Oh it is. In all there are 5 sessions. 25 minutes each though they let us go 30 on the 4th. It’s a 4 mile track so you’re putting the car through 120-150 miles of a beating. The brakes surprised me honestly, very little fade if any. But I did upgrade the fluid, though stock pads. The car is light as you know, so it hangs in there. But yeah, a lot of 120+ mph to 60 braking zones, never lost confidence in the brakes. I will say, as I did in my other post, the pedal position sucks for heel toe so I went to auto rev in the second half since I was missing a lot of optimal downshifts and turn ins. A bit of a brag, I beat the type Rs there by a good 6-10 seconds. Nice little win for us ITS guys.Road America looks like absolute hell on brakes!
Sold me with easier. And pretty sure a spoon sticker adds more hp over the PRL one.
“He’s running 3 Honda civics with spoon engines!”
Yes! I just remember about the sprint filter after I started shopping and saw the 260 bucks for spoon….I can write spoon in sharpie for that priceLOL, if you don't need the Spoon logo, get a Sprint per above. Same filter, half the price. I was very hesitant when people said it was a lot louder than stock, but it's true! At least I can certainly hear the recirculating valve better than before. Am guessing it's magnified as Sport+ likely pipes some of that in as audio.
Where can you get the Sprint air filter? What is the P/N? I've searched a bit, and not luck finding a filter for the ITS!LOL, if you don't need the Spoon logo, get a Sprint per above. Same filter, half the price. I was very hesitant when people said it was a lot louder than stock, but it's true! At least I can certainly hear the recirculating valve better than before. Am guessing it's magnified as Sport+ likely pipes some of that in as audio.
https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/products/honda/20-type-r-fl5/34732Where can you get the Sprint air filter? What is the P/N? I've searched a bit, and not luck finding a filter for the ITS!
Thanks! Now, will try to find this in Canada!https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/products/honda/20-type-r-fl5/34732
https://www.sprintfilter.net/automo...037-air-filter-for-demanding-conditions/34733
https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/products/honda/20-type-r-fl5-p08-f1-85-air-filter/34734
P1177S - the standard one
Other performance options
P1177S-WP
P1177S F1-85
I'll try to remember to do pics & video. I've always meant to with past projects & never have. I've been putting this due to severe lack of time & needing to build my owns ramps also. My plan is remove both, turbo blanket, downpipe with blanket, & front pipe. Going to wait on the intercooler install until charge pipes are released next month & I'm trying a custom fog light install with Diode Dynamics in the front corners behind the diamond grill & wanting to do it all at once. Still considering having someone else do the rigid collars & RMM though.Installed the TSP downpipe yesterday. Was worried about studs sheering but it came out no issue. Will say most instructions online miss some key steps. So for others, I ended up removing the front plastic cover between the bumper and the oil filter panel and dropping the support beam to get the DP out from underneath. Some guides show doing it from above, that seemed impossible. On ramps, there was plenty of room to drop it then put in the new one from below. Also, this is dumb, but the DP has 2 support brackets at the bottom, you have to unbolt it there, many instructions just skip that step. For the O2 sensors, the sensor side is locked into a bracket, so you need to pull from the harness side to unclip, then remove sensor side from bracket. Overall, it's not hard, but plan out a lot more time than you think for the process. 95 degree heat didn't help.
No CEL and Sport + and Sport are a little more obnoxious, but not overly so. Comfort is still silent, no drone in any mode. Seems to pull a little harder now. Best part, looks totally stock with the black coating and OEM heat shields.
If you are doing the front pipe yourself, do the RMM at the same time, it's right there and it's "only 2 bolts." Going to put mine in (PRL) when I do the front pipe. Technically, you can do it with the FP in place, but it's way easier to access without it there. See my other post on the FP though, it's not as easy as they make it out to be as dropping the plastic tray is like 90% of the work and no one seems to mention it. Also, be warned, doing all that at once might be a lot unless you got the time for it. That was my plan too, but ended up splitting it up to be more manageable.I'll try to remember to do pics & video. I've always meant to with past projects & never have. I've been putting this due to severe lack of time & needing to build my owns ramps also. My plan is remove both, turbo blanket, downpipe with blanket, & front pipe. Going to wait on the intercooler install until charge pipes are released next month & I'm trying a custom fog light install with Diode Dynamics in the front corners behind the diamond grill & wanting to do it all at once. Still considering having someone else do the rigid collars & RMM though.
Thanks for the heads up on this!!
I’ll get my friend who will have it on a lift install them and do an alignment afterwards and I’ll ask him to take some pics when he is installing the collars.Please take some installation photos of the rigid collars, this is the mod I’m very much looking forward to thanks!
When you get a chance, post your videos here: https://www.integraforums.com/forum...und-clips-thread-including-aftermarket.51326/Installed the TSP downpipe yesterday. Was worried about studs sheering but it came out no issue. Will say most instructions online miss some key steps. So for others, I ended up removing the front plastic cover between the bumper and the oil filter panel and dropping the support beam to get the DP out from underneath. Some guides show doing it from above, that seemed impossible. On ramps, there was plenty of room to drop it then put in the new one from below. Also, this is dumb, but the DP has 2 support brackets at the bottom, you have to unbolt it there, many instructions just skip that step. For the O2 sensors, the sensor side is locked into a bracket, so you need to pull from the harness side to unclip, then remove sensor side from bracket. Overall, it's not hard, but plan out a lot more time than you think for the process. 95 degree heat didn't help.
No CEL and Sport + and Sport are a little more obnoxious, but not overly so. Comfort is still silent, no drone in any mode. Seems to pull a little harder now. Best part, looks totally stock with the black coating and OEM heat shields.
I got mine man! My first mod on the ITS. Nothing fancy, but it definitively looks better than putting the phone in the drink holder. Thank you so much for showing us yours.Here's my phone holder solution. I got this magnetic phone holder from Temu for like $7 but shipping took about two weeks. Amazon sells a slightly nicer quality one made by BaseUS for around $20. I like it because it's minimal and also bendable. If you're an iPhone user, the magnets are strong. I'm using a Pro Max in the photo for reference.
For the charging cable, I got the ones from MagTame (also on Amazon). They coil up magnetically so they don't dangle unnecessarily everywhere. It also eliminates the need for a cable organizer. Cable quality is really nice too.
Did you mean how does the suede center console look like with the red arm rest? I still don’t have mine installed. Next mod for sure.How’s it look with the red arm rest?
What is the part num?Dropped in the sprint filter. The Texas Madness autoworks location is right down the road from me so just went and picked it up. Good people over there very nice helpful team. Once I go for a drive I’ll let ya know how much “faster” she is .