RUNN1N
Senior Member
I agree with this--I have everything I need to do a CQuartz 3.0 application arriving today--$180, easy DIY job, and MUCH better quality product than any dealership will sell you.
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RUNN1N
Senior Member
My salesman tried to sell me on a $999 "ceramic coating" that is essentially CARPRO's Reload product with minimal ceramic content, more intended to maintain a true ceramic coating. Reload is $35/bottle. I suppose the $964 delta accounts for the microfiber towels and elbow grease?
DukeFrisbee
Senior Member
IF you could trust that an experienced tech would perform a careful hand wash, clay and a single stage correction prior to ceramic coating and took wheels off and did them, etc. then $995 would be reasonable. I suspect it gets a run through the automatic car wash and, as you said, a wipe-down with Reload!
RUNN1N
Senior Member
When I was assured the whole ceramic coat process would only take 45 minutes from start to finish (despite the car being right-off-the-truck and filthy), I had enough information to be reasonably certain it’d be nothing worth $999, that’s for sure!
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Lflouie
Senior Member
A word of caution on doing your paint correction or ppf to soon on a brand new car.
Since the ITS is built in the US the car does not experience the usual 4-6 week transportation cycle for offshore cars to arrive at the show room. Paint should not be filmed nor paint corrected until it is hardened and most paint shops and ppf installers suggest 60 days of curing (ideally in a warm environment) before application and paint correction.
I have used both of these products and a cleaner ( approx $120 on AUTO Geek). These are larger bottles, so if you can get a 35 or 50 ml size you can do the entire car and rims for even less $$.
For those that haven't done ceramic coating it is not hard to do, if you mess it up you can easily polish it out so don't be intimidated about the application process for either of these.
The critical element is the paint correction ....just like any paint job it's the prep that makes or breaks the final outcome.
If you aren't experienced in correcting minor imperfections, they are usually pretty easy on a new car, but with today's modern paints which are thinner, softer and less forgiving than paint used on earlier (pre 2015) cars. If this part of the process is concerning, seek out some one that will do a simple overall light paint correction. This is basically an hourly rate kind of job, and shouldn't take more 2-3 hrs on a new car.
If you are going to ppf any sections on the car, do the ppf after the paint correction but before the ceramic coating. Then ceramic coat film and paint.
The ppf patterns (from machine cut patterns) aren't available yet for the type S ( as of today) so until they are, it will require a custom (cut to car) application which is more time consuming and $$$.
No matter which way you go, let the paint harden for 2 months before correction or ppf.
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optronix
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #157
I've heard various things about "de-gassing" the paint. I'm not sure how much of it I believe... but I still have come to the conclusion I don't want a dealer putting anything on the paint of a brand new car.A word of caution on doing your paint correction or ppf to soon on a brand new car.
Since the ITS is built in the US the car does not experience the usual 4-6 week transportation cycle for offshore cars to arrive at the show room. Paint should not be filmed nor paint corrected until it is hardened and most paint shops and ppf installers suggest 60 days of curing (ideally in a warm environment) before application and paint correction.
I have used both of these products and a cleaner ( approx $120 on AUTO Geek). These are larger bottles, so if you can get a 35 or 50 ml size you can do the entire car and rims for even less $$.
For those that haven't done ceramic coating it is not hard to do, if you mess it up you can easily polish it out so don't be intimidated about the application process for either of these.
The critical element is the paint correction ....just like any paint job it's the prep that makes or breaks the final outcome.
If you aren't experienced in correcting minor imperfections, they are usually pretty easy on a new car, but with today's modern paints which are thinner, softer and less forgiving than paint used on earlier (pre 2015) cars. If this part of the process is concerning, seek out some one that will do a simple overall light paint correction. This is basically an hourly rate kind of job, and shouldn't take more 2-3 hrs on a new car.
If you are going to ppf any sections on the car, do the ppf after the paint correction but before the ceramic coating. Then ceramic coat film and paint.
The ppf patterns (from machine cut patterns) aren't available yet for the type S ( as of today) so until they are, it will require a custom (cut to car) application which is more time consuming and $$$.
No matter which way you go, let the paint harden for 2 months before correction or ppf.
I've heard the same as above. "We'll do the ceramic coating while you do your paperwork, it'll be ready by the time you're done!"... there's just no friggin way it's being done right, and I would be 1000 times better off just doing it myself. I don't care if they offered it for free.
That said, the one time I went for it was on a black 718 and the product actually held up really well, and was applied well. There is a warranty for it as well, although I'm not sure what's actually covered.
Still not worth it IMO.
VinnyDaFish
Member
It is unfortunate. I grew up in Glendale in the 70's / 80's and I thought the town was big back then. Used to enjoy a quiet drive through Oak Creek Canyon on the back of my dad's motorcycle and have it all to ourselves. Not quite the case any longer. I hope you can get up to some mountain roads at some point. The car seems to excel on twisty roads so I'm having to dig deep to find countryside roads outside of Dallas to put it through its paces.
m.c.ricks.ITS
Member
Does anyone have any ambient lighting at night in the Type-S? Is it any different than the A-Spec or did they delete it all together?
MickleNoot
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2020
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- 1
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- 63
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- 96
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Car(s)
- (Soon) '24 Integra Type S, '70 RB26-powered 240Z
Another one with the garage homie:
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eculley
Senior Member
- First Name
- Eric
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2023
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- 82
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- 94
- Location
- Austin, Tx
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- I walk.
Another one with the garage homie:
slo_its
Senior Member
I'd love to be able to own a Datsun Z alongside a CTR or ITS. I may be drooling right now. Congrats!Another one with the garage homie:
6-Speedio
Senior Member
I drive my FK8 mostly in R+ mode, going on several years now… I don’t have a single rattle in the car, anywhere. I’m not buying the excuse for the ITS to be rattling. That really sucks.
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optronix
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #164
It depends. The rattle in my 718 comes from the passenger seatbelt. All 3 Boxsters I've had have had the same damn rattle. It's a design flaw... but other than that, no not many rattles... but it's not like they're nonexistent. Congrats that you've had a rattle-free performance car, that's more or less rare to my experience.
Another thing to consider if people are hearing rattles in the ITS, is accessory installation. A surprisingly good YouTube channel I'll post the link to in a sec did a video where they walked through installing a few of the accessories, and they're pretty intrusive. The rear decklid spoiler in particular I could easily see introducing a ton of rattles if not done thoroughly. It's not even an unlikely scenario that some of these dealers got these cars in and rushed them through the accessory installation. Something to think about.
4ourth
Senior Member
I have an appointment in a few weeks to take my type s for its first oil change, and for the local dealer to find a faint buzzing noise I have under acceleration (no accessories installed by dealer). I did check the infotainment and saw that they felt taped the corners like the Civic TSB, so I do feel they are addressing past issues on these models. Every place I’ve been able to inspect from my own accessory installations and hunting for the buzz has been properly installed/tightened. I think the buzz is likely a broken mount/bracket in the engine bay, but we’ll see how the dealer fares. I will say that I’m happy to at least be able to get a nicer Acura loaner with no hassle than a Civic with a lot of hassle from a Honda dealer. Otherwise, fit/fitment and drive to date for my Type S has been excellent.
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