CMC Damper Delete

[koatic]

I have ordered the Sirimoto N1 CMC damper delete but I have seen some posts about also removing the slave damper valve from the slave cylinder as well.
Just curious if I will be able to feel clutch engagement better with just the CMC or if I should do both. I am not keen on taking slave cylinder apart.
link to sirimoto damper delete.
SiriMoto N1 Clutch Master Cylinder CMC Damper Delete / Bypass Kit for 2024 Acura Integra Hatchback Type S

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[Integra23]

The CDV removal seems to be the most performed mod. I havent seen too many that did the CMC bypass. I have the unfortunate 2nd gear grind issue which seems better after further clutch pedal adjustments. I look forward to reading your take on these other clutch mods.

 

[Tw1stedlog1k]

I'll let you know by next Friday. I have the parts (modified slave cylinder, CMC bypass, steel braided clutch line) sitting. Just haven't had a chance to install.

 

[wontondon]

I installed the Sirimoto a couple months ago alongside rigid collars and a motor mount.

I do notice better "communication" with the clutch when engaging a gear. Would love to do the Slave cylinder valve delete one day - but perhaps on a new unit prior to installing into the vehicle.

 

[edido]

I plan to install Sirimoto N1 CMC bypass, steel braided clutch line, Acuity shifter cable busing and change the transmission fluid to ACDelco 10-4014 in the next 2-3 weeks. Will report my experience then. I also plan to install a short shifter (Hybrid Racing), but I will do it as phase two so I can isolate the impact.

In the meantime, I will follow this thread about CDV removal. There was some post advising to order a new slave cylinder to modify and swap. I think it's a great tip.

 

[bpebler]

Watching to see what the best but least invasive method is

 

[SocalDE5]

Watching to see what the best but least invasive method is

https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-modified-fk8-slave-cylinder-cvd-delete


Just buy 1 with it already removed.

 

[PrecordFK7]

I have the same setup waiting to be installed. Bought a FL5 slave cylinder and did the delay valve delete and just got the Sirimoto damper delete yesterday. Waiting on a Spoon clutch line to do everything together. Will do the clutch along with HEL/Dream stainless brake lines, Dixcel brake pads, Wunderladen rear brass bushings all at the same time using Project Mu G-four fluid. You'll probably be able to give feedback first as I'm told my Spoon clutch line is another month to two before shipping.

 

[Tw1stedlog1k]

Alrighty I'm chiming in with my initial (but limited) impressions after installing the modified slave cylinder, Sirimoto steel braided clutch line, and Sirimoto CMC damper bypass. Keep in mind my impressions are my own so YMMV.

Immediately noticeable is that the clutch actuation has a more direct effect on clutch engagement (expected). We're not talking night and day difference but noticeable enough and the bite point is easier to find. Stiffness and pedal feel is the same as stock; no change (expected).

Take off and the 1->2 shift is easier to nail smoothly but I'm hesitant to really bang the gears on that shift because I have a strong *feeling* it'll grind. My past experiences with Honda 6 speeds has left me mentally scarred with the 1->2 grind, just once was enough to keep me from attempting hard shifts ever again. It's been almost 2 decades and I still haven't gotten over it. Still have to finesse the 1->2 depending on how quickly I'm accelerating but I can get off the clutch a little quicker after the shift and the momentum carries through more smoothly.

I wouldn't say it's eliminated but the sensation of slip is noticeably reduced during brisk acceleration after upshifts. Heel-toe and auto rev-matching has gotten even more satisfying also because that delay between releasing the clutch and it actually engaging is significantly reduced. That clutch dump sensation after the rev-match is not as apparent.

I'm going to need more seat time to really confirm these findings. In the meantime, should you do these mods? If you're not noticing any of the "before" issues I have above in your day-to-day then I would say no, not worth considering. If you're sensitive to these things like I am then absolutely, it's worth the price of admission to return some semblance of analog controls back to a modern car.

I feel like the modern manual car is much more forgiving than pre-2000's ish cars. Which is also a downside because all the driving assistance engineered into making the car easy for anyone to drive also makes it difficult for more seasoned drivers. I've learned to anticipate and compensate for the situation ahead but with modern cars it feels like the car is trying to compensate for me. Everything now has to be done slightly slower or slightly sloppier to be able to drive as smoothly as before. It's nice when you're tired after a long day of traffic but there are times when you want to rip through gears at will and have the car respond in kind.

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