ITS DE5 Warped Rear Brakes 10K Miles

[StingertimeNC]

Same (but all around). They are so squeaky lol

Yes, the Jury is still out, but I like their performance. I’m not sure I have them totally bedded in just yet. Also still had some deposits left over from the R5 at the Track.

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[dockleryxk]

Yes, the Jury is still out, but I like their performance. I’m not sure I have them totally bedded in just yet. Also still had some deposits left over from the R5 at the Track.

What was your bedding procedure? My rears weren't for sure, but everything got quieter when I bedded the fronts (rears were on already).

Also, I'm being dramatic. They're not that bad

 

[Underdog]

Same (but all around). They are so squeaky lol

That’s exactly what I don’t want, so thanks for letting me know!

 

[StingertimeNC]

I followed the exact betting advice from paragon for both the R5 and P3 pads. 35 mph to 5 mph medium pressure, 8 to 10 times. Drive the car 45 miles an hour for 7 to 10 minutes. Then three more stops 45 mph to 5 mph, then drive the car for 10 minutes to let the brakes fully cool. Did it out on back road so I could stay off the brakes. It worked like a charm on the R fives. Because of the pad deposits from The R5’s, , the procedure to bed the P3’s didn’t seem to go as well. I need to go out and do it a couple more times to clean off the rotors, then bed the P3’s. It should work once I get them cleaned off. Interestingly, enough, I had the R fives on the car for about three weeks in total, and they actually didn’t produce all that much dust, and they were pretty quiet both before and after the track.

 

[dockleryxk]

@optronix 3k miles

 

[RamVA]

@optronix 3k miles

That's a camber problem, not a tire problem.

 

[dockleryxk]

That's a camber problem, not a tire problem.

How else am I gonna take 15 mph turns at 50?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

How else am I gonna take 15 mph turns at 50?

That's the problem. You have the camber to go 50 in a 15mph turn but you're not doing it often enough, so you're wearing out unevenly.

For anyone looking at tire wear, you might want to get symmetrical tires so you can flip them when the camber starts to wear further on one end, especially if you're doing a lot of highway pulls or hard braking. High torque with a front heavy fwd car is definitely like a 911 for tire wear, just flipped backwards. Ultimately your tire pressure needs to be spot on and you should drive to the alignment of the car. This is not a car you drag race. If you want to be launching it and ripping through 1st and 2nd gear, take out camber for better grip and less inside wear.

Ps4s are technically a 30k tire that typically lasts 20k on sporty cars. It likes some camber but not too much. It also likes higher pressure than you'd think, so the factory specs are really a minimum. It wouldn't be unreasonable to air up before you plan to drive it hard, especially on the fronts. Low pressure and hard driving will wear out the shoulders of this tire very quickly.

 

[StingertimeNC]

speaking of pressures, I think I finally got the fronts dialed in at the track. Was rolling over way too much in the corners. Looks like 41 PSI hot is the sweet spot. 36 psi rear. This was on 275/30 summer tires. Bonus, the car seemed to settle down under heavy braking, once I got the front pressures up high enough. Still so much to learn.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

speaking of pressures, I think I finally got the fronts dialed in at the track. Was rolling over way too much in the corners. Looks like 41 PSI hot is the sweet spot. 36 psi rear. This was on 275/30 summer tires. Bonus, the car seemed to settle down under heavy braking, once I got the front pressures up high enough. Still so much to learn.

I went even higher on the 265, but that's pretty close once you account for sidewall load. Glad to hear it's working out well!

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I remembered today that the rears on this car are solid discs and not vented. That's where some of the heat and faster wear comes from with vsa on.

If you're warping your discs too quickly, and not just pads melting and depositing material you might also consider not engaging the parking brake after hard driving. You don't want your hot pads locking onto the hot rotor and sitting that way. That's what will warp the disc really quickly, especially with a single piece rotor.

Looks like maybe DBA sells some vented rotors for the rear, https://unity-performance.com/products/dba-3000-series-enshield-rear-blank-rotors-fk8-fl5

@Unity Performance , can you confirm those are vented for the rears?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

@optronix 3k miles

Here's mine at 3k. 9/32nds left in front and 9.5 back. One track day with a very rough surface and approximately 120 laps. The wear is even and camber correct for track use. Street use and hwy pulls would need some camber taken out.

And here's a ps4s from another car with 8k mi on it and 7/32 left. You can tell it's a lot cleaner looking because that car doesn't see track time, unless you count my wife ripping it from daycare to her work as track time.

 

[Unity Performance]

I remembered today that the rears on this car are solid discs and not vented. That's where some of the heat and faster wear comes from with vsa on.

If you're warping your discs too quickly, and not just pads melting and depositing material you might also consider not engaging the parking brake after hard driving. You don't want your hot pads locking onto the hot rotor and sitting that way. That's what will warp the disc really quickly, especially with a single piece rotor.

Looks like maybe DBA sells some vented rotors for the rear, https://unity-performance.com/products/dba-3000-series-enshield-rear-blank-rotors-fk8-fl5

@Unity Performance , can you confirm those are vented for the rears?

Hey, they're not vented. Just a stock photo from DBA, but good opportunity for me to unbox some tomorrow and take photos of them.

In regards to the topic, rotors will typically warm if you're engaging the parking brake when theyee really hot, or you're holding the brake for a long time at a red light for example after a very spirited drive

Paragon and Girodisc have 2-piece rotor options; they're not vented but are better at dissipating heat. I have the Paragon 350mm upsized rear rotors on my FK8, and the Paragon P3 Pads have 25k on them with 30% life remaining after 4-6 track days, 2 trips to rail of the dragon, and I'm generally a spirited driver.

The brake pad life with these 2-piece larger rotors far exceeded my expectations

https://unity-performance.com/searc...levance&q=2-piece+rotors&options[prefix]=last

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Hey, they're not vented. Just a stock photo from DBA, but good opportunity for me to unbox some tomorrow and take photos of them.

In regards to the topic, rotors will typically warm if you're engaging the parking brake when theyee really hot, or you're holding the brake for a long time at a red light for example after a very spirited drive

Paragon and Girodisc have 2-piece rotor options; they're not vented but are better at dissipating heat. I have the Paragon 350mm upsized rear rotors on my FK8, and the Paragon P3 Pads have 25k on them with 30% life remaining after 4-6 track days, 2 trips to rail of the dragon, and I'm generally a spirited driver.

The brake pad life with these 2-piece larger rotors far exceeded my expectations

https://unity-performance.com/search?filter.p.vendor=Girodisc&filter.p.vendor=Paragon+Performance&sort_by=relevance&q=2-piece+rotors&options[prefix]=last

Thank you for the feedback.

Girodisc makes great rotors.

 

[dockleryxk]

That's the problem. You have the camber to go 50 in a 15mph turn but you're not doing it often enough, so you're wearing out unevenly.

For anyone looking at tire wear, you might want to get symmetrical tires so you can flip them when the camber starts to wear further on one end, especially if you're doing a lot of highway pulls or hard braking. High torque with a front heavy fwd car is definitely like a 911 for tire wear, just flipped backwards. Ultimately your tire pressure needs to be spot on and you should drive to the alignment of the car. This is not a car you drag race. If you want to be launching it and ripping through 1st and 2nd gear, take out camber for better grip and less inside wear.

Ps4s are technically a 30k tire that typically lasts 20k on sporty cars. It likes some camber but not too much. It also likes higher pressure than you'd think, so the factory specs are really a minimum. It wouldn't be unreasonable to air up before you plan to drive it hard, especially on the fronts. Low pressure and hard driving will wear out the shoulders of this tire very quickly.

That's good to know. I've definitely been experimenting with tire pressure lately. Sounds like I'm too low. On the 275/35/R18 tires in my pics, I was running around 34 PSI front and 31 PSI rear (cold). Sounds like that might be a tad low.

Thanks for the info! I'll try some higher pressures when it's time for summer tires again.

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