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optronix

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Haze usually means excess product. You probably just didn't move fast enough to buff or used too much product. You can either polish to level it out or try to apply another coat and move to buffing much faster.

It happens with ceramic coatings, especially when you've got a pattern down that works and then something out of your control changes, like higher pressure, hotter day, or more humid day. I had a bottle that spilled slightly so some evap loss and then I also applied it in 90 degree heat with 60% humidity. It was the Adam's top tier graphene "advanced" which already flashes faster. It basically turned into super glue in 20 seconds. By 45 seconds it was solid.
I was concerned about the humidity, that has to be it.

I'll try another layer this weekend, it's supposed to be perfect weather anyway.

I did take a few pics in my shady driveway this evening. I can't see any haze at all in these photos, and clearly the car looks fantastic. (I also got my dent "fixed")

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Wolfman

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The plastic pieces come prepainted and the metal pieces come primed from what I've seen.

These fenders are stupid cheap, though. I've found a few oem sources for less than 200$, which you could have your local dealer price match. Raw primed panel should be pretty cheap to have painted since there's virtually no prep work. If you have a pearl finish, it will never look 100% matched. They can get 99% close, and most people won't notice, but if you have a sharp eye, you're better off having a custom paint shop take their time blending. The average body shop will not be able to do it perfectly, despite any claims.

I think there are a few online dealers of "prepainted oem parts" which you can purchase. They like to charge about 500$ per panel in addition to cost of the panel. I've seen them but personally have no experience using them.
Thanks I figured. With the car being only a few months old I am just not thrilled to blend the door, hood, and bumper :/… but I think I’m SOL and need to do it.
 

myhdnromance

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I saw a fender on eBay not long ago but not sure what side you need. The one side was pretty fubar

My current situation.

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myhdnromance

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Noticeable improvement?
I haven't taken her out of the garage yet since its been raining here, but tapping around inside the car it seems to have cut down on the hollow sounds :)

Correction post drive. Huge difference. Not as tin can sounding from the exhaust in the rear….added picture where I stopped and placed everything at 4 am

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PrecordFK7

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First post on this thread so I'll post a bunch of stuff done in the past month+, just put the Spoon Bump Steer (roll center adjusters) and rear A/C vents in the car. Previously had the PowerFlex Antilift Kit installed and wasn't able to find anyone that's installed an Antilift Kit on the FL5 or DE5 so far. Things changed from the FK8/10th Gens and the subframe has to be dropped to remove the lower control arm to install the ALK.

Also, just finished up installing the Full-Race HPFP, Hondata 1530cc Injectors, CANFlex, PTFE Lines, Radium Fuel Filter and pressure gauge, JSR ported Intake Manifold, ported throttle body, ported turbo outlet pipe, and finished with a custom Jester Tune.

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