to crawl under a car in SO long since I've had Jeeps & trucks for so long. Never had to get under the TA & the fuel pump for the GTP had access from the trunk. 😄 Guess I have to take the full plastic under shield out to get the front pipe out. I was trying to work around it at first. I know I can pry the pipe off the exhaust hanger too, but I sure hope I don't screw up the bushing.
Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.
 

bpebler

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Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.
Ahh I see, very nice! I didn't know hanger remover was a thing & just saw someone use a pry bar on it. I did notice the bolt to hold it in place at lunch today so maybe I'll just go that route - sounds easier & I won't have to purchase another tool. I'm so strapped for time already that I've just been working in segments a little each day while the ecu is shipped out to Derek Robinson.
 

nomarkup

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Installed the Sprint Booster on my DE5. On race mode, acceleration is instantaneous throughout the rpm band. I’m always blown away when I accelerate hard and wonder why the DE5 did not come like this out of the box from the factory. The car also feels like it pulls so much harder since the throttle body opens a lot faster on the “Race” setting. A lot of people don’t believe in it, but all I could say is I swear by it! I have to try it for myself to see if the Sprint Booster was all marketing BS. Call it snake oil, but to me the Sprint Booster is legit!

Anyways, I already have a Hondata on my desk. Just waiting for the DP and FP to arrive so I can install them and tune it on the same day.

I know I have to take the Sprint Booster out once I have installed the DP, FP, and tune the DE5 since a few tuners have mentioned that the tune “might” conflict with the Sprint Booster. I would actually feel better if the word “might” was changed to “will”. I’m just curious, has anyone or any tuner proven this? I actually want to hear from a tuner that actually installed a DP, FP, etc and did a tune with a car that also runs the Sprint Booster. Or not even with a DP or FP. I just need a a solid/proven answer if the Sprint Booster will be compatible with just a tune. If there’s concrete evidence that there’s compatibility issues, then it’s justified. For now, it’s all speculation…
 
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Integra23

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Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.
I replaced all 4 with rampage titanium studs. Didn't want to risk having the standard bolt getting stuck later on
 

Integra23

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