Am I being scammed???

[Fox13007]

Okay so I have 2023 Integra which was rebuilt due to a rear hit (I’m in college and broke please don’t come for me).
My point being is I no longer have the factory warranty even though the engine was never touched. Well recently I’ve been getting an underboost code and my dash lights up like a Christmas tree. I took it to the dealer and they said my turbo was faulty (which they said is an a common Acura problem?)and I paid 1400 to replace it. Well it’s been about a month and the exact thing happened again. The dealer said they think it’s the wiring harness now but to me it sounds more like a boost leak?? I’m not sure I trust them anymore as I already paid to fix what they said was the problem. Should I get a second opinion??
Also as I drive the lights on the dash go off, they only turn on when I first start the car.

Sponsored

 

[KingCollector]

If your warranty is expired - why are you still going to the dealer for repairs?

 

[Integra23]

Ouch $1400 on the factory turbo. I would pull the CEL codes and do some research.
You can purchase a smoke leak checker from Amazon for under $100.

 

[Kamikaze5PDR]

Any other symptoms? Does your engine actually go in limp mode? What other upgrades do you have?
If not, chances are you have a perfectly good car/engine. I would get the codes when going from the relatively cool coast (70ish F) to hot weather and high elevation (1000+ft above sea level, 90ish F). I tried three things to address this, one after the other when I would get a CEL: change from PRL SRI to PRL HVI (less heat soak), upgrade PRL intercooler and charge pipes to full kit 27Won FMIC (cooler intake temps), and lastly I touched up the grounding points in the engine bay with a dremel and added 3 new points (car noticeably idled smoother, more responsive, stopped getting CELs after this mod). I have Hondata Flash Pro to both read/clear CELs and monitor diagnostics and confirm results.

 

[Two Step Performance]

Sounds like they are guessing at fixes, at your expense.

 

[boosted_canoe]

if i had to guess, wastegate actuator starting to seize up or a loose hose causing a boost leak

and, everything feels like a scam these days

 

[StingertimeNC]

Brutal if it turn out to be either one of those things and you paid for a new turbo. Maybe OP can get a partial refund since it didn't fix anything.

 

[jayy_swish]

Wastegate actuator isn’t a separately sold part by Honda, it’s replaced with the turbocharger as an “assembly”. So that should be ruled out. Lose/ripped hose, either a sticky bypass solenoid, ripped bypass valve, intercooler issues. Never seen a harness be an issue unless you have rodent damage, which Honda calls for a harness replacement rather than fixing wires. Kinda leaning towards a sticky solenoid since it sounds intermittent. Which if you follow the Honda diag tree for an underboost if everything test fine (which it would if it was intermittent) then the end result calls for replacing the turbocharger assembly.

 

[Fox13007]

If your warranty is expired - why are you still going to the dealer for repairs?

I honestly just thought they would know more about it since it’s the dealership and also I’m not too sure about a good mechanic.

 

[Fox13007]

Ouch $1400 on the factory turbo. I would pull the CEL codes and do some research.
You can purchase a smoke leak checker from Amazon for under $100.

Yeah they were gonna charge me over 2k but after I mentioned It was pretty expensive they cut the install price in half

 

[Fox13007]

Any other symptoms? Does your engine actually go in limp mode? What other upgrades do you have?
If not, chances are you have a perfectly good car/engine. I would get the codes when going from the relatively cool coast (70ish F) to hot weather and high elevation (1000+ft above sea level, 90ish F). I tried three things to address this, one after the other when I would get a CEL: change from PRL SRI to PRL HVI (less heat soak), upgrade PRL intercooler and charge pipes to full kit 27Won FMIC (cooler intake temps), and lastly I touched up the grounding points in the engine bay with a dremel and added 3 new points (car noticeably idled smoother, more responsive, stopped getting CELs after this mod). I have Hondata Flash Pro to both read/clear CELs and monitor diagnostics and confirm results.

It goes into what I think of as like Granny Limp mode. The car still has normal power but it turns of traction control and disables things like cruise control or lane keep until the check engine turns off.
I also noticed if I turn the car on and off like 5 times the lights also just go away

 

[Fox13007]

Wastegate actuator isn’t a separately sold part by Honda, it’s replaced with the turbocharger as an “assembly”. So that should be ruled out. Lose/ripped hose, either a sticky bypass solenoid, ripped bypass valve, intercooler issues. Never seen a harness be an issue unless you have rodent damage, which Honda calls for a harness replacement rather than fixing wires. Kinda leaning towards a sticky solenoid since it sounds intermittent. Which if you follow the Honda diag tree for an underboost if everything test fine (which it would if it was intermittent) then the end result calls for replacing the turbocharger assembly.

Yeah that’s along the lines of what I was thinking. I hadn’t seen anything about the solenoid though, is there a way I can test the functionality on that??

 

[jayy_swish]

Yeah that’s along the lines of what I was thinking. I hadn’t seen anything about the solenoid though, is there a way I can test the functionality on that??

There is you would need a vacuum/pressure gauge like this to be able to apply pressure and vacuum at the different bypass solenoid ports. You would also need a bi-directional scanner to be able to active it a couple of times to see if you can get it to stick (if it is in fact sticking). Without the scanner you would have to be more tool savvy to be able to either unbolt it or test it there by apply battery and ground to activate the solenoid. But if you aren’t mechanical inclined I’d advise taking it to another dealer/shop for another opinion. A harness or PCM will be the least likely culprit.

 

[reinstated]

Have you tried resetting the ecu? Might help temporarily at least.

Sponsored