Issue with brakes on brand new Integra A Spec Tech

[Dabills80]

Hi all,

I bought a brand new 2024 Integra A Spec Tech CVT three weeks ago and have been having issues with the brakes. A week after I bought it, I took it in to get serviced because I was hearing a loud scraping noise when braking. The dealership replaced the brake pads and rotors. A week later, I took it back to the dealership because I've been hearing a different, rubbing-type noise when braking, especially at low speed and in reverse. The dealership said it was just part of the break in process for new brakes and would ago away. Nearly 100 miles on the car later, I still have the noise.

Just wanted to know if anyone else has had similar issues. I assume I need to take it back in despite concerns that the service department will dismiss the issue as part of the break in process. I love the car but wish the first 600 miles would have gone smoother.

Sponsored

 

[Integra23]

Some with the Type S have seen rocks stuck between the heat shield and rotor. This could be an issue with yours as well.

My main issue with the Aspec i had was pulsing when braking after 10k miles. It was either warped rotors or brake pad build up on the rotor. If i had kept the Aspec i would have gotten a BBK.

 

[jayy_swish]

Most brake pad manufactures say it takes about 200-600 miles before “breaking in”. Varies really, if it’s the pads or rotor you would hear a like squeal/shriek. A rubbing noise doesn’t sound like brakes to me, but then again can’t hear what you’re hearing over the internet lol.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

Some with the Type S have seen rocks stuck between the heat shield and rotor. This could be an issue with yours as well.

My main issue with the Aspec i had was pulsing when braking after 10k miles. It was either warped rotors or brake pad build up on the rotor. If i had kept the Aspec i would have gotten a BBK.

I am at nearly 40k on my ASpec and have slight pulsing and highway speed breaking say on off-ramps etc. I have the cvt but use the paddles to engine brake and am a driver who uses brakes sparingly (keep good follow-distances and anticipating traffic conditions)

Brakes come back great at inspection and no apparent warping or debris/build-up so I’m at a loss for thought. Once the pads wear down and need replacing, I’m just going with drilled/slotted rotors and some premium pads I think

 

[Integra23]

I am at nearly 40k on my ASpec and have slight pulsing and highway speed breaking say on off-ramps etc. I have the cvt but use the paddles to engine brake and am a driver who uses brakes sparingly (keep good follow-distances and anticipating traffic conditions)

Brakes come back great at inspection and no apparent warping or debris/build-up so I’m at a loss for thought. Once the pads wear down and need replacing, I’m just going with drilled/slotted rotors and some premium pads I think

The brembos i have now are amazing. Closing in on 20k miles and the thing will stop on a dime without issue. All cars ahould come with 4 piston calibers.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

The brembos i have now are amazing. Closing in on 20k miles and the thing will stop on a dime without issue. All cars ahould come with 4 piston calibers.

Probably overkill for the 1.5 but also probably so nice.
Maybe I do the genesis brembo swap to match

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I am at nearly 40k on my ASpec and have slight pulsing and highway speed breaking say on off-ramps etc. I have the cvt but use the paddles to engine brake and am a driver who uses brakes sparingly (keep good follow-distances and anticipating traffic conditions)

Brakes come back great at inspection and no apparent warping or debris/build-up so I’m at a loss for thought. Once the pads wear down and need replacing, I’m just going with drilled/slotted rotors and some premium pads I think

I wouldn't bother with drilled or slotted rotors. Drilled just crack more frequently. Slotted only benefit in sopping wet weather. Otherwise holes and slots will eat your pads faster and make the bed in process more of a pain.

@op, brake pad break in is typically a few hundred miles, but can go on as long as 1000mi for more ceramic based pads. You can accelerate the bed in process or "re-bed" pads (that have overheated and smeared pad bonding material onto the rotor) by taking some hard slow downs (not full stops) from 70mph down to 5-10mph about 8 to 10 times... Then highway drive for 5 mins to get some airflow to cool them down and bring it on home to cool completely without using the parking brake.

Brakes shudder for a few different reasons.

Pad glaze - easy to fix by rebedding
Overheated or old fluid - easy fix, bubbles are the culprit
Warped rotor - extremely unlikely in this century, especially with any brake pads made after 1990, can be fixed by a shop with a lathe or just replace the rotor
Failed caliper seals - will cause pad glaze and overheated/contaminated fluid first, easy fix with a rebuild kit
Locked up sliding pins - not an issue on fixed calipers, definitely occurs on floating calipers and easy to pull and grease up. Will cause pad glaze and uneven wear first
Uneven pad wear - least common and more prevalent on fixed calipers. Usually the judder occurs on very light pad pressure only and will often lead to pad glaze or record disc like rotors first before noticing it

If it's not one of those, could be the abs system or something very wrong internally with the hard lines or fluid delivery system.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

I wouldn't bother with drilled or slotted rotors. Drilled just crack more frequently. Slotted only benefit in sopping wet weather. Otherwise holes and slots will eat your pads faster and make the bed in process more of a pain.

@op, brake pad break in is typically a few hundred miles, but can go on as long as 1000mi for more ceramic based pads. You can accelerate the bed in process or "re-bed" pads (that have overheated and smeared pad bonding material onto the rotor) by taking some hard slow downs (not full stops) from 70mph down to 5-10mph about 8 to 10 times... Then highway drive for 5 mins to get some airflow to cool them down and bring it on home to cool completely without using the parking brake.

Brakes shudder for a few different reasons.

Pad glaze - easy to fix by rebedding
Overheated or old fluid - easy fix, bubbles are the culprit
Warped rotor - extremely unlikely in this century, especially with any brake pads made after 1990, can be fixed by a shop with a lathe or just replace the rotor
Failed caliper seals - will cause pad glaze and overheated/contaminated fluid first, easy fix with a rebuild kit
Locked up sliding pins - not an issue on fixed calipers, definitely occurs on floating calipers and easy to pull and grease up. Will cause pad glaze and uneven wear first
Uneven pad wear - least common and more prevalent on fixed calipers. Usually the judder occurs on very light pad pressure only and will often lead to pad glaze or record disc like rotors first before noticing it

If it's not one of those, could be the abs system or something very wrong internally with the hard lines or fluid delivery system.

Oh that is good to know! I don’t know much about the brake system; just thought the slots and holes were for better heat dispersion. I didn’t think of those side effects!

 

[Mr. LargeCoffee]

Hi all,

I bought a brand new 2024 Integra A Spec Tech CVT three weeks ago and have been having issues with the brakes. A week after I bought it, I took it in to get serviced because I was hearing a loud scraping noise when braking. The dealership replaced the brake pads and rotors. A week later, I took it back to the dealership because I've been hearing a different, rubbing-type noise when braking, especially at low speed and in reverse. The dealership said it was just part of the break in process for new brakes and would ago away. Nearly 100 miles on the car later, I still have the noise.

Just wanted to know if anyone else has had similar issues. I assume I need to take it back in despite concerns that the service department will dismiss the issue as part of the break in process. I love the car but wish the first 600 miles would have gone smoother.

I only have 1200 miles on my A Spec Tech CVT and have had no issues with the brakes. Even during break in there shouldn’t be any noises. It was lazy of the dealer/tech to just replace the pads and rotors and not dig into what is making the noise. If it still making a noise, albeit different, then they did not do the job properly or some other problem exists that they didn’t catch the first time.

I’d say take it to another dealer, but unfortunately Acura dealers are few and far between (the next nearest on to me is 80 miles away). If you know a good independent mechanic I’d take it to them for a diagnostic before going back to the dealer. Yes, it will cost you, but at least you may get to the bottom of what the problem is.

 

[Dabills80]

Thanks all. I went back and looked at the invoice from my initial visit to the dealer, and it only mentions that they replaced the brake pads and rotor on one wheel (because of rust). On my second visit they claimed they replaced the brake pads and rotors on all wheels. I'll take it to the dealer next week and if they aren't helpful I'll take it a local mechanic to get a second opinion.

 

[Dabills80]

Another update and also reupping this thread in case anyone has had a similar experience or knows a solution.

After having both of my rear brake pads and rotors replaced, I'm still hearing the grinding noise. The service technician told me that if I still have the issue, it's something I might have to live with. He mentioned that they drove two of their loaners and heard the same noise. I had the impression he's sick of my sh*t but I've been polite throughout.

I just find it hard to believe that nothing can be done. I'll try going to another dealer that's 45 minutes away and if that doesn't work, I'll pay to have a local mechanic took a look.

Sponsored