Jester’s Tuning thread

[JesterTuned]

I will be going on a trip for a week starting next Monday. So all tuning sessions will be put on hold until I return. If you want to tune your best bet would be to reach out before Monday, If not it will have to wait at least a week for all tuning requests.

Thank you all again for your support!

-Jester

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[StingertimeNC]

TLDR: Jestertuned is the man!!


Hey gang, hate to keep heaping the praise on jestertuned, but I just want you all to be aware of what this man will do for you.

Just as I arrived at the track for Tech check, (the night before the two day event,) I got a P0410 code, and lost the crackles and pops. No dash lights, etc., just no crackles and pops. Reset that code with the Hondata app. Crackles and pops back immediately. Talked with Jestertuned and he checked it out, and said no worries, keep driving and let him know what's happening once I'm out on track. (looks like the Takeda aFE intake may be to blame)

Next day, (Day 1 at track,) code came back during both the first and second sessions. Just kept resetting, and took a Datalog during the third session, emailed to Jester Tune before dinner, by the time I got to the rental house, a new flash tune was waiting for me. Loaded that evening, prior to day 2 of the track.

Day 2 was when it got worse but JesterTune helped on the spot.

Lost crackles and pops and rev match. Reset code with Hondata App and Rev match was back, bot lost crackles and pops again the next session out. Jestertuned had me do a Datalog for an entire track session, emailed the log, and he sent me a new tune to flash within 30 minutes. Flashed right on the spot, went out for the next session and car was perfect. Datalogged the session after that, sent it to him when I got home last night, and he sent me another revision this morning. I've had 5 or 6 revisions all for no additional cost. He's adjusted tunes multiple times, before, during and now after track days, to optimize things.

This dude always answers his phone and takes care of his customers!

Honestly, having the Hondata flashpro to check and reset codes, and quickly flash tune updates is just amazing, and Jestertuned just kicks the whole experience up a notch.

Thanks man! you saved the day.

 

[JesterTuned]

TLDR: Jestertuned is the man!!


Hey gang, hate to keep heaping the praise on jestertuned, but I just want you all to be aware of what this man will do for you.

Just as I arrived at the track for Tech check, (the night before the two day event,) I got a P0410 code, and lost the crackles and pops. No dash lights, etc., just no crackles and pops. Reset that code with the Hondata app. Crackles and pops back immediately. Talked with Jestertuned and he checked it out, and said no worries, keep driving and let him know what's happening once I'm out on track. (looks like the Takeda aFE intake may be to blame)

Next day, (Day 1 at track,) code came back during both the first and second sessions. Just kept resetting, and took a Datalog during the third session, emailed to Jester Tune before dinner, by the time I got to the rental house, a new flash tune was waiting for me. Loaded that evening, prior to day 2 of the track.

Day 2 was when it got worse but JesterTune helped on the spot.

Lost crackles and pops and rev match. Reset code with Hondata App and Rev match was back, bot lost crackles and pops again the next session out. Jestertuned had me do a Datalog for an entire track session, emailed the log, and he sent me a new tune to flash within 30 minutes. Flashed right on the spot, went out for the next session and car was perfect. Datalogged the session after that, sent it to him when I got home last night, and he sent me another revision this morning. I've had 5 or 6 revisions all for no additional cost. He's adjusted tunes multiple times, before, during and now after track days, to optimize things.

This dude always answers his phone and takes care of his customers!

Honestly, having the Hondata flashpro to check and reset codes, and quickly flash tune updates is just amazing, and Jestertuned just kicks the whole experience up a notch.

Thanks man! you saved the day.

That is what we are here for my friend! Looking forward to your next outing and hoping to meet you in person very soon!

 

[Scrodee]

Another testimonial: Jester was super easy to work with, patient with my requests, and I am very happy with the results!

 

[KneePulse]

I just got my base map through Hondata FlashPro and was wondering if I should get a custom tune with only having a PRL RMM, PRL HVI, and PRL Titanium Inlet Pipe.

 

[JesterTuned]

I just got my base map through Hondata FlashPro and was wondering if I should get a custom tune with only having a PRL RMM, PRL HVI, and PRL Titanium Inlet Pipe.

You should! I offer some really great perks when you tune with me also. Car will perform better and be faster in all aspects without upsetting the car.

 

[Brittania]

I just got my base map through Hondata FlashPro and was wondering if I should get a custom tune with only having a PRL RMM, PRL HVI, and PRL Titanium Inlet Pipe.

Yes you should. Hondata base map feels unrefined, a Jester tune will have your car feeling silky smooth.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

A tune will wake up the car and make quite a bit more power without breaking a sweat. As far as intercooler goes it is very dependent on ambient temps. If you live in a place that is cooler the stock one is decent. I have customer’s tracking their cars with a stock setup and no issues. It does heat soak a bit but nothing too crazy.

Now with a intercooler upgrade temps will tend to be more consistent. These cars are very sensitive to IAT changes and will reduce power when IAT’s in the intake climb. With logging I have seen delta’s of 20 degrees with intercooler upgrades from the ingested air at the intake being 100 degrees F to 80 degrees F.

From a physics standpoint having a larger intercooler will take more time to fill due to increased volume capacity. And what Hondata said is correct it will have a bit more lag but most people in a daily situation will barely notice it. Plus side to this it is actually beneficial to the engine to not build boost down low so quickly. Again from a physics standpoint engines don’t like low rpm’s with high cylinder pressures. It helps with engine longevity moving the powerband to a higher rev range.

In your specific case, if you are not looking for a lot of modding but a nice decent bump in power a tune will net you a gain of about 50whp.

This is my car bone stock with a intercooler upgrade when I was developing my basemap. Stock everything aside from intercooler in the heat soak that is Miami.

Blue stock
Red Hondata OTS map
Green custom tune

I agree with your comments regarding intakes. The biggest restriction is the turbo inlet anyway, so everything else up stream is sized fine (unless you go bigger turbo like you mentioned).

I do think Honda did a terrible job designing the intake tract over the turbo the way they did, and with a giant aluminum heat sink no less. I'd love to get some better heat shielding on the turbo and wrap a titanium pipe over the turbo for the intake to prevent as much heat soak as possible. Even on the street I can tell when the car becomes lethargic when hot. On track, it would only happen down the straights in the upper rev band. I'm curious if the power dip at the top in stock form would improve with heat reflection. I imagine so, given the "gains" some intake systems see.

To clarify your point, your graph there does NOT show turbo lag, it shows the turbo threshold moving. This is a very confusing topic for most people, even car enthusiasts.

Turbo lag = the time it takes to build ANY boost from the time the throttle is opened ANY amount.

Turbo threshold = the rpm at which the turbo spools for max torque/boost.

You can alter turbo threshold a lot more easily than turbo lag. Getting rid of lag is hard. In this car it's not totally horrible, but it's there. It's no NA car with a drive by cable throttle body, but it's also no ej257 subaru or early air cooled Porsche.

Increasing piping size, intercooler size, or changing wastegate actuation can negatively effect turbo lag AND turbo threshold. For a stock based car, the best way to reduce the throttle to turbo lag is to adjust wastegate actuation so the piping post turbo maintains some pressure with throttle pedal 0%, possibly even leaving the throttle body sliiiightly open. This is what Porsche does in their turbo cars now when in s+ mode. You lose some engine braking ability, but you gain a lot of throttle response and dramatically lower the turbo lag.

Jester, I'd be curious if you've seen if there are separate maps for the rev hang function or if it's tied into the main wastegate/boost/throttle maps? My suspicion is rev hang is tied to their lag reduction techniques with the throttle being partially open, so reducing rev hang could make for more turbo lag. I'm curious what you've seen for it stock. It was certainly tied that way on the cayman gts I looked at the maps for, which explains why the rev hang in it was so much worse in s+ mode. (still better than our cars, though).

 

[JesterTuned]

I agree with your comments regarding intakes. The biggest restriction is the turbo inlet anyway, so everything else up stream is sized fine (unless you go bigger turbo like you mentioned).

I do think Honda did a terrible job designing the intake tract over the turbo the way they did, and with a giant aluminum heat sink no less. I'd love to get some better heat shielding on the turbo and wrap a titanium pipe over the turbo for the intake to prevent as much heat soak as possible. Even on the street I can tell when the car becomes lethargic when hot. On track, it would only happen down the straights in the upper rev band. I'm curious if the power dip at the top in stock form would improve with heat reflection. I imagine so, given the "gains" some intake systems see.

To clarify your point, your graph there does NOT show turbo lag, it shows the turbo threshold moving. This is a very confusing topic for most people, even car enthusiasts.

Turbo lag = the time it takes to build ANY boost from the time the throttle is opened ANY amount.

Turbo threshold = the rpm at which the turbo spools for max torque/boost.

You can alter turbo threshold a lot more easily than turbo lag. Getting rid of lag is hard. In this car it's not totally horrible, but it's there. It's no NA car with a drive by cable throttle body, but it's also no ej257 subaru or early air cooled Porsche.

Increasing piping size, intercooler size, or changing wastegate actuation can negatively effect turbo lag AND turbo threshold. For a stock based car, the best way to reduce the throttle to turbo lag is to adjust wastegate actuation so the piping post turbo maintains some pressure with throttle pedal 0%, possibly even leaving the throttle body sliiiightly open. This is what Porsche does in their turbo cars now when in s+ mode. You lose some engine braking ability, but you gain a lot of throttle response and dramatically lower the turbo lag.

Jester, I'd be curious if you've seen if there are separate maps for the rev hang function or if it's tied into the main wastegate/boost/throttle maps? My suspicion is rev hang is tied to their lag reduction techniques with the throttle being partially open, so reducing rev hang could make for more turbo lag. I'm curious what you've seen for it stock. It was certainly tied that way on the cayman gts I looked at the maps for, which explains why the rev hang in it was so much worse in s+ mode. (still better than our cars, though).

On hondata it is just a toggle for the rev hang. But you do have throttle sensitivity tables by torque.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

On hondata it is just a toggle for the rev hang. But you do have throttle sensitivity tables by torque.

What about off throttle wastegate duty and throttle position? Can they be adjusted separately?

Do you tune cobb at all, Btw?

 

[JesterTuned]

What about off throttle wastegate duty and throttle position? Can they be adjusted separately?

Do you tune cobb at all, Btw?

No adjustments to throttle position, and wastegate duty can be adjusted but really this is a torque based system. So boost will vary depending on the ambient conditions to achieve what is programmed.

I used to tune cobb but not anymore and haven’t since 2022.

 

[Tw1stedlog1k]

This thread always opens up more information every time I visit.

Particularly, the difference in rev hang is what's been bothering me most. In sport+ it's almost non-existent, to the point where shifts are quick and smooth. Having to slightly delay the clutch release in sport and comfort messes with my timing. It doesn't bother me too much in comfort because that's my "lazy" setting but I would prefer sport to behave much more like sport+. If it's hard coded into the car then it is what it is but if it's at all possible to be coded out that would be wonderful.

@Victorofhavoc from your experience with this in the Cayman, you're saying reduced rev hang would mean increased turbo lag? Or is it more involved than my simplified understanding?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

This thread always opens up more information every time I visit.

Particularly, the difference in rev hang is what's been bothering me most. In sport+ it's almost non-existent, to the point where shifts are quick and smooth. Having to slightly delay the clutch release in sport and comfort messes with my timing. It doesn't bother me too much in comfort because that's my "lazy" setting but I would prefer sport to behave much more like sport+. If it's hard coded into the car then it is what it is but if it's at all possible to be coded out that would be wonderful.

@Victorofhavoc from your experience with this in the Cayman, you're saying reduced rev hang would mean increased turbo lag? Or is it more involved than my simplified understanding?

Yes in the cayman. In the higher s+ setting it would keep the throttle plate slightly open and the revs would hang longer. In s they would not hang as long, but still would. In s the engine braking was stronger. They did this to get around some of the lag, but you do lose a bit of engine braking as a result.

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