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Type S RV6 Rear Sway Bar Settings

LunaticSM

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Anyone else have experience with the rv6? I'm trying to decide if I should get one with the end links but am concerned about reports of clunking noises from it. Is it fine to just use the stock end links? How much stiffer is the lightest setting than stock?
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Hind

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I just installed mine. No rattles or clanks and I ordered them with the links. I'm using the middle setting. Headed to the track in a month...

Seems nice, but boy was it a pita to install.
 

optronix

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I just installed mine. No rattles or clanks and I ordered them with the links. I'm using the middle setting. Headed to the track in a month...

Seems nice, but boy was it a pita to install.
Curious to hear your impressions. Did you take the car to the same track on stock suspension so you have a basis of comparison?

Rear sway is supposed to be an easy install...
 

Hind

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Curious to hear your impressions. Did you take the car to the same track on stock suspension so you have a basis of comparison?

Rear sway is supposed to be an easy install...
This will be my first time with this car, so I won't have a before-and-after opinion, unfortunately.

I could install them quicker now, but getting the end links back into the lower control arms and lining up the holes is what was terrible. I had to use a two-jack method recommended by this video.
 

StingertimeNC

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I had the same problem when getting mine back together. If I remember correctly it was a beast. Then, when we got load back on the wheels, the sway was slightly twisted, so we loosened up the subframe bracket bolts and the bar settled itself. Then we torqued the brackets back down and all good. We had to put it on the alignment rack and raise it up, so we could work under it while loaded, to get it all squared away.
 

Victorofhavoc

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I had the same problem when getting mine back together. If I remember correctly it was a beast. Then, when we got load back on the wheels, the sway was slightly twisted, so we loosened up the subframe bracket bolts and the bar settled itself. Then we torqued the brackets back down and all good. We had to put it on the alignment rack and raise it up, so we could work under it while loaded, to get it all squared away.
Yes, this is correct.

A typical sway bar with the car's weight on all 4 wheels should be under zero preload. The final torque down for the bolts should occur with weight on the wheels.

Yes you can tune preload with bars and adjustable endlinks, but unless you know what you're looking for specifically, it's not worth the effort.

I'm curious as well to see what people's results with a rear bar are. I found this car to be pretty neutral at higher speeds to very oversteer prone at lower speeds. If you've lowered your car or dramatically increased front camber without ability to adjust rear camber, I bet the rear bar would be helpful. With primarily stock alignment and height, it would be nice to have a bar that can adjust from 25% softer to 25% stiffer.
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